Fix for stinky helmet lining?....
#1
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After 3 years the lining of my Bell M3 helmet is starting to stink. Short of replacing the lining anyone have a fix. Can you wash or dry clean the linings?
Thanks in advance....
Thanks in advance....
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When it gets hot out, I like to wear my balaclavas, even just for track days. They dry quickly, and keep the helmet liner from getting wet. I keep a few around. After many years, my helmets still smell like helmets, not like old socks.
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
When it gets hot out, I like to wear my balaclavas, even just for track days. They dry quickly, and keep the helmet liner from getting wet. I keep a few around. After many years, my helmets still smell like helmets, not like old socks.
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I have used this technique a couple times with good results.
Get a large bucket or two of warm water, dip the helmet a couple times and then use some baking soda to clean the lining. Keep dipping it to rinse and change water a couple times during the process. Place helmet over a fan or vent to dry.
Get a large bucket or two of warm water, dip the helmet a couple times and then use some baking soda to clean the lining. Keep dipping it to rinse and change water a couple times during the process. Place helmet over a fan or vent to dry.
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No radio, I washed with shampoo. filled it partially with water and a bit of shampoo then scrubbed it pretty good. With the radio set up, it is just Febreeze.
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+1 on the balaclavas. I use Sparco non-flame resistant ones for DE's (I forget the name of the material) and thay are great. Absorbent, dry quickly, perfect. And once every season, I Febreeze the helmets as well.
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Originally Posted by Veloce Raptor
+1 on the balaclavas. I use Sparco non-flame resistant ones for DE's (I forget the name of the material) and thay are great. Absorbent, dry quickly, perfect. And once every season, I Febreeze the helmets as well.
http://www.sparcousa.com/pkarting_acc.asp?id=465
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior
She kept talking about a dedicated track car during the ride home.
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Originally Posted by ltc
Sparco CoolMax for karting?
http://www.sparcousa.com/pkarting_acc.asp?id=465
http://www.sparcousa.com/pkarting_acc.asp?id=465
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Bell sells a couple of spray products, one is called 'Helmet Fresh" and the other is "Helmet Fresh Cleaner". I find that using them regularly after events seems to keep the helmet fresh, and I sweat like a rented mule just getting ready to go on the track.
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From Stand21.fr:
For what it's worth - the padding in the Stand 21 helmets can be easily removed. But I can't see why this wouldn't work with the padding in other brands of helmets as long as you rinse well afterwards to get rid of the soap.
HELMETS:
1. Shells:
Use auto polish or glass cleaners with a soft cloth.
Do not use any solvent as it will harm the finishing and the composite.
2. Visors:
Blue blocker and silver visors must only be washed with water.
The other visors can be cleaned with glass cleaner and soft cloth.
Never use any solvent or auto polish to clean your visor.
When you fit new visors, put some lubricant without solvent on joints and pivot kits.
3. Padding:
Can be washed in soapy water at 30°C/86°F.
If a piece becomes unglued, use neoprene contact cement.
If a rubber joint becomes unglued, it can be refitted with cyanoacrylat glue.
1. Shells:
Use auto polish or glass cleaners with a soft cloth.
Do not use any solvent as it will harm the finishing and the composite.
2. Visors:
Blue blocker and silver visors must only be washed with water.
The other visors can be cleaned with glass cleaner and soft cloth.
Never use any solvent or auto polish to clean your visor.
When you fit new visors, put some lubricant without solvent on joints and pivot kits.
3. Padding:
Can be washed in soapy water at 30°C/86°F.
If a piece becomes unglued, use neoprene contact cement.
If a rubber joint becomes unglued, it can be refitted with cyanoacrylat glue.