Mike in Chi

Brought home a year old, very slightly used, 22' enclosed Haulmark trailer yesterday. It's the base model.

It's aluminum-skinned, white, with chrome corners, stoneguard, dome lights, ceiling vent, D-rings.

The interior is basically a plywood box right now.

Inside I'm thinking of adding a flush lock handle on the side door, two tire racks, overhead and base cabinents with work counter at the head of the trailer. I'm looking at sealing and painting the interior, using gritty deck paint on the floor. I may put down 2x8s on the floor so the car doors to clear the wheel arches.

I'm considering an awning as next year's addition.

Am I missing anything? Anything experience has taught you is a must have?

Thanks in advance.

BTW, after taking 10 minutes to back it into the side drive, I walked in and my wife said "now it looks like the Clampetts live here."

Ahhh racing, the ultimate test of a man. And a marriage.

Adam Richman

Hey Mike in Chi, is it insulated? My buddy added the insulation and heater/AC and its quite a nice place to crash in at the track. We have had 3 air mattresses in there at a time. I would also warn you on the tiles (if you end up going that route opposed to epoxy paint) that if you spill fuel on them, they can peel up (badly). I have the 2x10s on my trailer (open trailer) for similar reasons as you mention but would suggest that it might impede your ability to comfortably sleep in the trailer (mattress or sleeping bag on a 2x8 would suck) and since its enclosed, you can leave the window down and climb out that way.

I have seen a couple tire rack ideas that seem nice - running them across the front of the trailer or down one side. Both seem more than adequate. What we did (my co-driver told me this was what they did when he crewed for a Lotus team about 10 years ago) in my garage was get 3/8" dia. mild steel dowels and cut it into 9" lengths. Welded these (in a slightly upward angle) to 1/8" steel stock spaced every 26" (3 per flat piece starting about 13" from the bottom) and then predrilled the 1/8" flat steel every 8 to 10 inches. Then I mounted these to my wall with screws in the studs 26"+ (so 32" in effect) off-center. Then just hang the tires on them facing out - it saves a lot of room and they are silly easy to store/remove this way (you could prolly just attach a bungee from top dowel to bottom to make sure they don't come off but I honestly don't think they would unless you hit something). Another option to the bungee would be to fabricate something larger than the bore of the wheel to place on the dowel (perhaps at the ends) that you can synch up.

FWIW and congratulations. I am envious!

Mike in Chi

Thanks for the thoughts, Adam.

I don't think it's insulated. What I may do is see how this season goes, then go that route later.

However, I'm not sure sleeping in there would work (no matter how the floor is configured) as there is only the top vent, and no screen on the side door.

I suppose you get to the point where all the additions equal a more expensive trailer. Wells and Featherlite have race dedicated ones, but they are in the mid teens -- as much as the race car cost!

I think I'm visualizing your tire rack correctly. Sounds beautifully simple.

Adam Richman

Yeah, the Heater/AC replaces the vent atop the trailer and they freaking rock (I was shocked how cold it was in there at Kershaw, SC in August).

I need to get some pics of the tire-rack wall - it really was an ingenious idea (as I said, it wasn't mine) and you'd prolly only loose the same wall space that your wheel humps take up anyway (so effectively only a loss standing up). If I break down and snap off some pics of the car (just got it repainted) then I will definately get some of the garage and post.

Mike in Chi

Yeah, I'd like to see it adam.

I'll look into the cost of air.

Not only is racing expensive, it's really expensive to go racing in comfort.

MJHanna

Load the car in the trailer before you start to add cabinets etc. If you have a 22 ft Box your probably Ok. Its just depends on the length inside. My trailer is a 20 ft box =24ft trailer. I have room for some alum racks up front but if I put cabinets in I don’t think I could open the cabinet doors without moving the car, because of where the car ends up for correct weight distribution.

Karl S

Mike,

You may also want to consider adding 110v connection. This will allow you to put in some overhead fluorescent lights and some 110v plugs so you can hook up a compressor, fan, portable heater, TV, etc while at the track. You may also want to consider a winch, they are very handy for those really bad days when you can't drive the car onto the trailer under it's own power.

Karl

PMS993

Mike;

My two cents worth. Be sure to evaluate everything you add in reference to weight. The trailer, the car and all the stuff. Do you have a tow vehicle that can handle the weight? Don't forget to think about load leveling devices and anti-sway arms. A good site for these are <a href="http://www.hitches-forless.com/" target="_blank">http://www.hitches-forless.com/</a> There also you can make sure your hitch has the weight rating for your trailer gross weight.

Also, if you add A/C, in nearly all situations, this is fine if you have a generator as well. My trailer is 28 ft and there is space for the generator. But, the A/C and the generator are heavy. So is a Nitrogen bottle. Nice option but, heavy.

If you have room, add cabinets. You can secure them to walls using an "E" track system. I can't say enough about "E" track. Again, go to this site: <a href="http://www.trailer-parts-forless.com/trailerparts_forless/etrack.htm" target="_blank">http://www.trailer-parts-forless.com/trailerparts_forless/etrack.htm</a>
They have pictures and supplies for nearly every possibility.

Finally, once you have your trailer complete, you will wonder why you didn't buy a bigger one.

Mike in Chi

thanks guys.

Mac

thanks for the tip on e-track. I'm going to do that.

My SUV can handle 7500 lbs. But I will max it out rather quickly if I get into too much else, so AC may be out of the question.

I already have a leveling system and sway control devices.

Karl

110v would be a great convenience. I wonder if I get to the point where it would be better to trade up to a trailer that has all that from the factory.

A winch seems like a good thing, plus I don't have to crawl out the window.

MJ

the distribution should be 10% of the total at the hitch right. According to the dealer I bought it from, I do have room for cabinents and the car. He trailers a 930, so I figure he knows what he's talking about.

PhilW

Mike I believe the 944 is longer than a 911 so the cabinets may not work.

Get a 5 lb or greater fire extinguisher and mount it near the cargo door and reflective triangles for a breakdown on the road.

Good Luck

Phil White

Mike in Chi

thanks Phil. Good idea for an extinguisher, and breakdown supplies.

The dealer suggesting getting a 4x4 block cut with an angle at one end to use as a poor man's jack if I ever have to change one of the trailer's four tires.

Overall length is 170" on the 944S2 (you're right a 993 is 168"). So I have 8 feet to work with for tie-downs, cabinents and misc. stuff to carry.

clubrcr

I have a 24' trailer. I have A/C, a generator, winch, e-track, tire racks, extra cabinets and a built in work bench. These all come in handy.

Two things; don't forget about a good tool box. You can get one with cabinets and mount it like you would a cabinet. Also when shopping for a generator and/or A/C, make several telephone calls to your RV dealerships or RV salvage yards. These places might have a used A/C or generator from a wrecked RV. These units are usually reconditioned and will save you tons of money from the new.

My generator and A/C came from a RV store like this and is wonderful. I even had them install it, and still saved over what a new unit would have cost!

You got to save money where you can, racing ain't cheap!

Jim Newman
01 GT3 Cup
92 US Carrera Cup
99 996
88 Rothmans Turbo Cup (sold but still at the house)

Adam Richman

Mike in Chi, here's some pics I took today of the racks (sorry for the picture quality).

<img src="http://www.ipsolve.com/images/TireRackFull.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.ipsolve.com/images/TireRackHalfl.jpg" alt=" - " />

Mike in Chi

Jim

Really good idea about buying used or salvage from an RV dealer. thanks.

Adam

Cool rack -- It's just the way I pictured it based on your description. Thanks for posting the pix.

Mike