MarkPcar

So, I bought Analog Mike's 996 Cup car: http://www.analogman.com/911/gt3/

YEAH!!!!!

I need some stuff & info. Does anyone have good used...

Wand
32 MM socket

Where do you get the anti sieze for the wheel nuts?

What tire pressures on the Michelin's? I expect cool temps - high 40's to mid 50's for my first weekend.

The car should be here in the next two days. Any special procedures for starting the car?

Thanks

Barfly

Lucky bastard. Enjoy! I was keeping an eye on that car, but I am still about a year away from a cup purchase (too soon for the new wife).

mooty

nice, congrats.

jrgordonsenior

Congratulations, that should be a great car.

Wands came with the car but: http://www.cupcarsolutions.com/wands.htm

32 mm socket from Snap-On or Sears. The black ones for torque wrenches. It you're using wheel hoops you will need a short 3 or 4 inch extension to get to the center lock. The extensions should be black too. I don't know anyone who uses anti-seize on their center locks....

You will however, need a long torque wrench from Snap-On or someone else to torque that center lock to 350 lbs. I've also found that my cordless, 18v Snap-On impact wrench will not loose same center lock after it's been torqued/ driven, though others have had better luck. A pneumatic wrench is mandatory back-up.

As for tire pressures, Michellin wants 30 hot. Most of my friends like it around 29/29 hot. Are you planning on using Nitrogen? It will help in stabilzing your pressures at temp, and give you the pressure (375 or so) necessary to raise your air jacks. I would start pressuers at 23f/22r cold depending on the configuration of the track. If mostly circular in one direcetion, you will see your outside rear heatup considerably more. Since I'm assuming you will be taking it easy for a few days, these temps should get you started. After you get up to speed you may want to start a little lower but obviously get them up to temp before driving hard.

The car should start with a little gas. Don't rev it up when cold or anytime for that matter. It should idle easily around 1800 RPM after a few seconds or so. You may need to help it slightly until then. I was reving it up in the pits at Laguna when I believe it was Eric from Porsche Motorsports came up to me and said it wasn't good for the valve train to do that. He said save it for the track!

PS: turn down the power(red switch on the center dash with plastic cover) when you're parking it for a length of time. It saves the battery and the ECU....

There's lot's to learn about Cups and lots of very experienced help here on this forum....

Geoffrey

The black sockets are hardened and are for impact wrenches, but can also be used with torque wrenches. Standard chrome will work for torque wrenches but you won't want to use them with an impact such as a cordless. Be sure to use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point socket on the centerlock nut because the 12pt grab only a small part of each surface and will damage them eventually. Porsche specifies anit-sieze on the center screw nut and stresses cleanliness ie don't put the nut down on the ground when changing the wheels.

You can buy the air jack lance (wand) from PMNA, www.cupcarsolutions.com, and the Krontec wand from AP racing will also fit and is less expensive.

An excellent 3/4 torque wrench can be purchased from SK tools for about $350 and is in my opinion better than the Snap on one which is double in price. Get a 4" extension to use with the tie down hoops and to help give more clearance around the wheel arch.

The latest Snap on 18v cordless is a great asset and is able to loosen the center screw nut once it has been torqued and driven. The earlier model wasn't always able to. I would still knock them loose with the torque wrench first since I don't think the pounding of the impact wrench is very good for the center screw itself.

Good advice on the tires and cold starting. The engines have titanium rods and the engine needs to be warm before stressing the engine, especially the earlier ones which have titanium rod bolts.

ltc

You can also buy the airwand for $250 from HRPWorld (not OEM, but I've had it for a couple of years and it works just fine):
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

Glen

I may have a wand, will check.

jrgordonsenior

Geoffrey's right, I meant impact wrench for the black sockets and extensions. Hey it was 4 am here....
Wish I knew about the SK torque wrench back then...

kev

Congrats, you are going to love your car.

Only thing I would add to all the good advice is that the motor does not need to run for very long once started, it will overheat if you let it idle too long.

analogmike

Hey Mark!!!

Was wondering if you got the car yet, sorry I have been too busy with trade shows and the Sebring race to contact you.

30 lbs hot is good, don't go over, Michelin says they are OK over 30 but they are terrible. If it were a race, I would start out at about 21 lbs, but your 1st few times out, if you have a pit crew, start in the mid 20s, take a few laps, and come in every now and then for bleeding them down. That will help you get used to the car and tires better.

BE CAREFUL ON THE WARMUP LAP!!! THose Michelins are TREACHEROUS when cold, unlike Hoosiers which are pretty darn good (they really impressed me at Sebring on my 1st lap after being used to the Michelins).

Starting the car is very easy but it likes to get some throttle when you start it, then rev it a little to clear the plugs and it should idle fine at 2K (not too long or it will overheat).

Keep the revs over 4K on the track or it will buck and you will think it's not running well. No need to bring it to redline in the higher gears (engine will last longer if you don't rev it so high).

Have fun!!!

Geoffrey

Yea, Porsche could have done a little better with the ECU mapping.

Mark Anderson

I have a new torque wrench for $200 if you need one.

MarkPcar

Guys, Thanks all for the input. I bought two small nitrogen tanks, one for the air jacks and the other for an impact gun.

Is the right socket? http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

I'm not clear - will I need an extension with this socket?

Mike, did the car get shipped with tie down hoops?

I've tried for a couple of days to reach Cup Car Solutions with no return call. Anyone have better contact info?? Also, do you all use jack stands like they sell?

RE set-up and tires. Does switching from Michelins to Hoosiers require that the car has a different set-up? I've heard that it does but I wiould like to here input from others. I 'think' more guys out west here run the Hoosiers.

Thanks again for the newbie help.

4 Kurves

You'll need a 6" extension if you want to use the tie down hoops.

CDOC now sells the safety jack stands - very high quality and very high price but they will keep the car off your head. Never crawl under the car when it's up on the air jacks without some kind of safety stand.

CDOC stands: Jack Stands


Most CUP drivers on the west coast - at least in the POC which is the majority use either Michelin (about $1800 plus shipping) or Yokohama. The Michelins are what Porsche recomends for the dry and the Yoko have been a good back up and there is good track support at POC events (none from Michelin). Until this year you had to run a slightly smaller (230) or slight larger (250) front tire which caused some problems depending upon set up but they have just come out with the correct size front in reponse to the demand. Unsure hwo supply will be this year because this is now the spec tire for the new Compenent Motorsports Yokohama Drivers Cup series (for 996/997 Cups).

I can't judge how the Yoko's work against the Michelins as I haven't tried them yet but I can tell you that there are racers down here in SoCal going plenty fast on them.

I have tried the Hoosiers and IMHO they are crap compared to the Michelins. They are cheaper though. I think the Hoosiers are still the spec for Grand-Am GT but that doesn't make them good. Just my opinion though...

Geoffrey

I think you'll want to continue to run a tire that has a 680 profile which will help with the loading of the tire. The Hoosier is only available in a 30 profile (like a 645) and will be a smaller diameter tire. You'll find the taller tires a better match for the Cup car.

Buy a 3/4 in drive socket, not a 1/2 inch. Buy a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch adapter to use with your impact gun. So, no, that is not the socket you want. Yes, you need an extension, it makes life easier.