MDL

John,

Here is the diagram I used as a guide

http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/p...pupright6.html

I mounted everything EXACTLY as Simpson suggested. After all they did the engineering. The subs do float on the mounts and when my seat is in driving position everything is within spec.



Dan.

RedlineMan

Ahhhh...

So, I gather that you are fairly short? The next thing that the Simpson sheet makes me wonder about is who has thighs that are 8-12" apart, or seat holes that wide either? For counterpoint, Schroth recommends 4" apart.

MDL

LOL, I'm 6' tall, I just like to sit close to the wheel. For me, it's very comfortable. My sub straps fit fine in that configuration as well.

Phokaioglaukos

I posted my query to Donna, the technical person for PCA club racing. Here is the reply:

I am not aware of any arrangement between PCA and Schroth that would allow the belts to be attached to the seat. You must attach sub belts to a reinforced mounting point on the floor. For the sub belts, this requires using a large backing washer on the underside of the floorpan so the bolt cannot pull through. You need to drill the floorpan for the mounting bolts in the appropriate location.

The GT3 seats that I have seen are one-piece and have the appropriate holes for the harness straps and they are legal for PCA Club Racing. They are also leather, which means they certainly wouldn’t be my first choice for a race seat. Too slippery. So, the concept that Porsche and Schroth have “cooperated” on this mounting technique for this seat FOR RACING APPLICATIONS is doubtful. There are people who put harnesses in their street cars, and this might be perfectly OK for that.

Regards,

Donna

So, I guess I punch holes in my GT3 to attach belts that are not very adjustable in order to club race or I keep this car on the street and in DE.

kurt M

My first thought is that if you are worried about some holes for eye bolts for a good harness setup then the other posibilities that might present during a CR might be more of a problem. I do get your point.

Some time ago BK started making a bracket that let you use the existing inboard stock belt mount for an aftermarket lap belt. The stock inboard lap belt point was on the seat itself. I don't think this device was CR legal but it did show up ad DEs.

RedlineMan

Hmmm...

6-point tested with an underseat sub bar is 6-point tested. I fail to see how the testing for racing or street safety is any different? If it works, it works. Be that as it may, this is an answer by an organization looking for someone else to say it is safe. Common sense does not enter in, nor really even have a place in the discussion. And so, a "flawed" mounting method lives on despite its patently obvious shortcomings. To say that the bolts won't pull through is sort of missing the point.

"After his wreck, the floor came up and squished him against the roof and broke his neck!!"

Yeh... but the sub bolts didn't pull through."

Par for the course in this day and age.
(Frustrated with the general state of affairs more than PCA)

Phokaioglaukos

John, you're just not imagining sufficiently sized backing washers. Think dinner plates or LP albums, for us oldsters.

jester911

I am still working on a solution for my car regarding tunnel side lap belt mount and the sub belt mount as well.
What I am considering doing is using a large flat plate, possibly L shaped to incorporate all three points into one plate. Also using some type of steel angle or channel to reinforce the plate and possibly tie into stronger reinforced areas of the car. This is in a 911 but it seems it would work in others as well.

I will post what I come up with to bounce off of you guys and see what you think.

Noel

This is exactly how I mounted mine, but I bolted mine to the factory seat rails and to the mounts used to attach my Momo Cup seats. I then simply wrapped the belt around the bar stock (Square) similar to how the shoulder belts are attached to the rollbar.

Thoughts?

RedlineMan

Hey;

Assuming everyrthing is solid, sound, and properly positioned, you should be fine. You won't have any trouble with DE in any event, as there are no real scriptures for how the mouting must be done.

jester911

This is a crude diagram of what I am thinking for a solution. The plate could be welded to the bottom of the sill and to the edge of the tunnel. If needed you could do this to passenger side as well

RedlineMan

Hey Jester;

How come your car only has one fender?

Anything you would do like that is an improvement over just going through the floor like the rules state. The thing about what I'm doing is that it also gives more headroom, and gets rid of the somewhat flimsy seat mounts. Three birds with one stone, as it were.

jester911

[QUOTE=RedlineMan]Hery Jester;

How come your car only has one fender?

Well it is all I can afford right now.
I am only going to use the car for DE's so I am not going to go as far as redoing the seat mounts unless I can't get the head room I need. I am only 6' so I think it will be fine for now.

I just want to make the harness mounts completely independent of the seat rails/mounts and make it safe as well. I figure since I am starting with a clean slate then it will be easier to do it once. I could always redo the seat mount later on as it will be independent of the work I am doing now.

I will try to get some pics up to show what I have done.

chrisp

Here's what I had installed in my car. It's a subframe suspended from the floor. The tubes are 1.25" square and the plate is 1/8". The entire thing was built as a subassembly outside the car, dropped in and seam welded to the center tunnel and sill. Fortunately I already had the fuel lines out of the car so the tunnel welding was not a concern. Normally you have to be very careful not to damage the plastic fuel lines just behind that wall of the center tunnel. They run along the driver side of the center tunnel.

Net gain is at least 1" lower than the stock mounting "wings", a stable sub strap mounting point, and a stout structure between me and the flimsy seat pan.

chrisp

Here's the pic