Roll-on latex(?) chip guard for track cars?
09-23-2002, 10:53 AM
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Roll-on latex(?) chip guard for track cars?
Need help locating this stuff.. basically you just use the paint roller that comes with it and "paint" it on as a liquid. It dries to a semi-hard rubbery finsih to guard your car from flying rocks. You can then you can peel it off at the end of the weekend, or when ever you choose. Not to be confused with the 3M film that you apply. Anyone?
09-23-2002, 12:11 PM
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I have heard about this stuff. The last I heard body shops use it to protect from overspray when painting. Never heard about it for track use, though I would be interested in learning more.
Anybody??? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
Anybody??? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
09-23-2002, 12:50 PM
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I've seen someone use it Pocono. It's this gooey liquid that comes with a little plastic paint try and roller. You just roll it on any surface of your car you want to protect and it dries to a rubber cement type feel.
09-23-2002, 01:41 PM
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Groco Specialty Coatings
Product Name is TransSeal - or TranSeal.
I have purchased it directly from them before - for approximately $30/gallon.
It works great, just mask off the areas that you do not want to get it on (rubber, glass, plastic). Also mask off all of your edges. Then when you get home - just peel it right off. I also apply a coat of wax on my car immediately before putting it on. I figure the wax will act as a barrier between the coating and the actual paint.
Other issues : If it rains - peel it off before it gets too wet. Water dissolves the product since it is waterbased, so unless you want a slimy mess on your car, that is kind of a pain to get off, don't let it get too wet.
I've used it on my car, and when I've gotten home, just peeled it off a quarter panel or fender at a time - it just comes off in a big sheet if you apply it thick enough (2 coats). And the car underneat looks just like it did when you waxed it.
Brian
Product Name is TransSeal - or TranSeal.
I have purchased it directly from them before - for approximately $30/gallon.
It works great, just mask off the areas that you do not want to get it on (rubber, glass, plastic). Also mask off all of your edges. Then when you get home - just peel it right off. I also apply a coat of wax on my car immediately before putting it on. I figure the wax will act as a barrier between the coating and the actual paint.
Other issues : If it rains - peel it off before it gets too wet. Water dissolves the product since it is waterbased, so unless you want a slimy mess on your car, that is kind of a pain to get off, don't let it get too wet.
I've used it on my car, and when I've gotten home, just peeled it off a quarter panel or fender at a time - it just comes off in a big sheet if you apply it thick enough (2 coats). And the car underneat looks just like it did when you waxed it.
Brian
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09-24-2002, 04:28 PM
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I just ordered some directly from the manufacturer. He charge 26 dollars for a gallon as compared to Platz who charged 30 for a quart. The guy I talked to said that it was designed to be used on a clearcoat so becareful if used on you older 911. I think it would not damage, he just said a real PITA to take off. Interesting fact, this is actually used on all PT Cruisers coming here from Mexico to protect the paint. The difference being they spray it on. Apparently a corvette club in Iowa orders alot of this stuff to use on their cars.
09-25-2002, 08:33 AM
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It comes off easily. Just wash the car first and apply a quick coat of wax before applying it.
When removing, you can get corner of it started with your fingernail and just peel it off in a big sheet.
Just don't let it get into your seams or onto your rubber or glass.
Brian
When removing, you can get corner of it started with your fingernail and just peel it off in a big sheet.
Just don't let it get into your seams or onto your rubber or glass.
Brian
09-25-2002, 12:15 PM
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I've tortured myself over this issue for years. There are several products out there that regular people like us can't have access to, unless you know people in the industry: Most cars that are being unloaded into dealerships come with a white saranwrap-like material over the hood, fenders, and A and C pillars. Peels off easily. Clings tight. No one knows where I can get these. Second, you know when you buy a brand new cell phone, or any electronic appliance that has an acrylic window? There is almost always a clear film that you peel off; this film is much thicker than saran wrap. Static cling. Don't know where I can get it. Lastly, having just purchased appliances, GE and Kenmore stoves/dishwashers, etc., I had to peel off a thin film green colored from the front of the appliance. Also static cling. I've called the Kenmore assembly plant, General Motors assembly plant. Not a soul knows where I can get these products from. The answer I get is, "We order these from somewhere." Duhhhhhh. One time I tried using just saran wrap. It workds only over your hood, but don't go past the front 1/3 of the hood! First time I did it I covered the entire hood with it, the damn wrapping billowed out from the posterior 2/3. You know there is a reason behind why Colgan's hood cover only covers the front 1/3 of the hood: Aerodynamics. As far as the fenders are concerned, the only things that would work are the liquid latex, or 3M's blue masking tape. Problem with masking tape is that no matter how little adherence there is behind the tape, the adhesive is there and you may need to wipe it off with goof off, specially when the day gets hot, or specially around the rear fenders close to your motor and muffler (adhesive gets hot and melts on to your paint, royal PITA). I plan on using that latex next week, that is if Isidore doesn't dump 2 feet of rain on us!
09-25-2002, 12:48 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by Arthur:
<strong> As far as the fenders are concerned, the only things that would work are the liquid latex, or 3M's blue masking tape. Problem with masking tape is that no matter how little adherence there is behind the tape, the adhesive is there and you may need to wipe it off with goof off, specially when the day gets hot...</strong><hr></blockquote>
I used a 7 day release blue masking tape for my headlights. I had no problems with residue upon removal... even after two very hot days at Sebring in August. I did not try it near any heat source on the rear fenders.
It has been suggested to try shelving paper. Anybody ever hear or try this? I made a mag bra that worked pretty well... till it got sucked off my hood at 125!
Guess I should have taped the front down. <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />
<strong> As far as the fenders are concerned, the only things that would work are the liquid latex, or 3M's blue masking tape. Problem with masking tape is that no matter how little adherence there is behind the tape, the adhesive is there and you may need to wipe it off with goof off, specially when the day gets hot...</strong><hr></blockquote>
I used a 7 day release blue masking tape for my headlights. I had no problems with residue upon removal... even after two very hot days at Sebring in August. I did not try it near any heat source on the rear fenders.
It has been suggested to try shelving paper. Anybody ever hear or try this? I made a mag bra that worked pretty well... till it got sucked off my hood at 125!
Guess I should have taped the front down. <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />