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Instructing - Heel and Toe

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Old 12-12-2006, 11:09 PM
  #61  
reno808
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LARRY thats how its done. Very smooth and very nice 911
Old 12-13-2006, 12:26 AM
  #62  
VaSteve
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
Sometimes it's better to see it for yourself. Click here for a couple of turns from my Daytona race. Turn up the volume!

Going into turn one is a huge decreasing radius turn requiring a lot of braking. I downshift from 5th to 3rd, and then to 2nd before getting back on the power. Notice that the downshifts are smooth, and the transition from brakes to full throttle is seamless. Finally, the powertrain is always engaged, except for the briefest periods during the downshift.

Thanks for the video. I need to find one with feet and tach in the image, but that's a good start. I reviewed it next to one of my own videos..I have some work to do.
Old 12-13-2006, 01:11 AM
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i just wanted to say blip
Old 12-13-2006, 02:40 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck

I never had much luck rolling my ankle and hitting the gas with my heel. I was watching a Tiff Needell video where he was driving a 996 Turbo (or maybe it was a GT3) and they cut to a shot of his feet as he heel toe'ed.. he used the left portion of his toes on the edge of the brake pedal with the right side of his toes on the gas pedal. This method works especially well with cars that have a floor mounted accelerator pedal i think. I also use this method on my friends Japanese cars that have the pedal hanging from under the dash (like most non-euro cars). Rolling my ankle has never felt natural to me.

).
I'm with you...that is how i do it and it feels great and produces the same results.
Old 12-13-2006, 08:45 AM
  #65  
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ditto, I use the ball of my foot on the brake and heel on the gas... middle to top of the gas peddle.. depending on how high the brake peddle is.

(guess, I'm only heel and toeing, & not double clutching after all)

ps: I like the idea of matching revs while driving (no brakes, just clutch in and BLIP! then clutch out, not using the shifter.) to get the feel of how to to match rev's.

a loud exaust helps too.

Last edited by mrbill_fl; 12-13-2006 at 08:18 PM.
Old 12-13-2006, 10:20 AM
  #66  
speedread
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I start students with the engine OFF. They can practice over and over this way, including shifting. Once they get the feel, then turn the car on.
I agree big shoes don't work. Some tennis shoes are narrow. I have a pair I use for daily driving that work almost as well as my driving shoes.
Old 12-13-2006, 11:48 AM
  #67  
reno808
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aLSO MATCH REVING makes your a much smoother, faster, and stressing on the drivetrain driver when you have to down shift. Same concept but with out the brakeing part
Old 12-13-2006, 12:59 PM
  #68  
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In addition to learning the techique and practicing it, I think there is some physical conditioning you go through on the way to getting good at it.

While it's easier to heel and toe at N/10s on the track than on the street, I figured I'd never get enough hours on the track to be really good at it so just committed 10 yrs back to doing it regularly in everyday driving. I use the left half/right half of the foot technique. For me it required 9 mos or so to train/condition the right leg to feel natural doing it. Especially on the street where the brake pedal hasn't traveled so far, my ankle really needs a good stretch to reach over for the throttle.
Old 12-13-2006, 01:05 PM
  #69  
Mike Murphy
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I've seen people buy computer sims with seemingly realistic pedal setups. Would help in practicing heel/toe?
Old 12-13-2006, 04:31 PM
  #70  
993inNC
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
The basic point of any of this is to have the drivetrain re-engaged before you get off of the brakes. That way the power is there immediately, not a second later. It really does make a big difference at 10/10ths.
EXACTLY! You do understand
Old 12-13-2006, 04:54 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by TD in DC
Are you 100% certain on that? I'm not talking about mashing down the throttle and holding it there for any length of time while in neutral or with the clutch medal in. I am talking about a blip -- on and off the throttle -- on a car with a normal flywheel (only because I have never driven a car with a light flywheel). For those types of blips, if you have a rev limiter, I don't think (I appreciate that I could be wrong on this) you can damage your engine by a very strong blip. I have been told this by a number of instructors, both amateur and pro.

In any event, I doubt you could even make it to redline because most people tend to underblip so they aren't even blipping that strongly when they think they are really pounding the pedal.
Unless it was a case of "tach bounce" I know it can happen. On the plus side, since you are blipping while the clutch is in, there isn't any (or at least reduced) driveline "drag" on the motor thus the likeness of damage is lessened. I should also point out this was more of an issue for me after going to a Light weight flywheel where revs would drop quicker then I had been used to, and in situations of performing a 5-3 downshift vs a 5-4-3 sequence.
Old 12-13-2006, 06:22 PM
  #72  
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well may as well ask this....4th gear to 2nd or 4-3-2??
At Sebring coming into the hairpin I go 4 to 2 ( of course perfectly heel toe shifting LOL) but on the long back straight I go 5 to 4 to 3 cause much larger radius turn.
Is one more correct or incorrect for any reason???

As for the LWFW, I have one and have actually stalled the car with an aggressive "over blip" cause the revs dropped so fast (does that make sense?)
Old 12-13-2006, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tkerrmd
well may as well ask this....4th gear to 2nd or 4-3-2??
In Drive to Win Carroll Smith acknowledged that most racers today skip right to the gear they want. He doesn't argue with that other than to say it sure sounds great when the driver hits every gear...
Old 12-13-2006, 06:35 PM
  #74  
Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by tkerrmd
As for the LWFW, I have one and have actually stalled the car with an aggressive "over blip" cause the revs dropped so fast (does that make sense?)
I have one too, but I do not understand what you are doing to allow the revs to drop and stall the engine. Check out my video again. I double-clutch due to my early years autocrossing Spitfires; having to get them back into 1st gear. Pay careful attention to the sound. I push in the clutch, slip it into neutral, let the clutch backout again and blip the throttle, all in less than one second. There is no way the motor can lose enough revs to stall there. Once I wing it up, I push the clutch back in, drop it into the lower gear, and let the clutch right back out again. Now the powertrain is re-engaged at very high RPMs. Please explain to me exactly what you are doing.
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Old 12-13-2006, 06:43 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by tkerrmd
well may as well ask this....4th gear to 2nd or 4-3-2??
At Sebring coming into the hairpin I go 4 to 2 ( of course perfectly heel toe shifting LOL) but on the long back straight I go 5 to 4 to 3 cause much larger radius turn.
Is one more correct or incorrect for any reason???

As for the LWFW, I have one and have actually stalled the car with an aggressive "over blip" cause the revs dropped so fast (does that make sense?)
I used to do 4-2 into the hairpin, but it just felt weird to me. It is a bizarre place because you braking is so abrupt and you are basically standing still when you come out of that turn. I am also in 2 coming out of T10 in the 930 because of the gears. But, I am slower than molassas compared to you i am sure.


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