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Instructing - Heel and Toe

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Old 12-12-2006, 05:09 PM
  #31  
993inNC
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Originally Posted by Alan Herod
This clutch slipping technique can be done at the end of the braking zone and it is not necessary to push in the clutch until you are ready to shift gears. I admit to having observed and practiced this technique. With a front wheel drive car, it probably helps to rotate the car on corner entry. I admit that if it is done correctly it can be very smooth, but the penalty if not done correctly is similar to engaging the emergency brake lightly.

I have four trips to VIR planned for next year -- maybe I will see you there.
I'm glad someone else here has a clue what it is I am talking about.......I hate to feel like the odd man out
In front drive cars, when done incorrectly the motor stops.....BAD. I have not, to my knowledge experience the E-brake thing, but when I do the dance wrong, it just upsets the car and my cornering execution up quite badly

I am usually #54 and in the car in the sig. below, hope to see you at VIR sometime, come say Hi
Old 12-12-2006, 05:13 PM
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993inNC
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Originally Posted by TD in DC
Isn't slipping the clutch very hard on the clutch? I mean, that is what you are talking about . . . letting the clutch out slowly so that the revs come up smoothly, isn't it?

Done correctly, heel/toeing allows you to depress and release the clutch pedal very quickly without slipping the clutch at all . . .

Also, is it possible to generate the same amount of neg. Gs (braking force) if the clutch pedal is depressed for the entire braking zone?

Honest questions here . . .
If done wrong and you take forever to let out, yes. Like I said this all happens (supposed to anyway) very quickly almost like heel/toe.
Old 12-12-2006, 05:15 PM
  #33  
JustinL
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Originally Posted by cooleyjb
What JustinL describes as Heel-toe is just rev-matching.
Essentially that's how I see it. Rev matching with one part of the foot while the other part is braking.
Old 12-12-2006, 05:26 PM
  #34  
Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by 993inNC
I'm glad someone else here has a clue what it is I am talking about.......I hate to feel like the odd man out
With your last explanation, I understand exactly what you are doing. I have to say that I find problems with that technique in a rear engined car, and cannot help but feel that you have to be going slower at the transition point in order for this to work. In all fairness though, I think that I would need to ride with you to see for myself. I am going to try and make the Zone 2 VIR event in March. Maybe you will be there too.
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Old 12-12-2006, 05:37 PM
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Well, but you have to keep in mind Larry that I'm a 4S, everything is spinning. You really do have to experience to understand it. And yes maybe it can be slower, but it is so SOOOTH when right, its worth it
Old 12-12-2006, 05:45 PM
  #36  
JC in NY
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First, I think it's impossible to properly execute high performance driving without knowing how to heel-toe downshift in at least one of its variants.

That said, I never try to teach it to a new student on the track. It's not possible! It takes a lot of practice to get it right, and a tremendous amount of repitition. Your time as an instructor is better spent on other topics. I always teach my students the proper technique, and charge them to study and practice it and get it right for next time. But we don't do it during the 20 minute session unless the student shows extraordinary conpetence right away.
Old 12-12-2006, 05:46 PM
  #37  
Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by 993inNC
Well, but you have to keep in mind Larry that I'm a 4S, everything is spinning. You really do have to experience to understand it. And yes maybe it can be slower, but it is so SOOOTH when right, its worth it
Fair enough. The inherent understeer in your C4S may require you to do subtle things to get it to turn-in that would give up significant speed in a rear wheel drive car.
Old 12-12-2006, 05:50 PM
  #38  
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Chris - will you be at VIR in October 2007 with NNJR? Perhaps we can share rides then.

Thanks for the explanation of your technique. I feel heel-toe would set someone up for the corner with a more balanced car than your technique - since the downshift is done further up in the braking zone, the car has more time to get settled if the downshift isn't ideal. With your technique, you're saving the engagement of the clutch to the last second. If something goes wrong at that point, you have less of a buffer to work with, AWD and all.

-Z-man.
Old 12-12-2006, 05:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Z-man
Chris - will you be at VIR in October 07 with NNJR? Perhaps we can share rides then.

.........................................

-Z-man.

Are you saying that NNJR is moving to October for VIR in '07?????
Old 12-12-2006, 05:55 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Bull
Are you saying that NNJR is moving to October for VIR in '07?????
I heard rumors to that effect, but they may have been talking of another track altogether. VIR for NNJR may be just earlier in November. As soon as dates are confirmed, I can post them up here.

-Z
Old 12-12-2006, 05:55 PM
  #41  
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I taught myself to heel toe on the street probably 6 months after i learned to drive stick. I used to watch many videos of Keiichi Tsuchiya (the Drift King) bombing back roads and loved the footwork..naturally i had to learn it! Its easiest to do it from 5th to 4th as i feel its more natural, 4th to 3rd is not bad either, 3rd to 2nd took me a long time to get right, mainly figuring out how much 'blip' i needed to get the RPM's at the right level.

I never had much luck rolling my ankle and hitting the gas with my heel. I was watching a Tiff Needell video where he was driving a 996 Turbo (or maybe it was a GT3) and they cut to a shot of his feet as he heel toe'ed.. he used the left portion of his toes on the edge of the brake pedal with the right side of his toes on the gas pedal. This method works especially well with cars that have a floor mounted accelerator pedal i think. I also use this method on my friends Japanese cars that have the pedal hanging from under the dash (like most non-euro cars). Rolling my ankle has never felt natural to me.

Based on reading this thread though, im beggining to wonder if what i am doing is actually the heel-toe idea.

Entering a turn i will start braking
Shift into neutral and release clutch
Blip the gas with the other side of my foot while still braking
Shift back into my desired lower gear
and depending on the turn continue to brake or release the brake at the same time i release the clutch pedal to go back into gear
then obviously turn .
Old 12-12-2006, 06:02 PM
  #42  
Larry Herman
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The basic point of any of this is to have the drivetrain re-engaged before you get off of the brakes. That way the power is there immediately, not a second later. It really does make a big difference at 10/10ths.
Old 12-12-2006, 06:04 PM
  #43  
VaSteve
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Originally Posted by 1957 356
Another trick on the street is to practice just the blipping. While in gear, put the clutch in and let the RPM's drop then practice just blipping the throttle to the right RPM then let the clutch out (no braking at all). Helps to give a sense of how much pressure is required on the throttle.


How much pressue is required on the throttle? Sometimes, especially on the street, I find that I'm a little early on the gas and some of the revs die off before the clutch is re-engaged. Especially prevalent in my SC (which has the decel valve disconnected ...by PO).

I see the modded out track cars shoot fire on the track, but I'm not certain they are stomping it to the floor, more that they have a rich mix.
Old 12-12-2006, 06:41 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TD in DC

Also, is it possible to generate the same amount of neg. Gs (braking force) if the clutch pedal is depressed for the entire braking zone?

Honest questions here . . .

Yes it is. Your brake force is dependant upon the traction of the tires and if you are on the track your brakes better be able to overcome the traction of the tires. Are you implying that the engine can be helping you slow down here??
Old 12-12-2006, 06:45 PM
  #45  
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Techno Duck -- I think I see what you are saying, but you should begin braking at the start of your braking zone, not when entering a turn. I think you meant to say that. If you release the clutch with the shift lever in neutral and then push it back in to select the lower gear, that is double clutching (or double de-clutching). Don't need to let the clutch out in neutral. Sometimes it does help going into the next lower gear.

VaSteve, if you notice, I modded the accelerator pedal to make it easier to heel-toe the SC. Make some big super foot thing and mount it to your accelerator pedal and you can do it with your heel or by rolling your foot. The point is the blip is as you are moving the shift lever into the gear and even with a lightened clutch the revs don't have a chance to die. You will have to determine when exactly, as your throttle response may not be the same as mine which may not be the same as Larry's.


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