R compounds on the street/camber
#1
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For those running them where are your camber settings at ? I'm looking for some real experiences from those that DE/Street their cars.
FYI- before you scratch your head and ask me why, my car doesn't see more than 2500 miles per year and about 600-700 of that is one the track w/MO30ROW suspension. I've done the search and I'm aware of what some of you guys are doing for the track, but haven't seen a suggestion for my application. Leaning on 1.0 front and 1.2 rear so I may get alittle better inside wear for the street and get some ok performance on the track. I know its not the best for track but I would like to get some reasonable wear out of a set of tires. I may have answered my own ?, but TIA
FYI- before you scratch your head and ask me why, my car doesn't see more than 2500 miles per year and about 600-700 of that is one the track w/MO30ROW suspension. I've done the search and I'm aware of what some of you guys are doing for the track, but haven't seen a suggestion for my application. Leaning on 1.0 front and 1.2 rear so I may get alittle better inside wear for the street and get some ok performance on the track. I know its not the best for track but I would like to get some reasonable wear out of a set of tires. I may have answered my own ?, but TIA
#2
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I've been driving my daily drivers ('88 944 NA 4+ years, '92 968 1+ years) with my track alignments. I get a bit of inside wear from street, but it is more than offset, in mine opinion, by a day of grinding rubber at full tilt on the track.
Watch out in rain and snow (yes, have been strapping on snows and driving all winter too). The camber does not help R-compounds in these conditions. Requires a bit more attention.
By the way, my alignment settings have all been with more negative camber than you are suggesting above.
Watch out in rain and snow (yes, have been strapping on snows and driving all winter too). The camber does not help R-compounds in these conditions. Requires a bit more attention.
By the way, my alignment settings have all been with more negative camber than you are suggesting above.
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Tom, you've really answered your own question as you obviously have to be able to comfortably drive your car on the street. I've got -1.5 (f) and -2 (r) on my 996 with PSS9's and some shock tower work. This is still not enough on the track with MPSC's. This is as far as I want to go with a car that's driven allot of miles on the road so I've kept the suspension otherwise stock.
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I have an older, simpler suspension. But I run -2.2/-3.2 with about 12 track weekends a year, and the rest street driving (probably 70% street, 30% track). I get nice even wear, but my car is pretty light.
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Hey;
Anything up to -1.5 will give you pretty good wear. -1.5-2.0 will still work, but you may notice more inner wear. As Dave suggests, this is often self-correcting! Over -2.0 will give you noticeably more inner wear. Excepting light cars, of course, but then you don't have Jack's problem, eh?
Anything up to -1.5 will give you pretty good wear. -1.5-2.0 will still work, but you may notice more inner wear. As Dave suggests, this is often self-correcting! Over -2.0 will give you noticeably more inner wear. Excepting light cars, of course, but then you don't have Jack's problem, eh?
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I drive about the same street miles as you, maybe a little less. I have found that running all of the negative camber that I can get with the stock suspension mounts, or about -2.2 front and rear, still has the outside of the R compounds wearing faster than the inside due to track time.
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If you're getting too much inside wear, you can also switch the rights and the lefts halfway through the tire's lifespan, so that inside and outside get reversed.
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I don't think running R compounds on the street makes sense. For one thing, you can never get the tires hot enough to really use them -- but you will get them hot enough to shorten their lifespan. For another thing, you put yourself and your passengers at risk if you come upon standing water or get trapped in a sudden downpour.
By saving the R compounds for track use, you can extend their useable life significantly -- and save enough money to buy yourself a second set of wheels.
One guy's opinion.
By saving the R compounds for track use, you can extend their useable life significantly -- and save enough money to buy yourself a second set of wheels.
One guy's opinion.
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#10
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I'm running -2.1/-2.3 and used to run R-compounds on street.
No excessive inside tyre wear, I'd say equal wear.
Now I have separate track / street tyres and they both wear pretty evenly, street tyres maybe little more inside but not much.
Most of my street driving is not sitting in traffic, or cruising straight on highway though.
I agree R-compounds can be little scary when it's wet. Last time at Homestead which was two day event I went home for the night and when driving home, during the rain, on concrete bridges, I must've driven maybe 30 mp/h and I was all over the place... It was fun but if you're not used of going sideways (in controlled manner), be careful...
No excessive inside tyre wear, I'd say equal wear.
Now I have separate track / street tyres and they both wear pretty evenly, street tyres maybe little more inside but not much.
Most of my street driving is not sitting in traffic, or cruising straight on highway though.
I agree R-compounds can be little scary when it's wet. Last time at Homestead which was two day event I went home for the night and when driving home, during the rain, on concrete bridges, I must've driven maybe 30 mp/h and I was all over the place... It was fun but if you're not used of going sideways (in controlled manner), be careful...
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I know this is not the common wisdom, but IMO, Camber is not a significant wear setting on the street. Lack of camber on the track can and does cause edge wear. As evidence of camber's innocence, I offer the old VWbeetle. When the rear suspension got tired, excessive negative camber resulted. We all remember driving behind one and wodering if the top of the wheels wererubbing on the inner fender. They did not wear tires unevenly at all. So, my suggestion is run as much negative as you can get and see what happens. I think there will be no problem.
Jack: If you are going to even the wear with rotation, you will have to reverse the wheels on the rim. I wonder if the slightly longer life is worth the expense (for those of us who pay for this service).
Also, I have been runing "Rs" for many years and find the wear on the street is surprisingly good, if you drive easilly on the street. Fro example, I put over 700 miles on a set of 032Rs and they still had the '****' on the rear tires. What I have observed is that running in a straight line, even at speed, the tires just don't get hot enough to go into "gumball" mode.
Having said all that, Jack is 100% right about getting a secodn set of wheels and having two sets of tires.
Jack: If you are going to even the wear with rotation, you will have to reverse the wheels on the rim. I wonder if the slightly longer life is worth the expense (for those of us who pay for this service).
Also, I have been runing "Rs" for many years and find the wear on the street is surprisingly good, if you drive easilly on the street. Fro example, I put over 700 miles on a set of 032Rs and they still had the '****' on the rear tires. What I have observed is that running in a straight line, even at speed, the tires just don't get hot enough to go into "gumball" mode.
Having said all that, Jack is 100% right about getting a secodn set of wheels and having two sets of tires.
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Originally Posted by JackOlsen
If you're getting too much inside wear, you can also switch the rights and the lefts halfway through the tire's lifespan, so that inside and outside get reversed.
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