Which lowest maintenance Porsche to track
02-04-2005, 09:41 PM
#61
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
o your car is an 89, which was only available in the S spec. How do you run PCA E stock with a chip?
Originally Posted by Mark in Denver
Got 'im!
Originally Posted by PCA Club Racing 2005 rulebook PDF
“Prepared” Cars
Any vehicle meeting the criteria for a “stock” Porsche per the previous rules and having one or more of the following changes will progress up one stock class except as noted. Cars whose original stock class is B may not make any of the “prepared” modifications and remain in a “stock” class. Any such
modification will result in reclassification to the appropriate “super class” based on “super class” criteria alone. Note that prepared cars are classified as stock, and compete in the appropriate Class A-K; therefore, except as noted below, all stock rules take precedence.
1. Engine
A. Non-factory DME chip. KLR chip must remain as supplied by factory.
B. Substitution of carburetors for electronic fuel injection on 914’s.
C. Modifications/changes/substitutions of carburetors/venturis on carbureted cars.
D. Non-standard ignition system.
E. Substitution of carburetors for CIS or motronic systems on 911’s, engine unmodified from intake
port to exhaust port, progresses up two stock classes.
F. Substitution of mass flow system for stock air flow metering system progresses up two stock
classes.
Any vehicle meeting the criteria for a “stock” Porsche per the previous rules and having one or more of the following changes will progress up one stock class except as noted. Cars whose original stock class is B may not make any of the “prepared” modifications and remain in a “stock” class. Any such
modification will result in reclassification to the appropriate “super class” based on “super class” criteria alone. Note that prepared cars are classified as stock, and compete in the appropriate Class A-K; therefore, except as noted below, all stock rules take precedence.
1. Engine
A. Non-factory DME chip. KLR chip must remain as supplied by factory.
B. Substitution of carburetors for electronic fuel injection on 914’s.
C. Modifications/changes/substitutions of carburetors/venturis on carbureted cars.
D. Non-standard ignition system.
E. Substitution of carburetors for CIS or motronic systems on 911’s, engine unmodified from intake
port to exhaust port, progresses up two stock classes.
F. Substitution of mass flow system for stock air flow metering system progresses up two stock
classes.
02-05-2005, 12:30 AM
#63
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Originally Posted by Rich Sandor
According to the 2005 rule book, PREPARED-STOCK class cars can have aftermarket DME chips, but the KLR must remain stock. If I'm not mistaken, the DME controls the rev limiter.
02-05-2005, 12:20 PM
#65
Originally Posted by Rich Sandor
I've been running 14psi on guru chips for almost 2 years now. A few tracks days, lots of autoX, lots of very high RPM driving. No problems whatsoever so far. I would submit that your friend's headgasket was on the way out anyways, and the boost upgrade merely expedited the headgasket's departure. The engine has been nothing but reliable in my case. I've had dead batteries and leaky clutch master cylinders, and that's about the extent of my reliability problems. Keep up with critical maintenance, and reliability shouldn't be a problem.
That said, everything on a car is a "wear item." Everything will expire sooner or later. There's no avoiding it. If you think parts are getting old and tired on an 18 yr old 951, how old and tired do you think the parts on a 30 year old 914 are going to be????
Regardless of what you buy, 911, 914 or 944, I think it's really important to know what you are doing before you start spending money. Nothing worse than having to take the car apart 5 or 6 times to upgrade or replace bits, when you could just save up and do it all at once instead.
That said, everything on a car is a "wear item." Everything will expire sooner or later. There's no avoiding it. If you think parts are getting old and tired on an 18 yr old 951, how old and tired do you think the parts on a 30 year old 914 are going to be????
Regardless of what you buy, 911, 914 or 944, I think it's really important to know what you are doing before you start spending money. Nothing worse than having to take the car apart 5 or 6 times to upgrade or replace bits, when you could just save up and do it all at once instead.
02-05-2005, 07:19 PM
#66
Do you Boxster drivers use a hardtop for DEs?
02-06-2005, 10:51 AM
#67
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951 will cost about $25K to get on the track. You could drastically reduce that cost by finding a "motivated" seller who will sell you a track ready $25K car for $13K. I happen to know a sucker who will do just that
My Car here
My Car here
02-06-2005, 02:07 PM
#68
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Originally Posted by gbuff
Do you Boxster drivers use a hardtop for DEs?
02-06-2005, 04:55 PM
#69
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944 NA 8 valve
Donor cars are everywhere. That makes any bumpin or rubbing that happens during a race a cheaper fix by far.
928 could be nice. I never hear about engine reliability being a problem. However they are big fat pigs that take a lot of good driving and prep to get REAL fast.
Non-porsche cheap
Spec Miata
Formula Ford
Shifter Kart
XBOX or PS2
Donor cars are everywhere. That makes any bumpin or rubbing that happens during a race a cheaper fix by far.
928 could be nice. I never hear about engine reliability being a problem. However they are big fat pigs that take a lot of good driving and prep to get REAL fast.
Non-porsche cheap
Spec Miata
Formula Ford
Shifter Kart
XBOX or PS2
07-15-2005, 05:10 PM
#70
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Originally Posted by cooleyjb
928 could be nice. I never hear about engine reliability being a problem. However they are big fat pigs that take a lot of good driving and prep to get REAL fast.
Also REAL fast and economical are never possible in one car. If you want REAL fast out of a 911/996, you'll need beaucoup $$. The 928 is the most race car for the money, and it CAN be REAL fast, with far less $ than needed for a 911/996 for the same performance goal....that is why I'm planning my track car to be a 928.
07-15-2005, 11:07 PM
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I read this thread and am very surprised that the 928 was not mentioned more often. I only do DE days with my 1986.5 928S which is a automatic with 130K + miles on it. It is also stripped, caged, has two Sparcos with harnesses, 3 qt accusump, JRZs at all four corners and is driven to and from the track. It still has a lot of wieght that can be removed but I'm keeping the items since I drive it on the road. I weighed it with a 1/4 tank of gas and it was 2950lbs. Not too bad and the horsepower is approximately 300+ at the crank. Has plenty of go and I don't have too many problems keeping up on the track although I am still on the up part of the learning curve. Lots of fun and no problems at the track. Probably will have some now that I said that... 
07-17-2005, 03:47 AM
#72
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Hmmm, just wondering why no one has mentioned the SCs at all. The 3.0 engines have a reputation for being very robust, and CIS is reliable, too. The 915, if in good shape, is likewise a stong/reliable tranny for the long haul. I have no quantifiable data to share as I am still in the throws of bringing mine up to snuff. But all the info I got before finally deciding on an SC for track use was based word-of-mouth and track-talk with owners. And the common "theme" I was hearing was "more expensive to buy, but cheaper to own in the long run." Does anyone have any experience on extended SC track usage they'd like to share? I know I'd be interested.
Edward
Edward
07-17-2005, 11:29 AM
#73
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Edward - great suggestion about the SC, but my friend just bought a track prepped SC and took it to the track for the first time ever yesterday and a chain tensioner failed (it had the Carrera oil-fed upgrade too). I couldn't believe his luck 
I guess no car is impervious to expensive repairs...
I guess no car is impervious to expensive repairs...
07-18-2005, 04:15 PM
#74
Race Director
Well that is basic problem with any track car.
Some nickle and dime you, but never have major issues. Other run run then bang... Time open tha wallet big time.
So there is no simple answer to this as maintenence can mean different things to different people. Someone that has little money, but can wrech on the car will have different opinion to someone with lots of money, but no time or desire to touch the car.
In many ways the maintenence requirements will be driven by how hard you push the car. The harder you drive it the more parts will wear/break. The more hp you get from it the more parts will wear or fail.
Some nickle and dime you, but never have major issues. Other run run then bang... Time open tha wallet big time.
So there is no simple answer to this as maintenence can mean different things to different people. Someone that has little money, but can wrech on the car will have different opinion to someone with lots of money, but no time or desire to touch the car.
In many ways the maintenence requirements will be driven by how hard you push the car. The harder you drive it the more parts will wear/break. The more hp you get from it the more parts will wear or fail.
