Hey Alpine;

Do indeed grab the Wilwood 570. It is an excellent product. I've used it for years. Buy it from my local speedshop for under $4 per pint. They also have a higher temp fluid now, but most places don't stock it.

And the "pint" part is nice because that's all it takes. You don't need any where near a liter to do the job, and you don't waste the rest of the opened bottles that way.

 

I run the Motul, but my car is also a fat fast pig...

 

In order of preference:

1: Motul Racing
2: Castrol SRF
3: ATE Blue
4: Ford Heavy Duty.

 

Alpine 951,
You can also run ATE Super Typ 200 (Gold); it's the same as Super Blue, just no 'blue' added, so mixing shouldn't be a problem....other than maybe turning your brake fluid green

You can order it from cdoc.com:
http://cdoc.com/products.asp?str=100...E+Brake+Fluids
Like you, I live in MA and it ships the day you order it, so I have it in 2 days with regular shipping (FedEx Ground).

 

========================================================================
Brake Fluid Specs (various sources)
========================================================================

Castrol SRF
DOT Rating of 4
518 Wet Boiling Temperature
590 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is Compatible With Other Fluids
33.8 oz

ATE Super Blue & Typ200
Dot Rating of 4
382 Wet Boiling Temperature
536 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is Compatible With Other Fluids
1 liter

AP-600
Dot Rating of 3
284 Wet Boiling Temperature
572 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is NOT Compatible With Other Fluids
16.9 oz

AP-550
Dot Rating of 3
284 Wet Boiling Temperature
550 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is Compatible With Other Fluids
16.9 oz

Wildwood 570
Dot Rating of 3
284 Wet Boiling Temperature
570 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is Compatible With Other Fluids
12.0 oz

PFC Z-Rated
Dot Rating of 3
284 Wet Boiling Temperature
550 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is Compatible With Other Fluids
16.0 oz

Ford HD
Dot Rating of 3
284 Wet Boiling Temperature
550 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is Compatible With Other Fluids
16.0 oz

Castrol LMA
Dot Rating of 4
311 Wet Boiling Temperature
446 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is Compatible With Other Fluids
12.0 oz

Valvoline Synpower
DOT Rating of 3 and 4
343 Wet Boiling Temperature
502 Dry Boiling Temperature
Is Compatible With Other Fluids
32 oz

 

just an fyi...

i have gotten motul products in the past from www.turbofrogperformance.com

if you are local, you can get a "pick-up" discount i believe.

 

I've run plenty of DEs using plain off-the-shelf DOT4. No problems. (Or other numbers handy) Switched to Super Blue for the peace of mind.

1 quart will be fine. My 928 flushes out with a half quart or so.

 

So what does the boiling point really mean? I run ATE blue and have never "lost" the brakes, athough they tend to get a bit soft in a hard run session. Would a higher boiling point fluid give a firmer pedal, or is that a function of pads and other factors?

 

The pedal gets softer as the brake fluid gets more compressable. The boiling point is essentially the point where your brake fluid is so hot that it becomes a compressable gas, instead of a fluid, and your brake pedal goes straight to the floor when you press it, and you need to pump the brakes in order to slow down.

So a Higher boiling point is better.

Wet boiling point is when the fluid boils if it has moisture in the lines, dry boiling is when it boils if it is fresh fluid out of the can. Brake fluid with moisture present will boil earlier than dry (new) fluid.

Even if you bleed the brakes, you can still have moisture in the fluid, which is why you still need to flush the brakes every so often.

 

I use the Ford HD and it's cheap enough to flush every time I would normally bleed. Found out about it from real racers. I figured it would work for DEs!

End of season I change back to ATE or Porsche stock as the wet boiling point is low and the fluid will be in the car for awhile. That's the only downside i've heard about! I've never had any problems, either!

 

is there any rating or comparison for any of these fluids hydroscopicity (is that a word?)? meaning, how much they "attract" moisture?

i've always only heard of boiling points.

 

Here's a new one I'm thinking about trying....

PROSPEED GS610 Racing Brake Fluid

The Newest and Toughest Brake Fluid in the World!

New and proprietary formulation make GS610 the most extreme performance brake fluid available today. Created specifically to exceed the performance needs of any current racing application, including carbon/carbon brakes.
The development of GS610 required over 2 years of exhaustive research, multiple trial formulations and testing both in the lab and on the track. For the 2003 racing season, it was the exclusive brake fluid for a prominent Formula One Team. (Team name can not be disclosed because of contract agreement)

Dry Boiling Point 610° F

full specs found here.. http://www.gs610.com/specifications.htm

Nice side by side comparison of many brake fluids here...
http://www.gs610.com/compare1.htm

 

Hey all;

The extent of a given fluid's hyGroscopic nature is reflected in its wet boiling point. This number is derived from heating fluid that has absorbed 100% of its limit of moisture from the atmosphere.

Having a brake pedal "go soft" can stem from other factors than fluid. Certainly having old fluid is the leading cause of this. Having cheap fluid is another.

It can also be a perception caused by the brake pads and rotors reaching their heat saturation point, and it is usually the former. When pads start to overheat - either from being too thin or not the right heat range for the application - they will lose stopping power. They will either off-gas excessively and float the pad off the rotor surface, or actually start to melt and transfer, or dissintegrate.

Both circumstances are marked by the driver having to apply more pedal pressure because the car will not stop. This can lead one to think that the pedal is "soft." Many times this stems from flex in the components themselves being stressed more than normal. You would be amazed to watch the amount of firewall flex most cars will have when someone really stomps on the pedal.

Still, fluid is the main thing to keep track of. If you flush once a year and have a soft pedal, you might need to change fluid brands, or simply change more often!

 

not that I know of. My experience is that different fluids get "wet" at very different rates too. The Ate Type 200 seems to absorb moisture much more slowly than Motul, for example.

It certainly would be useful information to have.

 

Any further info on this stuff? The Ad copy sounds good, but I'm interested in hearing if anyone has tried it.

Grassyass.