JRitt@essex

Click this link: How to choose racing brake fluid

rbahr

Yep, I see the gif :-)

Porsche uses Endless in the RSR, Not positive, but that may have when they were running the PFC calipers. I have long used AP Racing / Brembo (same stuff, Brembo ownes or used to own AP), There are those who swear by SRF - but seems a bit pricey to me.

Nickle tour: What is important (IMNSHO) are the wet boiling points - since most brake fluid likes to absorb water, generally from humidity in the air. Water is the problem with brake fluid - it drops the boiling point, and this is all about heat management. Soft brake pedals are largely due to steam pockets being created in the brake lines from water, which are compressible - note brake fluid is not really!

Porsche's have amazing brakes, and there are plenty of good cooling options, if you are tracking your car, you should ensure that you take advantage of these cooling do-dads :-)

A 30 sec blurt, worth what you are paying for it!

JRitt@essex

No offense to rbahr, but our professional opinion is that wet boiling point is an antiquated yardstick that has very little relevance for anything other than a mom's soccer van. We use AP Racing R4 in NASCAR Cup, it won the IndyCar championship last year, etc. We service all the top teams directly with these products. If you read the article to which I linked, you'll see why. Dry boiling point is the primary concern in a modern road car going to the track.

rbahr

I agree, but the fluid gets wet somewhat quickly AND the wet point represents worst case - which is how I usually plan things. Not to mention that most fluids have pretty high dry boiling points, it is how they market them. Always look at and plan with the weakest link in mind...

- As long as the system is maintained at the proper level. Individuals don't do that!


That said, I do use AP / Brembo :-)

TXE36

I've been guilty of the same thing. Decades ago I was drinking a beer staring down at a messed up oil pump shaft contemplating if "I could live with it" because of the laundry list of parts like oil pan, transfer case, front axles, etc that would have to come out to change it. Downside of bad outcome from living with it would be a broken timing belt and pistons hitting valves.

Next door neighbor walks up, about 30 years my senior and a skilled mechanic. Offer him a beer and we are both staring at it and he simply says, "if it looks ****ed up, it most likely is ****ed up". Finished my beer and started ripping it apart...

Sage advice and applies to the OP's rotor(s).

dgrobs

Words to live by.......

Tief Lernen

I would love to get a set of slotted rotors as replacements, but the problem is, I installed the Tarrett caliper studs last year because I was worried about stripping the threads in the uprights, and the studs are not long enough to accommodate spacers for a larger rotor. Seems like all the slotted rotor vendors are using a larger radius as well, which would require spacers, and I don't want to deal with the the headache of replacing the studs (which seems to require heating them to weaken the loctite?) at this point.

Even with the studs at this length, it is already rather awkward to get the caliper onto the studs with the clunky brake line bracket attached. I feel like I am applying more force to the hard brake line than I should be. With longer studs, it would be even worse.

Thundermoose

You should be able to find slotted rotors with same dimensions as your current rotors.

Also, I may be missing something but rotors and calipers go together. I don't think you can simply add spacers to accommodate a larger radius. You'd also need a different set of calipers.

Kitc2246

I've had Tarett caliper studs on my last two cars. It sounds like you didn't install the smaller stud for the brake brackets. You should unbolt the brake line bracket to give the extra room to lift the caliper off the stud without potentially damaging the brake lines. The smaller stud makes this easier and repeatable. You should be able to order Sebro slotted in the standard size for you car, front and back from several vendors. I ordered a front and rear set for my 2013 BS from FCP Euro which come with a warranty. I have not warranty, but others indicate you order a new set, send the old ones back and they give you credit.

Like HP you can't have too much brake, but unless you feel the need for upgraded brakes, IMO Sebro slotted with a race pad should be more than adequate for a DE.

Tief Lernen

Yeah, I have the brake line bracket studs installed, but the bracket itself is still rigidly attached to the line and caliper and awkwardly gets in the way. Or do you remove the bracket from the caliper and line entirely, in addition to unbolting it from the upright? I don't remember seeing a straightforward way to do that.

I seem to also recall that, when trying to fit the caliper over the studs, the hard brake line itself interferes with the sway bar link, but it's been a few months since I've been under there and I might be misremembering.

okie981

Sebro makes direct replacements for 981 cars, IIRC, they are used in SCCA classes that require OEM sized rotors and calipers.

rbahr

Someone had asked to see a failed rotor:

TXE36

Lemme guess, it tore up the hat and the caliper as well. Looks like that cylinder head has an interesting story...

dgrobs

Yeah, that would qualify...

rbahr

The cylinder head was on a 935 clone. The boost control had 3 settings: $, $$, $$$. I think it was on the highest for a bit to long...

WRT rotor, there was a bit of carnage when it finally went... In general you don't know exactly when, so timing it is not a good thing!

Ray