Try Sebro slotted from FCP Euro which have a warranty.

 

And the pads that were there as well...

Ray

 

I gotta Agee here. I would never run on rotors that look like that. Understand that there will may be some that say they are fine and you can get another event out of them. Great, you are getting new rotors anyway. The risk to you, and to everyone that you are on track with, and that every participant that might lose time as a result of your having an “event” just isnt worth it. The braking system is the most powerful system on they vehicle. Treat it with the respect it requires. Call Clarke and get s set of slotted Girodisks.

 

Some general rules of thumb:

My apologies if I am being pedantic here, just want to review some brake related matters...

Rotors, pads, and brake fluid are consumables - a wear item and should be discarded (esp if the car is tracked) if:

Rotors:

Cracks extending to the edge
Cracks extend between holes
Rotor is below minimum thickness
You have significant lips - as shown here

Pads
Significant checking, delamanation, less than 30% left - people will argue here, maybe it is 20 or 25%, but the thinner the pad, the higher the heat density of the material...

Fluid
If you have had fade
Every several events


When you replace rotors that are particularly worn - replace pads as well - the pads bed into the rotors

Use quality components that are designed for the application - there are a number of good choices - and a number of less good choices, but folks with experience can guide you - remember, brakes pads and fluid are a bit like religion - but that is because when you get used to a specific and repeatable behavior, you want to keep it...

If you are uncertain, err on the side of caution, you are piloting a 3300lb missile on a race track with your buddies who are counting on your car and you to behave in a predictable manner

HTH

Ray

 

Thank you all for the unambiguous feedback.

This is not a surprise to me - I have another set of rotors sitting in the garage already.

 

I kind of wish you didn't admit that...

 

^ Agree, why even pose the question?

That being said, I'd love to hear any experiences of drilled rotors catastrophically failing.

 

Another example of a person knowing what they should do but hoping someone would let them off the hook......

 

If this is true, why the question?

Also, how much track experience do you have?

 

I asked because I genuinely didn’t know the answer.

I’ve been doing track events for about two years. Am running around 2:06 at Thunder Hill 3-mile / Cyclone. I had been letting my shop handle the brake work but decided last year I should learn to do pads, rotors and fluid myself.

I replaced the last set of rotors early because they developed a bad vibration from pad deposits that I couldn’t get rid of (doesn’t seem to be a problem with the Pagid Yellows). This is the first set of rotors I’m replacing just for wear. Despite the lip, these are still above the minimum thickness printed on the rim, and I wasn’t sure how far is reasonable to push things with respect to the surface cracks.

After nearly missing a track day last year because I couldn’t source new pads in time, I now just keep a spare set of all consumables ready to go in my garage. Doesn’t mean I want to use them any earlier than I have to.

 

Once you have slotted on all four corners, you'll be able to run them to min thickness. Drilled tend to not make it that long due to cracks.

 

Yup

 

The main concern is cracks on the outer edge, or down on the inner edge where it attaches to the disc hat. Please check out our article on this topic...has some good info. It was written specifically for AP Racing discs, but it applies to all iron discs:

When is it time to replace my brake discs?

If you decide you want an upgrade for your brakes, we have lots of fantastic AP Racing options that will increase your heat capacity and slow down your pad and disc usage, all without adding unsprung weight. Our AP Racing Radi-CAL Brake Kits are as close as one can get to what the 911 RSR used to win Le Mans.

We have 2-piece discs to replace your fronts and retain the OEM calipers: https://www.essexparts.com/essex-des...-replace-330mm

We also have complete Competition Kits that leverage a larger disc (372x34mm or 380x36mm) and replace the calipers as well: https://www.essexparts.com/my-vehicl...0S/Iron%20disc

For heavy track use, our front CP9661/372mm kit would be ideal: https://www.essexparts.com/essex-des...mm-997-981-718
It uses a considerably larger disc (372x34mm with 84 vanes vs. OEM 330x28mm) and it moves to a six piston AP Racing Radi-CAL with ventilated stainless steel pistons with anti-knockback springs. It still fits inside 18" wheels, and doesn't have any weight penalty over the OEM front brake pacakge despite it's huge size increase!

Also note, since the front brakes tend to take more abuse and wear out faster, many of our customers choose to go with a front-only brake kit. They'll sometimes later add the rear when the OEM rears wear out, or when budget allows. Our systems closely mimic OEM brake torque, so adding just the front won't create problems. Your pad and disc usage goes way down, and most of our customers end up paying for the brake kit in consumable savings alone.

One of the best aspects of our complete brake kits is that you can own them for several years, beat them up, and then sell them on the used market for several thousand dollars when you're done with them. Your OEM calipers won't be thrashed, and the car won't look like it went through war when you put it up for sale.

You can see lots of owner feedback from Boxster, Cayman, and 911 owners on our blog:https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog

Our similar kit for the 991 GT3 also has a large, satisfied following. We have lots of owners tearing up the tracks in California with our system: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...t-finally.html

 

Hi Tief,

Good to see that you are taking part in the maintenance of your car - tracking it will give you plenty of practice wrenching :-)!

This forum is a great place to learn, ask questions but indicate that you are in learning mode!

As I mentioned before, do some research and pick brake components that you are comfortable with on the track, and then you will likely stay with them until you outgrow them. Consistency is what it is all about...

If you have questions about installing the rotors, feel free to ask, and remember to flush and use good brake fluid...

Ray

 

What brake fluid should he use?