Brake fluid and pads
#31
I use the Endless RF650, usually can find it for around $40 - which is cheaper than the castrol. I dont know why that is showing priced so high. And i love the Endless fluid. Never had any brake fade after two long hot summers track days. I always flush before each track event. Maybe not necessary, but I have never experienced fade and dont plan to do so......
#32
Originally Posted by Kitc2246
What was the fluid brand that boiled? Did you check the moisture content?
[quote=Kitc2246] Really surprised if it was racing brake fluid if it were truly just six months old. [quote] ATE200, flushed and documented by a trusted dealer.
[quote=Kitc2246] Which car? [quote] 997.2S
[quote=Kitc2246] Did you take the pads down to a few mm? [quote] no - they were >10mm of friction material at this time. Did 6 more days with them before they were scrapped at <50%
[quote=Kitc2246] I can understand jumping to Motul 600 after your event. Have you thought about a moisture tester, $10 from Amazon. [quote] Nope. Happy with what I do. It may be overkill, but works
[quote=Kitc2246] You didn't indicate how much time between events. 500ml is a healthy bleed, but not a flush. Are you topping off the brake fluid after the 500ml with a fresh can? [quote]
1 month between events. Fresh 500ml can each time, hence at least 500ml. A full bleed is approx 1 liter. The main target is to move the one month old fluid from the reservoir and replace the fluid closest to the heat.
My ideas work for me, I'm happy and don't have issues.
#33
Here's some information on brake fluid boiling points. First is a chart showing how Shell's various fluids react to water content. Second, a table of boiling points for various fluids.
I've superimposed on that the dry and wet boiling points of SRF, RBF600, and ATE200. Since I don't have access to how those fluids react between dry and "wet", I've just drawn straight lines. No doubt they likely curve just like the Shell fluids.
Wet is defined as 3.7% water, and the yellow line depicts that on the graph.
Cost per liter for the three fluids is:
SRF -- $60
RBF600 -- $34
ATE200 -- $17
If you figure in how frequently you will need to change each of these fluids (ie ATE much more often than RBF or SRF) the cost differential diminishes considerably. If you are flushing them at the same service interval ATE saves you $43 per flush. Given what you spend on tires, fuel, pads, registration fees, hotel room, meals,... not to mention your car, the differential is pretty small. Boiling your brake fluid is not a particularly fun thing to do.
I've superimposed on that the dry and wet boiling points of SRF, RBF600, and ATE200. Since I don't have access to how those fluids react between dry and "wet", I've just drawn straight lines. No doubt they likely curve just like the Shell fluids.
Wet is defined as 3.7% water, and the yellow line depicts that on the graph.
Cost per liter for the three fluids is:
SRF -- $60
RBF600 -- $34
ATE200 -- $17
If you figure in how frequently you will need to change each of these fluids (ie ATE much more often than RBF or SRF) the cost differential diminishes considerably. If you are flushing them at the same service interval ATE saves you $43 per flush. Given what you spend on tires, fuel, pads, registration fees, hotel room, meals,... not to mention your car, the differential is pretty small. Boiling your brake fluid is not a particularly fun thing to do.
#34
The other thing I’ll mention has to do with the way you drive. You might be out braking other people on the track, which is excellent. But I’ve learned how to back off a bit, starting particularly on the lower speed turns by trail braking. It could mean the difference between boiling your fluid and not just by changing how you brake.
#35
RF-650
On sale for $40 a can at Evasive Motorsports: https://www.evasivemotorsports.com//...Code=END-ZS010
#37
Something to to keep in mind when looking at the graph I posted: the boundary between the fluid ok and consider flushing fluid is at about 190degc. Given the source for the chart, that is no doubt aimed at street driving. Track brake fluid temperatures will be considerably higher than street temps, and as a result you would need to flush more often.