rlm328

I do not like using the engine for braking, so I will wait until the end of the braking zone and before the apex to heel/toe for the down shift. The heel/toe at the lower speed/rpm at the time of the shift is IMO not as critical to get the rev match just right. I am normally on the accelerator as soon as I finish the shift. What does West have to say, he is the best in the 951s that I know.

LuigiVampa

This issue usually works itself out with practice and time. As you feel more comfortable the heel/toe downshift starts happening where it needs to happen rather than early because of a lack of confidence.

When you are not getting back to gas, or coasting, after the downshift, that is a sign that you are on the right track.

jlanka

I think the method depends on where your throttle is hinged (at least for me) so a top hinged throttle is good for heel toe and bottom hinged is good for sideways, big toe little toe, due to the leverage involved.

ProCoach

This is true. I think some people feel boxed in to doing it with their heel (the blip) when in fact, it's often less of an ergonomic challenge to roll your ankle sideways and catch the throttle with the side of your shoe. YMMV.

GT3DE

that looks nice and smooth because you are way down in rpm

dizzyj

LuigiVampa

I used to have a wing on my pedal to roll my foot. Pro driver I work with constantly gave me $hit about having and said it increased the chances of hitting both the brake and gas when you only wanted the brake.

I told him it was necessary - that I couldn't heel/toe without it.

At the end of the day he tells me to look in my car. He had the mechanics remove it in the morning and I had been driving fine without it.

SmallJ92

If you're proficient and smooth at downshifting I don't think it technically matters where you do your downshifting. Having said that, I do like to complete my downshifts before turning in if possible. Doing so gives me the option to transition to completing my braking with my left foot if I so choose.

TFBoxster

I disagree with comments suggesting "End of the braking zone".

You want to downshift as early as is possible without over-revving the engine. Initial application to max pressure (as quickly as the chassis can handle) and immediate downshift, aiming to complete your shift before trailing in. It means you can give the throttle a big blip without worry that it will push you on when at low revs and allows you time to modulate the brake towards the end of the braking zone, plus you have both hands on the wheel before turning in.

Here's a good Pro example, the late Sean Edwards -

ProCoach

TFBoxster

Indeed!

And if your memory is as good as I believe it is, I'm still a right foot braker!

ProCoach

SkeerRacing

I've always tried to get the downshifts done as early as possible (but making sure I never over-rev). Three benefits to early shifts include an easier time getting to a high initial pressure (easier to hit the brake hard when shifting IMO) and greater engine braking allowing for a more efficient brake zone. But the largest benefit to me is once the downshifting is done, you only have to focus on trailing off the brake and creating the most efficient corner entry possible. Consistency getting into the corner is needed for consistency exiting the corner, and that is a hell of a lot easier when you dont have to think about upcoming footwork!

petee_c

Cool.

Did I miss something, or does he not use the clutch for upshifts.... sneaking a peak at work, so I don't have the volume up....

TFBoxster

Its a Holinger sequential with flat shift on the way up, so no need for the clutch.