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Great question, if installed carefully, the only irreversible modifications are 4 small holes drilled into the passenger rear steel carrier / impact beam to mount the hydraulic unit. You can see it mounted in the picture below. In regards to electrical load, the system only draws energy during the axle lift operation, the pumps runs for aprox. 10 seconds to build pressure in the system to activate the lifting pistons.
I sometimes have to shut off the A/C to get the lift to stay in the “up” position, not the end of the world. However, my alternator may be on the way out so not sure if it’s a common problem. Other than that, the lift is great. Not to mention how much I prefer the shocks to stock.
I can't wait to swap my 17 year old worn shocks for the KW kit. Jimmy, there's steel in our cars. One more question for you, if i may. Roughly how much time does the KW system take to install with corner weighting and alignment?
This is super helpful. Looks like this really can be invisible save for the dampers visible in the engine bay. Now it's really worth considering (along with the rear wing lifters) at the next major service when I send (you) the car for valve lash adjustment!
Originally Posted by jimmyrepasi
Great question, if installed carefully, the only irreversible modifications are 4 small holes drilled into the passenger rear steel carrier / impact beam to mount the hydraulic unit. You can see it mounted in the picture below. In regards to electrical load, the system only draws energy during the axle lift operation, the pumps runs for aprox. 10 seconds to build pressure in the system to activate the lifting pistons.
I can't wait to swap my 17 year old worn shocks for the KW kit. Jimmy, there's steel in our cars. One more question for you, if i may. Roughly how much time does the KW system take to install with corner weighting and alignment?
Agreed! Suspension technology has advanced quite far in the 20 years since the Carrera GT Sach's dampers were designed, any of the current options completely transform the way the car drives. In regards to the install time and chassis set up, it takes a good amount of additional time to run all the wiring and hydraulic lines in an organized way. That being said this kit is commonly installed while other work is being performed so I do my best to build it all in together and invoice no more than the time required for a factory set of dampers
Originally Posted by CRex
This is super helpful. Looks like this really can be invisible save for the dampers visible in the engine bay. Now it's really worth considering (along with the rear wing lifters) at the next major service when I send (you) the car for valve lash adjustment!
Thanks CRex, the extra equipment in this kit is virtually completely hidden once the car is assembled outside of the rear dampers. I offer the kits with different colored springs on request, the yellow isn't for everyone
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I don’t have any first hand experience but the feedback I got was that Ohlin dampers better performing as long as you don’t need/want lift. I’d have gone with Ohlin if not for lift. Idk how often I might need lift and I typically didn’t have it on RS’s but they also had a disposable front lip and an undercarriage NOT made of CF. Otherwise I’d skip the whole lift thing myself.
^ from my own observation on CA canyon roads.
the tiny front lip will scrape on driveway, my driveway is approx 26' and I need it's entire width and some to back the car into garage. if I am off b 6" I will scrape. but that piece is replaceable.
there are some depression on my fav route. I know where they are and will avoid them. but once in a while I will forgot and fly over them. in drive seat, I feel the car has bottomed out. but it's not.
every 6 months the car goes on lift to clean belly, the bottom has only scrape near front bumper area. from the pattern it's not from driving on off driveway, it's from driving on street/canyon. in those cases lift or not will not help.
the "fin" diffuser on back has scrapes on bottom that is from driving fast and not slowing down for bad roads. so again lift wont do me good for my use.
it takes a lot of force and speed to bottom out the car. I know b/c well..... way over speed limit and forgot where the depression was.......
^ from my own observation on CA canyon roads.
the tiny front lip will scrape on driveway, my driveway is approx 26' and I need it's entire width and some to back the car into garage. if I am off b 6" I will scrape. but that piece is replaceable.
there are some depression on my fav route. I know where they are and will avoid them. but once in a while I will forgot and fly over them. in drive seat, I feel the car has bottomed out. but it's not.
every 6 months the car goes on lift to clean belly, the bottom has only scrape near front bumper area. from the pattern it's not from driving on off driveway, it's from driving on street/canyon. in those cases lift or not will not help.
the "fin" diffuser on back has scrapes on bottom that is from driving fast and not slowing down for bad roads. so again lift wont do me good for my use.
it takes a lot of force and speed to bottom out the car. I know b/c well..... way over speed limit and forgot where the depression was.......
what you say rings true on a lot of points.
my trays are scuffed mainly near the front lip and also lightly in the other sections. I had an absolute nightmare in the French Riviera a few weeks back, ended up in a dead end having gone over 6 large speed bumps scraping each time 😤
I think the odd occasion the FAL and RAL (kw comes with both) plus a better and adjustable quality damper is the way forward.
TTX a superior product for sure but no UK back up and no FAL plus Manthey agents to fit the kit in the UK made my mind up.
The KW lift is an insurance policy I hope I never really need but if I do…….
More than that: I want to catch RS Clubsport mileage one day! I know the more situations I can use the GT, the more I am going to use it. Lack of emotion or comfort are never reasons that cause me to not reach for CGT keys. 99% of the time I use the car I wouldn’t need a lift. I am buying the lift for the worry of the 1% which will cause me to use the car that much more. In my 30’s, the thought of making a mod to a car for it to be more usable instead of more pure/performance/sexy was blasphemy! As I approach 50, I’m willing to make some trade-offs to get more use out of it. Everyone has a different line drawn in sand. I’m not going to install heated sofas anytime soon (while not heated, CGT seats most comfy car seat I’ve ever owned). I do, however, have a heated seat cover I can plug in the oddly placed cig lighter . I might plug it in tomorrow to keep top off. Don’t judge!
10-14-2021, 11:39 PM
One more question for you, if i may. Roughly how much time does the KW system take to install with corner weighting and alignment?
