I am replacing the Tilton 5.5 clutch that is currently in my '05 996 cup.. IMHO it is a diabolical piece and has got to go! What are people using as replacements if they want a little be easier to drive setup? Stock, larger Tilton?

 

The 7.25 tilton is a bit easier to handle. Stock is easiest but they blow apart sometimes and wear the synchros more

 

If you still have stock cup flywheel,Just use factory pressure plate and stock cup 4 puck clutch from pmna.

Kennedy engineered products makes a 4 puck g50 you can use also...

Lightweight aase style aluminum flywheel? If so, stay with tilton setup.


I Would learn how to drive it, very lightweight and it's an on/ off switch.

 

I pull the tilton 5.5 and replace with the stock Sachs, and never looked back. Hated the Tilton. If you not speed shifting it feels like you killing the trans. Its over kill IMO. The Sacks is like driving a honda compared to the Tilton

 

^^ wierd I found the tilton about 30% lighter on the leg than the stock clutch.

 

I have used the Tilton 7.25 and 5.5 in steel and now am running the 5.5 in Carbon/Carbon which is by far the best option out there. However, with any of these units, you need to adjust your shifting style for it to work properly. If you are not deliberate on your shifting and/or are not shifting very quickly, they do not work very well.

What issues are you having?

 

Have to say I'm very pleased with mine also.

It is what it is and honestly shouldn't be a problem in a race car. Geoff has the answer though ($) as I understand the carbon unit is sublime in comparison.

 

I am having trouble from 3rd to 4th...matching revs does not help at all...for the class I am racing i actually need less HP and torque (NASA GTS4) and I wouldn't mind having it tamed down a bit. Just seems to make the car more complicated than necessary for no real advantage.

 

Sounds like your 4 th gear syncro is toast or installed incorrectly....

 

A couple of comments:

If you're having trouble shifting your 996 trans, it's not going to be a small clutch design issue. It's much more likely to be warped plates due to heat (driver induced when starting from stop), incorrect free play or clutch stop adjustment, or perhaps a gearbox issue. Are you loading your car on the trailer with the clutch? That will kill it quickly. A small clutch will last a long time if it's treated properly, but will give you fits if you overheat it or don't set it up properly.

A larger clutch/flywheel will not reduce engine horsepower. What is will do is reduce your rate of acceleration due to greater rotating mass.

 

Whoops. Didn't mean to discount Glen's suggestion. He was posting while I was writing...

 

Gearbox has about a half hour total run time on it, freshly rebuilt at Wright Motorsports...so far I've always used the winch to put it in the trailer.

 

realize the flywheel won't reduce but it may take away some of the "peakiness"?

 

If you're having trouble with the 3/4 upshift doubt it's the clutch. That's pretty much the easiest shift to make. I thought you were unhappy with how much of a pain it is to get going in the pits/around the paddock.

I would check the adjustment of the pedal stop. It needs to be checked somewhat regularly. I had mine go out of adjustment a bit and it made the 3/4 shift notchy.

 

Brant,

Are you sure you didn't get snow into the drivetrain, creating problems?

CC