SLM shift light points
02-14-2013, 05:03 PM
#17
Generally upshift 1 is the first light set to turn on, not the last as is shown above.
I generally turn on the first shift light about 1300rpm before the rev limiter in 1st gear
I generally turn on the first shift light about 600rpm before the rev limiter in 6th gear.
I generally turn on the last shift light about 100rpm before the rev limiter kicks on.
The middle gears are inbetween the two.
I generally turn on the first shift light about 1300rpm before the rev limiter in 1st gear
I generally turn on the first shift light about 600rpm before the rev limiter in 6th gear.
I generally turn on the last shift light about 100rpm before the rev limiter kicks on.
The middle gears are inbetween the two.
Last edited by tedean; 02-14-2013 at 10:44 PM.
02-14-2013, 05:49 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
I heard of the SLM but never was interested as I figured the main MOTEC display was enough. But seems this might be beneficial, and they are only about $500. Are you racers who have one glad you have it?
02-14-2013, 05:59 PM
#19
), thus the brake safe light I use (Geoffrey noted a different way to do that).
02-14-2013, 08:57 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Mike, They are a useful tool, especially for the newer 997 Cup guys who sometimes have difficulty adapting to the non power assisted, non ABS brakes. Other functions it performs are somewhat "toyish" like flashing all the lights blue when the pit limiter is on for instance. It is an extremely flexible unit and can do a lot.
02-14-2013, 09:23 PM
#21
Former Vendor
Ive been working with Geoff on all things Motec for a few years. He is one of the best. We've put SLM modules in all the cups and you can do some really nice things. He's developed some ADL2 configs for our drivers that are pretty neat. For example, he setup lock up lights so when you get wheel lockup, not only will it flash on the main display, but the SlM will light up in acertain way to visually indicate front or rear lock. for example, front lock we show by flashing blue lights quicklys, blue/white alternating the very LEFT to of the 8? slm lights. i visualize the SLM bar (i thin it has 5,6,8 lights, frankly, off the top of my head i dont recall). as though i were looking at the driver's side. front is to the left and rear is to the right. so if we get front lock, i light up the left two bulbs, blue alternating with white..and if its rear lock, i light up the right two same way. i cant read that dang display which is showing "REAR LOCK" but if i see lights, i can try to remember it so as i come out of the turn, i can give the brake bias lever a twist.
he sets up the lights so as i step on the brake and approach lockup pressures, the lights lock up right to left, with more and more lights.
again, i dont recall the # of lights, but all of them are fully 100% programmable , many different colors. flashing from blue to white, red to black, any and all combinations of alternating flashing, flashing rates, pauses in between, etc. you can do a whole lot with it.
maybe one of the most functional bits on the car for $500.00
he sets up the lights so as i step on the brake and approach lockup pressures, the lights lock up right to left, with more and more lights.
again, i dont recall the # of lights, but all of them are fully 100% programmable , many different colors. flashing from blue to white, red to black, any and all combinations of alternating flashing, flashing rates, pauses in between, etc. you can do a whole lot with it.
maybe one of the most functional bits on the car for $500.00
02-14-2013, 09:47 PM
#22
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tedean,
Looks MUCH better. As many know, you approach redline quicker in the lower gears, so this is a timing issue. You want to have the same "timing" between the rise of the SLM lights in EACH gear, and this staggered way is the way to do it.
Good Lord, Mike. As a training tool, it's fantastic! As Geoffrey says, it's nearly infinitely configurable, but the value is in helping the driver calibrate their foot, ***, head, whatever. It's another external stimulus (think Pavlovian response) that allows the concentration to remain on what is MOST important. for $585, it cannot be beat.
+1,000,000
Agreed. I stock 'em. I'm sure Geoffrey does, too. It's a no brainer.
Looks MUCH better. As many know, you approach redline quicker in the lower gears, so this is a timing issue. You want to have the same "timing" between the rise of the SLM lights in EACH gear, and this staggered way is the way to do it.
Mike, They are a useful tool, especially for the newer 997 Cup guys who sometimes have difficulty adapting to the non power assisted, non ABS brakes. Other functions it performs are somewhat "toyish" like flashing all the lights blue when the pit limiter is on for instance. It is an extremely flexible unit and can do a lot.
Ive been working with Geoff on all things Motec for a few years. He is one of the best. We've put SLM modules in all the cups and you can do some really nice things. He's developed some ADL2 configs for our drivers that are pretty neat. For example, he setup lock up lights so when you get wheel lockup, not only will it flash on the main display, but the SLM will light up in a certain way to visually indicate front or rear lock.
All EIGHTof tare fhe lights are fully 100% programmable , many different colors, flashing from blue to white, red to black, any and all combinations of alternating flashing, flashing rates, pauses in between, etc. you can do a whole lot with it.
maybe one of the most functional bits on the car for $585.00
All EIGHTof tare fhe lights are fully 100% programmable , many different colors, flashing from blue to white, red to black, any and all combinations of alternating flashing, flashing rates, pauses in between, etc. you can do a whole lot with it.
maybe one of the most functional bits on the car for $585.00
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02-14-2013, 09:48 PM
#23
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I wanted the ramp up to shift point indication. It made my shift timing better. The ability to have wheel lockup indicators was a bonus.Then I wanted at method to train me to not downshift too soon as I was learning (still am ), thus the brake safe light I use (Geoffrey noted a different way to do that).
), thus the brake safe light I use (Geoffrey noted a different way to do that).I think a lot of people respond to visual stimuli better. It's really valuable.
02-15-2013, 03:33 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
My MOTEC is programmed to display brake lockup but as ZSA said, it's not so easy to read it to see if it was front or rear. Shift lights are fine the way they are, after racing for a while you can feel when you get there.
02-17-2013, 05:50 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
02-19-2013, 05:49 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You can also build a table of varying rpms/per gear to import into the SLM configuration. Remember, there is a hierarchy in that the channel order top to bottom is the priority.
I'm in class today with Chris Brown of MoTeC West here in the US and he spent quite a bit of time on this very example today. I don't have my notes so forgive my general and unpolished answer.
As usual, Geoffrey has the best information with the stepped RPM, lessening the split as the gears go up. Every driver is different and you should make sure you're not "anticipating" the top rpm/top gear situation by shifting early but instead setting Up Shift Light 4 to be triggered at your desired shift point in top.
The brake pressure light setup is easy enough once you set up channels for BP Front>300, BP Front>400,BP F>500 and BP F>600 (this example expressed in psi), but you should edge trigger it so that the RPM lights are disabled on downshifts and the Brake Pressure lights are the priority throughout slowing. I'll post examples tomorrow or Wednesday.
I'm in class today with Chris Brown of MoTeC West here in the US and he spent quite a bit of time on this very example today. I don't have my notes so forgive my general and unpolished answer.
As usual, Geoffrey has the best information with the stepped RPM, lessening the split as the gears go up. Every driver is different and you should make sure you're not "anticipating" the top rpm/top gear situation by shifting early but instead setting Up Shift Light 4 to be triggered at your desired shift point in top.
The brake pressure light setup is easy enough once you set up channels for BP Front>300, BP Front>400,BP F>500 and BP F>600 (this example expressed in psi), but you should edge trigger it so that the RPM lights are disabled on downshifts and the Brake Pressure lights are the priority throughout slowing. I'll post examples tomorrow or Wednesday.
12-24-2013, 09:45 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
12-24-2013, 09:48 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I am trying to add a dimmer to my SLM. Could anyone send me his ADL2 config file in order to set up my input correctly ? (or a screenshot) I will be using the OEM 2011 cup dimmer (well, if it is not a 1000$ poti...).
12-24-2013, 11:48 AM
#30
Rennlist Member
