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Old 07-17-2011, 02:22 PM
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claykos
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior
If you're thinking of only using 1 tank then definitely get the large 300 cu.ft. tank. Yes it's a heavy mother, but I can lift it in-n-out of my trailer or run it in with a dolly and I'm only 155 lbs. and 62 years old....

PS: A POC friend plumbed a single tank to operate 2 regs simultaneously, one for HP, one for low. He keeps it permanetly on a dolly strapped into his trailer and wheels it out at the track. Me I prefer the 2 tanks as they last longer (duh!) and I really hate loading and unloading the heavy bastards. I even keep a smaller (200?) tank and reg. in my garage at home....

We just set up our nitrogen tank (the huge one, ~4 or 5 ft tall and probably weighs 200 lbs) to run high pres for the jacks and low for the air gun. Man it was sweet at the track to pop the car up and zip the wheels on and off! The way we set it up is with the $$ high pressure regulator that you need on the bottle, then a "T" to a cheaper low pressure regulator (500 psi inlet). You run the air jacks off the other side of the T with 450 psi and the impact off the cheaper regulator at 110 psi. Worked great and much cheaper than one of the dual regulators that goes directly on the bottle.
Old 07-17-2011, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by claykos
We just set up our nitrogen tank (the huge one, ~4 or 5 ft tall and probably weighs 200 lbs) to run high pres for the jacks and low for the air gun. Man it was sweet at the track to pop the car up and zip the wheels on and off! The way we set it up is with the $$ high pressure regulator that you need on the bottle, then a "T" to a cheaper low pressure regulator (500 psi inlet). You run the air jacks off the other side of the T with 450 psi and the impact off the cheaper regulator at 110 psi. Worked great and much cheaper than one of the dual regulators that goes directly on the bottle.
Another great idea. I will look into getting a T and split it into 450 psi for air jack and 110 psi for impact wrench. Would 110 psi enough to loosen center lock at 350 ft lbs with an impact wrench?
Old 07-17-2011, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mikymu
Another great idea. I will look into getting a T and split it into 450 psi for air jack and 110 psi for impact wrench. Would 110 psi enough to loosen center lock at 350 ft lbs with an impact wrench?
Most air tools are designed to work between 100-120 psi. I have a 1/2" impact that will bust the centerlocks that have been torqued with a torque wrench. I think the gun is rated at 500 or 600 ft lbs.
Old 07-18-2011, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by claykos
Most air tools are designed to work between 100-120 psi. I have a 1/2" impact that will bust the centerlocks that have been torqued with a torque wrench. I think the gun is rated at 500 or 600 ft lbs.
My next question is what kind of air impact wrench should I get? I want one that I can throw around, step on and run over and still works. Ingersoll Rand 259?

Ingersoll Rand Features and Benefits: -Delivers 1,050 ft-lb of maximum torque in both forward and reverse. -New Ergonomic design for easy two-handed operation. -Two power settings in forward and reverse. -Light weight at only 8.8 lbs. -Silenced exhaust reduces tool noise to only 91.6 dbA while in use. The 259 is smaller in size and up to 2 lbs lighter than impacts in its class. Together with its improved weight distribution, this makes the tool easier to handle. Unlike most other 3/4" impacts, the 259 doesn't require an upgrade to a 1/2" air line.

Old 07-18-2011, 09:01 AM
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http://www.paolipitstop.com/eng/dp34_sf.php should do it.

But I think you might have to buy 2 - one for the left hand side and one for the right hand side of the car...

I have seen these in use by more than 1 F1 team - and they seem to survive some shocking treatment, and some of the models have huge torque capacity.

Is the stock socket rated for impact gun use? or are you going to get a specific socket?
Old 07-18-2011, 03:02 PM
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I use 2 Krontec "Compressed Air Bottles 15 liter with stands" (one for the Airjack and the other one for the Paoli DP Wheel gun. It works great!

I also bought the Krontec Carlifter which is used by all Carrera and Supercup-Teams. It´s quite expensive, but it´s worth it! Works great!

I can take some Pictures if you want me to.

Greetings from Germany.
Old 07-18-2011, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by v12man
http://www.paolipitstop.com/eng/dp34_sf.php should do it.

But I think you might have to buy 2 - one for the left hand side and one for the right hand side of the car...

I have seen these in use by more than 1 F1 team - and they seem to survive some shocking treatment, and some of the models have huge torque capacity.

Is the stock socket rated for impact gun use? or are you going to get a specific socket?
One for each side of the car .. hard core!

Yes, my socket is impact gun approved

Another possible option - Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2-Inch Air Impact Wrench



Max Torque (Reverse) 780 Ft/Lb (1054 Nm)
NBT 1,100 Ft/Lb (1486 Nm)
Forward Torque Range 50-550 Ft/Lb (68-746 Nm)
Blows per Minute 1,250

Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2″ Drive Titanium Duty Air ImpactoolTMProviding maximum control, power, and reliability for completing a range of vehicle maintenance jobs, the Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2-Inch Impactool sets a new standard for performance. With the best power-to-weight ratio in its class, the Impactool is built to last,


Originally Posted by Yannick-HST
I use 2 Krontec "Compressed Air Bottles 15 liter with stands" (one for the Airjack and the other one for the Paoli DP Wheel gun. It works great!

I also bought the Krontec Carlifter which is used by all Carrera and Supercup-Teams. It´s quite expensive, but it´s worth it! Works great!

I can take some Pictures if you want me to.

Greetings from Germany.
Picture will be sweet! Cheers from California
Old 07-18-2011, 09:24 PM
  #23  
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You really don't need the 3/4 drive gun especially if it's ridiculously expensive. It will use a lot more compressed gas be it Nitrogen or air. I use this IR 1/2" gun. It's 6 years old and works perfectly. Model IR2130...

Old 07-18-2011, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mikymu
One for each side of the car .. hard core!

Yes, my socket is impact gun approved

Another possible option - Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2-Inch Air Impact Wrench



Max Torque (Reverse) 780 Ft/Lb (1054 Nm)
NBT 1,100 Ft/Lb (1486 Nm)
Forward Torque Range 50-550 Ft/Lb (68-746 Nm)
Blows per Minute 1,250

Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2″ Drive Titanium Duty Air ImpactoolTMProviding maximum control, power, and reliability for completing a range of vehicle maintenance jobs, the Ingersoll-Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2-Inch Impactool sets a new standard for performance. With the best power-to-weight ratio in its class, the Impactool is built to last,




Picture will be sweet! Cheers from California


I think that's the 1/2" that we have. It's a fiberglass body - very light, but seems sturdy.
Old 07-19-2011, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior
You really don't need the 3/4 drive gun especially if it's ridiculously expensive. It will use a lot more compressed gas be it Nitrogen or air. I use this IR 1/2" gun. It's 6 years old and works perfectly. Model IR2130...
After couple years in the P-car land anything less than $2K seem cheap. Sweet, so I can use 1/2" gun. Can your IR2130 break loose Cup center lock nut?

Here is IR2135 in action. Pretty impressive


Originally Posted by claykos
I think that's the 1/2" that we have. It's a fiberglass body - very light, but seems sturdy.
Yeah, according to the manufacture website it weigh less than 4 lbs. Now that's light.

Last edited by mikymu; 07-19-2011 at 03:31 AM.
Old 07-19-2011, 03:58 AM
  #26  
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I use one of these - http://www.blo-wiz.com/products for tire air using CO2- no need for a big impact at the track, still have 5 nuts per wheel, and my little hitachi cordless (ultralight) works more than well enough - with a torque wrench as the final stage.

The key to getting an impact wrench to work properly is air flow - big connectors and short fat air pipes - just changing my connectors to 1/2 inch ones for the impact gun in my workshop at home made a huge difference to my 3/4 CP impact gun.

The other thing you should buy is the protective plastic cover that you can get from IR - that will definately protect it a bit.
Old 07-19-2011, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mikymu
After couple years in the P-car land anything less than $2K seem cheap. Sweet, so I can use 1/2" gun. Can your IR2130 break loose Cup center lock nut? Yeah, according to the manufacture website it weigh less than 4 lbs. Now that's light.
Mine easily removes the center lock but I'm pretty impressed with that lightweight 2135. The 2130 is heavy,...
Price difference appears to be about $125. ($160. vs. $285)....
Old 07-19-2011, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by claykos
We just set up our nitrogen tank (the huge one, ~4 or 5 ft tall and probably weighs 200 lbs) to run high pres for the jacks and low for the air gun. Man it was sweet at the track to pop the car up and zip the wheels on and off! The way we set it up is with the $$ high pressure regulator that you need on the bottle, then a "T" to a cheaper low pressure regulator (500 psi inlet). You run the air jacks off the other side of the T with 450 psi and the impact off the cheaper regulator at 110 psi. Worked great and much cheaper than one of the dual regulators that goes directly on the bottle.
Clay,

Glad to hear you've got your car on the track.

Any chance you could snap a pic of your Tee setup with the high pressure and low pressure regulators? I'm in the process of doing this too. Where did you find a cheaper low pressure regulator that had an input pressure of 500 psi? The cheaper ones I've seen have had maximum input pressures closer to 250 psi and hence they wouldn't work in the way you describe.

Also, do you run your airjacks at 400 psi?

It seems racers tighten their CL wheels with an air wrench (and no torque wrench). Can you or anyone describe how to do this safely?

Rob
Old 07-19-2011, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob S
Clay,

Glad to hear you've got your car on the track.

Any chance you could snap a pic of your Tee setup with the high pressure and low pressure regulators? I'm in the process of doing this too. Where did you find a cheaper low pressure regulator that had an input pressure of 500 psi? The cheaper ones I've seen have had maximum input pressures closer to 250 psi and hence they wouldn't work in the way you describe.

Also, do you run your airjacks at 400 psi?

It seems racers tighten their CL wheels with an air wrench (and no torque wrench). Can you or anyone describe how to do this safely?

Rob
I will try to remember to bring a camera with me next time I'm at the shop and take a picture. I think we got the regulator at Grainger - it was something on the order of $50 - it was either 400 or 500 psi rated, there was a big price jump to go to the 700 or 800 rated.

I run the airjacks at about 450. The left rear gets sluggish if you go lower than that.

I put the centerlocks on with the air and then put a torque wrench on them for final tightening. The airgun I have will pull them off after torqued - but it doesn't torque them up to spec unless I sit there and hammer it for awhile.
Old 07-19-2011, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob S
Clay,

Glad to hear you've got your car on the track.

Any chance you could snap a pic of your Tee setup with the high pressure and low pressure regulators? I'm in the process of doing this too. Where did you find a cheaper low pressure regulator that had an input pressure of 500 psi? The cheaper ones I've seen have had maximum input pressures closer to 250 psi and hence they wouldn't work in the way you describe.

Also, do you run your airjacks at 400 psi?

It seems racers tighten their CL wheels with an air wrench (and no torque wrench). Can you or anyone describe how to do this safely?

Rob
Yes, a picture of the T will be nice


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