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Old 05-12-2011, 09:19 AM
  #16  
hughp3
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Thanks 2000gt3. Safety is a big concern too although I feel self conscious with my new driving suit. I already wear a Hans device. Kinda like new white sneaker, need to roll in the mud or somtehing. At least I will look good when I win the DE trophy, right?
Old 05-12-2011, 03:00 PM
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GT3 Techno
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Originally Posted by hughp3
I really hope to get this damn clutch figured out. Stalling is embarrassing!
Just don't use it as a street car otherwise you will "smell" it melting pretty quickly. As soon as you feel it starts to bite, let it go and give it some throttle even if the ride is "bumpy".
Old 05-12-2011, 03:10 PM
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RSRRacer
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Don't put hoosiers on that car!

Bite the bullet and stick with slicks. Otherwise you have invested in a car with a killer suspension for nothing.

The seat should feel snug. Dont get a seat that you are able to move around in. It should be to snug that you are almost uncomfortable but does not interfere with your breathing or arm movement.
Old 05-12-2011, 03:12 PM
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analogmike
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Originally Posted by GT3 Techno
Just don't use it as a street car otherwise you will "smell" it melting pretty quickly. As soon as you feel it starts to bite, let it go and give it some throttle even if the ride is "bumpy".
right, I use my tires as a clutch when cold, they spin easier than the clutch slips. The people in pregrid are not too happy but it saves $ and embarrassment.
Old 05-12-2011, 04:41 PM
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IPguy
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Originally Posted by RSRRacer
The seat should feel snug. Dont get a seat that you are able to move around in. It should be to snug that you are almost uncomfortable but does not interfere with your breathing or arm movement.
The breathing part is important. One other fitment priority for me, does not cut off the circulation to your legs or cause them to go numb. Don't ask me how I know. Needless to say, you can't put 25lbs of (fill in the blank) in a 10lb bag, that would be over-snug.
Old 05-12-2011, 05:59 PM
  #21  
GT3 Techno
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Originally Posted by hughp3
So tires - I opted put new new Michelin's back on it. I have 2 more sets of wheels one with scrubs, don't know how old those are though. I hope these last a bit. If not I may have to try Hoosiers which are a bit nicer on the wallet. Just wanted to try the real deal once though.
Tires will be your most important consumables expense... a set of new slicks will last 8 sessions of 30 minutes max... and this is only if your are ready to drift a bit in the last 2-3 sessions ! Obviously they will last longer in your first few track days as you will get up to speed. Look at my garage
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:10 PM
  #22  
jrgordonsenior
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About that clutch... It's really the PP you should be concerned with. Don't drive the car into your trailer, get a 3,000 lb. winch and use it religiously. Heck don't even drive it slowly around the paddock to get fuel or whatever. Slipping the clutch wears out the PP and clutch prematurely.

Tires: For right now I think Hoosier slicks (not the R-compounds) are the best deal especially for someone new to the car. If you have anyone local who's racing in any of the cup series make him your new best friend and buy his take-offs.....
Old 05-12-2011, 06:59 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by hughp3
I took the dive. Sold my beloved 07 GT3 street car and bought a 04 Cup. I will have my first scare at Roebling this weekend. Car is in great shape with low hours (thanks GP) , its 2005 specs with 3.8 liter motor and Motons. Right now its just for DE's with maybe CLub Racing in the future. I decide on this path because of 2 things 1) did not want to mess up a valuable street car with mods 2.) the cup is much safer. Last 3 DE's someone has trashed their "street" car. As I see it if I shunt the GT3 is worth half, If I shunt the Cup, as long as its not bad and repaired well no one cares, its expected.

This should fun if not somewhat intimidating at first. I know one thing , that damn clutch is a PITA....
That looks like the car that came from Colorado owner. Very nice car. You made the right decision. Enjoy.
Old 05-12-2011, 11:45 PM
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hughp3
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Dyno results are in. TopSpeed DynoJet, corrected made 406WHP. I will post the dyno graph tomorrow. Its very smooth, torque from 4800 to 8000 is very flat. To compare, my 2007 GT3 on same dyno (cooler weather too) made 375whp. This will be a strong car.
Old 05-13-2011, 11:37 AM
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analogmike
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406whp is normal for a good 3.6. But your torque in the mids is really good.
Old 05-14-2011, 10:57 AM
  #26  
Ricky Boo-Boo Johnson
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Originally Posted by analogmike
406whp is normal for a good 3.6. But your torque in the mids is really good.
Do you mean good for a 3.8? He said the car had a 3.8...I have a 3.6 in my '03 and it dynos way below that and it's considered a strong motor for a 3.6...
Old 05-16-2011, 09:21 AM
  #27  
hughp3
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Sorry guys will post the dyno graph (TopSpeed) this week. Travel got in the way.

Roebling - Just finished first drive of car (or any car like this) at DarkSide event. Truly awe inspiring (thanks GoldCrest for setup). All of you have been there already but you may find this post brings back some memories.

First session was tough. Short throw clutch and light flywheel required changes to heel/toe/throttle that took some time (3 more sessions actually). Grip is massive and everything is more scalpel sharp. Even knowing I just puttering around compared to what the car could do felt like I was already much faster than my mild track prepped 997.1 GT3. Cornering speeds and grip are far, far beyond the street car. Engine is actually quite similar but much more immediate. Very nice and very enjoyable. By the end of day two, last session I posted my best lap which was a whopping 6.9 seconds faster than my best time in the street car. And I knew there was much more time that could be taken. Although for you racers who know Roebling it’s a slow time, but for me it was literally in another galaxy, a 1:17.6. I have heard the car is capable of a 1:12 or upper 11’s so I have a long ways to go but Heh that’s what I bought it for. I must say for DE events it’s a bit like cheating with point buys easily taken on the outside line. Well now that I have tasted a true race car, no, no way I can ever go back.

Tires – so 8 sessions is 8 heat cycles. How many can I expect? Last session I felt the grip starting to move the car around a bit more with some push that I had not felt before. Could be that I was pushing the laps much harder but I wonder now what I may have turned with the tires at their freshest. How would Hoosier slicks compare to the Michelin Cups if cost was a part of the equation?

Thanks all for the feedback already, car is brilliant - HughP3
Old 05-16-2011, 09:42 PM
  #28  
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Dyno Chart
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Old 05-17-2011, 01:04 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Ricky Boo-Boo Johnson
Do you mean good for a 3.8? He said the car had a 3.8...I have a 3.6 in my '03 and it dynos way below that and it's considered a strong motor for a 3.6...
I thought Gary raced that car in C3 (with a 3.6) and not GTA...

RSRRacer, true or not??
Old 06-10-2011, 05:12 PM
  #30  
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Here's the 01 specs.. 370hp, maybe 320 WHP.. 02 and 03 went up 10hp each I believe:

Decades of experience of customer sport of the Porsche AG flow into the development of the near standard racing sportscar , the new 911 GT3 Cup.
This vehicle represents the new basis of the GT generation and has been developed in accordance with the 2001 Porsche Carrera Cup regulations. It is possible to enter this car in numerous races of the Porsche Club Sport scene as well as in the Porsche Pirelli Supercup and the Porsche Carrera Cup.
With 370HP (272kW) the 911 GT3 Cup is the strongest racing car in the history of Porsche´s single marque series.


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