WTB Electric Power Steering Pump
09-20-2010, 01:48 PM
#20
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Repeat of earlier question (presumeably answered by pm): What are the electrical connections for the small blue/white & black wires on the small connector of the TRW pump?
Cheers in advance.
Cheers in advance.
09-20-2010, 02:45 PM
#21
IPguy gave me some instructions in German. Google translation below...
The short answer is 12V on the black wire turns it on. And connecting the blue/white wire is to the Alternator warning light enables it only when the engine is running. i.e. if the Alt light is on, the engine is not and the power steering stays off. 80A would kill a race battery fast. The brown wire is a digital diagnostics signal that you can ignore.
Only problem I have has is keeping the reservoir full. If you top it up, it works great for a day but eventually blows a bit of fluid out the cap. Then the next day it cavitates and assist is intermittent. So you have to top it off again. I have not yet added a catch bottle. I'm hoping that stops it by providing some expansion room.
Google German to English translation:
Connection overview ODE I gene 11 Motor
10 mm2 red => power supply (+12 V)
10 mm2 brown => ground (0 V)
0.75 mm2 blue / white => terminal 61, signal generator (V + 12)
0.75 mm2 black => Terminal 15, ignition (+12 V)
0.75 mm2 brown / white => K-Line (diagnostic port)
In electrical connection, note the following:
First, connect the two cables 10 mm2. The red line mu ft with a 80 A
Fuse (Littlefuse 299 080 (Blade) 498 080 or (Bolt-on), www.littlefuse.de)
be secured.
The engine then in normal mode (with a maximum engine speeds.
start acceleration on stand-by speed of 2660 rpm), then the
are black lead to + 12 V and connected with an interval
min. 350 ms delay, then the blue-white wire.
If the black and the blue-white line parallel to + 12 V
connected, the speed is increased by a ramp function (25 sec) to
on high-speed (3330 rpm) and then falls, if the motor in the load-free
State, back to stand-by speed.
The K-Line may not be connected without special diagnostic tool.
As hydraulic fluid is Pentosin CHF 11 S, or C $ 202 used (see
www.pentosin.de)
The short answer is 12V on the black wire turns it on. And connecting the blue/white wire is to the Alternator warning light enables it only when the engine is running. i.e. if the Alt light is on, the engine is not and the power steering stays off. 80A would kill a race battery fast. The brown wire is a digital diagnostics signal that you can ignore.
Only problem I have has is keeping the reservoir full. If you top it up, it works great for a day but eventually blows a bit of fluid out the cap. Then the next day it cavitates and assist is intermittent. So you have to top it off again. I have not yet added a catch bottle. I'm hoping that stops it by providing some expansion room.
Google German to English translation:
Connection overview ODE I gene 11 Motor
10 mm2 red => power supply (+12 V)
10 mm2 brown => ground (0 V)
0.75 mm2 blue / white => terminal 61, signal generator (V + 12)
0.75 mm2 black => Terminal 15, ignition (+12 V)
0.75 mm2 brown / white => K-Line (diagnostic port)
In electrical connection, note the following:
First, connect the two cables 10 mm2. The red line mu ft with a 80 A
Fuse (Littlefuse 299 080 (Blade) 498 080 or (Bolt-on), www.littlefuse.de)
be secured.
The engine then in normal mode (with a maximum engine speeds.
start acceleration on stand-by speed of 2660 rpm), then the
are black lead to + 12 V and connected with an interval
min. 350 ms delay, then the blue-white wire.
If the black and the blue-white line parallel to + 12 V
connected, the speed is increased by a ramp function (25 sec) to
on high-speed (3330 rpm) and then falls, if the motor in the load-free
State, back to stand-by speed.
The K-Line may not be connected without special diagnostic tool.
As hydraulic fluid is Pentosin CHF 11 S, or C $ 202 used (see
www.pentosin.de)
09-20-2010, 08:13 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
fyi... I set mine up with a dash toggle switch for the pump (black wire in case above). I just flip it on with all the other switches after I start the car. I like this because if I'm moving the car around without motor running i can run the PS pump and steer easy as pie. The one I have (seen earlier in this post), only runs under load. Had no battery issues and I have very small race battery.
09-21-2010, 05:58 PM
#23
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Thanks for the info Peter. We'll be trying the system as soon as the rack is back from reconditioning & I'll be sure to post an update with how we have got on with it.
01-06-2016, 11:40 PM
#25
I don't think so. It has an enable wire that controls a standby mode but it's not very useful IMHO. Just turn it on and drive. The blue/white goes to the alternator bulb to keep it from running without the engine running. The alternator field is the enabler to detect if the engine is turning.
Just to add... Lately we are using the Mini pump instead. Wiring it is identical to the TRW pump. The Mini pump is half the price and much easier to get in North America. Also, it uses a separate fluid reservoir so packaging is ton easier. e.g. The pump can go down low where the OEM pump was and the reservoir can go anywhere you like up high in the engine bay. You can also run a larger reservoir for better cooling.
Just to add... Lately we are using the Mini pump instead. Wiring it is identical to the TRW pump. The Mini pump is half the price and much easier to get in North America. Also, it uses a separate fluid reservoir so packaging is ton easier. e.g. The pump can go down low where the OEM pump was and the reservoir can go anywhere you like up high in the engine bay. You can also run a larger reservoir for better cooling.
01-09-2016, 12:07 PM
#26
belt after mechanical PS pump removal
On a 6 Cup, once the electric PS pump is installed I assume you merely remove the entire mechanical pump, reservoir and roller. If so, what belt (PN?) should be used on the engine?
01-09-2016, 03:54 PM
#27
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I've seen pictures of an additional idler pulley to use when the stock pas pump is removed.
01-09-2016, 10:37 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
