Question to those who have retrofitted a electric power steering pump on a 911
03-23-2014, 08:21 AM
#1
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Question to those who have retrofitted a electric power steering pump on a 911
Just bought the 996RSR TWR electric power steering pump and have a couple of questions:
1. Can I connect this directly to the battery lead (via a proper fuse of course)?
2. Does it make sense to put a on/off switch in the cabin (and not connected to the alternator light)?
3. Am I ok with the standard alternator (the engine is a motorsport GT2 engine)?
Any other hints with regards to installation and setup?
TIA
Juha
1. Can I connect this directly to the battery lead (via a proper fuse of course)?
2. Does it make sense to put a on/off switch in the cabin (and not connected to the alternator light)?
3. Am I ok with the standard alternator (the engine is a motorsport GT2 engine)?
Any other hints with regards to installation and setup?
TIA
Juha
03-24-2014, 02:31 PM
#2
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RSR electro-hydraulic steering
Hello all, Juha,
I've done the conversion last summer on my 996C2. Most of the text below relates to a 996, but the 993 is close in terms of things to think of. Specifically, it might be difficult to source a replacement pulley. You'll have to be creative there.
You have to connect the thick red wire to the battery (short wire, big diameter) through an 80A fuse. Thick brown wire goes to ground preferably to the battery ground. Current draw (as measured at full tilt) approx. 6A. Your alternator should be fine unless you're running a lot of nonsense electrical loads...
Initially I had the blue-white wire on terminal 61 . It was spliced from the ABS harness (might be pin 10, blue wire) and the black wire was connected to a switched 12V power (i.e. 12V operated by ignition key). Later I suspected ABS malfunction due to splicing and modified the connection by putting blue-white and black together connected to 12V switched power via a toggle switch in the dash. The wiring schematics from the workshop manual will help you locate the proper terminals (for both wires).
I'd say the latter is OK if the car is a track toy. You switch steering on after starting and forget it. If you need to move the car without engine on, it's easy just switch it on (with ignition on). The current draw is low enough to allow you to move the car around without depleting the battery.
The hardest part of the conversion is the hydraulic connection. Either you buy the Motorsport lines ($$$) or you can modify the existing ones. If you choose to modify, you can safely use standard 10mm crush-type sleeves with an high pressure hydraulic hose and connector for the pressure line and the return line (low pressure and push-on barbed connector are OK). Routing the lines can prove challenging depending on where you locate the pump and how you want it to look like.
I don't know what came with the pump. I bought mine used from a Rennlister and I had to fabricate a support that is bolted to the trunk floor. I guess Motosport has some kind of bracket ($$$).
I've added a small overflow tank on top of the cap. I'm not sure it's necessary, I've not seen a hint of an overflow since then.
I doubt you'll notice any adverse effect due to this mod. I'm very happy I did it. If you want, I have few pics of what I've done (pm me I'm not that good at posting pictures...).
Ooops, I almost forgot.
If you want to save weight, you'll have to remove the mechanical pump and the associated lines. Lines are a bitch to remove. The pump comes out relatively easily, but you'll have to source a new idle pulley and belt. I found mine here http://store.gospecracing.com/gsrele...ngpumpkit.aspx (I hope it's allowed to quote vendors...). They have all the required parts BTW, pulley, belt, bracket, even hydraulic connector if you need them.
Good luck, it's a very satisfactory mod. Not easy, but I just love to hear the pump whining when I switch it on
I've done the conversion last summer on my 996C2. Most of the text below relates to a 996, but the 993 is close in terms of things to think of. Specifically, it might be difficult to source a replacement pulley. You'll have to be creative there.
You have to connect the thick red wire to the battery (short wire, big diameter) through an 80A fuse. Thick brown wire goes to ground preferably to the battery ground. Current draw (as measured at full tilt) approx. 6A. Your alternator should be fine unless you're running a lot of nonsense electrical loads...
Initially I had the blue-white wire on terminal 61 . It was spliced from the ABS harness (might be pin 10, blue wire) and the black wire was connected to a switched 12V power (i.e. 12V operated by ignition key). Later I suspected ABS malfunction due to splicing and modified the connection by putting blue-white and black together connected to 12V switched power via a toggle switch in the dash. The wiring schematics from the workshop manual will help you locate the proper terminals (for both wires).
I'd say the latter is OK if the car is a track toy. You switch steering on after starting and forget it. If you need to move the car without engine on, it's easy just switch it on (with ignition on). The current draw is low enough to allow you to move the car around without depleting the battery.
The hardest part of the conversion is the hydraulic connection. Either you buy the Motorsport lines ($$$) or you can modify the existing ones. If you choose to modify, you can safely use standard 10mm crush-type sleeves with an high pressure hydraulic hose and connector for the pressure line and the return line (low pressure and push-on barbed connector are OK). Routing the lines can prove challenging depending on where you locate the pump and how you want it to look like.
I don't know what came with the pump. I bought mine used from a Rennlister and I had to fabricate a support that is bolted to the trunk floor. I guess Motosport has some kind of bracket ($$$).
I've added a small overflow tank on top of the cap. I'm not sure it's necessary, I've not seen a hint of an overflow since then.
I doubt you'll notice any adverse effect due to this mod. I'm very happy I did it. If you want, I have few pics of what I've done (pm me I'm not that good at posting pictures...).
Ooops, I almost forgot.
If you want to save weight, you'll have to remove the mechanical pump and the associated lines. Lines are a bitch to remove. The pump comes out relatively easily, but you'll have to source a new idle pulley and belt. I found mine here http://store.gospecracing.com/gsrele...ngpumpkit.aspx (I hope it's allowed to quote vendors...). They have all the required parts BTW, pulley, belt, bracket, even hydraulic connector if you need them.Good luck, it's a very satisfactory mod. Not easy, but I just love to hear the pump whining when I switch it on
Last edited by sf66; 03-24-2014 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Model specific remark added
03-25-2014, 04:56 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the very informative reply! I think this is all clear now!
Some information about my installation:
- There is no PS pump on the new Motorsport engine (it is plugged) and I have removed all the PS lines from the car.
- I bought the bracket for the pump from GSR autosport (same as you linked).
- The hoses can be easily made By any shop that has machinery for making hydraulic hoses.
Some information about my installation:
- There is no PS pump on the new Motorsport engine (it is plugged) and I have removed all the PS lines from the car.
- I bought the bracket for the pump from GSR autosport (same as you linked).
- The hoses can be easily made By any shop that has machinery for making hydraulic hoses.
03-25-2014, 03:28 PM
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It seems that you'll be done soon 
On the 996 the connections to the steering rack are some kind of proprietary straight tubing with o-rings. GSR makes adapters for AN fittings or you can modify the OEM lines.
Enjoy !
On the 996 the connections to the steering rack are some kind of proprietary straight tubing with o-rings. GSR makes adapters for AN fittings or you can modify the OEM lines.
Enjoy !
04-26-2014, 06:28 PM
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You have to connect the thick red wire to the battery (short wire, big diameter) through an 80A fuse. Thick brown wire goes to ground preferably to the battery ground. Current draw (as measured at full tilt) approx. 6A. Your alternator should be fine unless you're running a lot of nonsense electrical loads...
--Peter
08-27-2014, 12:09 PM
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Hi, Welcome to this Forum Site Here u can find lots of members Related to ur problem ,
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I suggested u for this question you have to ask to the experts , i dont know about this problem
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11-25-2015, 11:57 AM
#9
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I just had EVOMS install the Bilt Racing electro hydro pump on my 987.1 will let you know how it feels once I get it back, seems like they use a basic heavy duty relay
