I attended a DE this past weekend and another driver was using anti-seize on his lug nuts...I've never seen this application. Is this recommended? Thanks ahead.

 

Never put anti-seize on the threads,.......just on the shoulder of the lug nuts.

Thats been the specified procedure from the Factory since 1967 when they began using Fuchs wheels.

 

What!!!??? I've been doing it backwards for over 20 years!

 

LOL,..You're in good company; most people do the very same thing you do,...

 

Maybe more people read the owner's manual than we thought. My Cayman S owner's manual recommends the application of anti-seize to the threads of the lug bolts, and between the back of the nut skirt and the back of the shoulder piece that torques against the wheel. No anti-sieze would be torqued against the wheel in that case.

 

The torque spec for the wheel mounting bolts on a 964 and 993 calls for the threads to be lubed. For models prior this might be covered in a TSB from 5/85 and for the 996 and newer models Porsche specs , "Thinly grease thread, shank and under head (between screw head bearing surface and spherical cap ring) of the wheel bolts with Optimoly TA (aluminum paste). Do not grease bearing surface of the spherical cap facing the wheel. If heavily contaminated, clean bolts first with a lint-free cloth."

 

What!!!??? Steve's been doing it backwards for over 20 years!

 

LOL,.....I learned this from a Porsche engineer when I first visited the factory in 1976 and further, this was heavily discussed at several PCA national Tech Sessions I was familiar with from '78-onward.

Although I haven't seen a copy in many years, there was a Factory bulletin that prescribed "clean, dry threads with a very small amount of anti-seize on the shoulders of the alloy lug nuts to prevent galling".

Clearly, things have changed,....

FWIW, I've followed the early factory recommendations for 30+ years on a LOT of race & street cars and never damaged a lug nut, wheel stud nor warped/distorted a hub as of yet. Obviously, this may not apply to the late cars with wheel bolts, instead of studs.

I say do whatever makes one comfortable.

 

FWIW, I have been using ant-seize for 20+ yrs. on the stud threads in Porsche, never had a problem.,cheers, Sonny.

 

ive recently started to use it as my rear lugs have been sticking as they are torqued. Then, after some heat during a race session, they cant be broken loose, unless 200ftlbs or greater is used.
(set at near 80ft-lbs to start)

I used anti sieze to fix this, and for the most part , its working, but still there are few studs where it is not. i cleaned the studs and lugnuts with brake cleaner. could the lug nuts be getting old or something? they are changed about 2x a weekend, once a month plus any other repairs on the off season.

thanks,

Mark

 

Check out this product...



Locktite Quick Stix


You can pick it up at most auto parts stores. I found it at Autozone. They also have the Red and Blue thread locker in a stick.

 

Thanks, I've got an Autozone around the corner. Now I just need to sift through all the posts and decide exactly where to put it. Seams most say the threads and the juncture between the nut and the wheel. I've switched to steel lugs, but the Locktite product looks as if it is made for alum and steel alloy.

 

I had a 69 911T with Fuchs and alloy lug nuts back in 1975. While on a trip, I had a flat tire. Since I had recently bought the car, I hadn't had a chance to go over it as I usually do and check on the mechanicals. I was in a small town where I couldn't get the flat fixed properly without damaging the alloy wheel, so one of the guys in our convoy loaned me his spare. When I tried to remove the alloy lug nut, it wouldn't budge. Finally had to chisel it off and limp home with four lug nuts on the spare wheel. I have religiously lubricated the backs of alloy lug nuts whenever I remove the wheel for any reason and always ensure the threads are lubed also. I always wipe the old stuff off and apply new. I use WD40 and wipe the residue off. I have not had another problem in 31 years. I would think that using anti-sieze on the threads would be OK if the residue was also wiped off since you only need a very light film to keep the threads lubricated. I guess the method is whatever you feel good with or have experience using. I would go with the factory recommendations when in doubt.

 

Used antiseize on studs and face of lug nuts in one instance, than attempted to torque to 83 ft/lb specs...torque wrench keep turning on 2 of the nuts without "clicking" and ended up stretching the threads on those 2 studs. May have been due to a too liberal quantity of lube but has certainly made me leery of using antiseize again. Will stick to keeping studs/lugs clean, light coat of WD-40 and wipe off, and leave the antiseize for the rim contact surface.

 

That sometimes happens when anti-seize is placed on the lug nut flange (face) that touches the wheel; one may over-torque. For lug nuts, just place a little on the studs.