Cordless Impact Wrenches
#1
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Do any of you have any experience with cordless impact wrenches? I don't have the ability to do a complete air set up and was thinking that one of the cordless bat operated units might be a good alternative.
Any personal experiences or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Any personal experiences or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
#2
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I have a Makita 12V cordless that I used to use when the Boxster S was on the track. I liked it because the max torque delivered on a full charge was something like 85 ft/lbs. I knew that I couldn't overtorque the lugnuts.
Unfortunately, it also only had 85 ft/lbs in reverse, so it meant that I had to break the lugs first.
In any case, it's a hell of a lot quicker than not having anything!
Unfortunately, it also only had 85 ft/lbs in reverse, so it meant that I had to break the lugs first.
In any case, it's a hell of a lot quicker than not having anything!
#3
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I bought a 1/2 impact Chicago from Harbor Freight for $129. I use it all the time while working on the car. It removes the steel lug nuts just fine and every bolt/nut on the front and rear suspension. Except the stub axle nuts.
#4
Burning Brakes
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I have a $49 Nikoa from Kragen Auto and it has the same 85ftlbs like Glenn's Makita. I'm not satisfied because you have to break the lugs first. Then again its only $49. I have a friend (who is a mechanic) that has a $289 Milluwalkie that has over 150ftlbs of torque and it works well. I guess the Harbor Frieght one sounds good if you don't use it that much like a real mechanic.
#5
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Originally Posted by jetskied
I have a $49 Nikoa from Kragen Auto and it has the same 85ftlbs like Glenn's Makita. I'm not satisfied because you have to break the lugs first. Then again its only $49. I have a friend (who is a mechanic) that has a $289 Milluwalkie that has over 150ftlbs of torque and it works well. I guess the Harbor Frieght one sounds good if you don't use it that much like a real mechanic.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by 924martinirossi
Just getting a little off topic. If there are "real mechanics" does that mean there are "fake mechanics"?
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#8
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I have a DeWalt that has 100+ ft-Lb of torque. It works great for changing tires at the track (or at home). I can't imagine why I waited so long to buy one. HOWEVER, I would not use one for changing the aluminum lug nuts on my daily driver (or at least not to break them loose). It beats the snot out of the anodization and makes the lugs look terrible. It works just fine on steel lugs.
#10
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There are quite a few new 18V Snap On impact wrenches (3850?) on eBay for very competitive prices compared to Makita and DeWalt.
The SnapOn impact wrenches are basically bulletproof in construction.
The SnapOn impact wrenches are basically bulletproof in construction.
#13
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Originally Posted by Tom W
I have a DeWalt that has 100+ ft-Lb of torque. It works great for changing tires at the track (or at home). I can't imagine why I waited so long to buy one. HOWEVER, I would not use one for changing the aluminum lug nuts on my daily driver (or at least not to break them loose). It beats the snot out of the anodization and makes the lugs look terrible. It works just fine on steel lugs.
#14
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I have a "soft socket" and it did not appear to help much with the stock aluminum lugs - they still were damaged. For my street car, I break the lugs by hand with the soft socket and then use the cordless to speed the removal and replacement. I always do the final tightening by hand (on both cars).
At the track, it's bliss to not have to do it all by hand (not to mention so much faster). A big benefit is you don't have to break the nuts free before you jack up the car. I can pull the wheels and check the brake pads pretty easily between sessions with the help from the corless. While it's not as helpfull to use it for the street car, it still helps speed things up a bit.
At the track, it's bliss to not have to do it all by hand (not to mention so much faster). A big benefit is you don't have to break the nuts free before you jack up the car. I can pull the wheels and check the brake pads pretty easily between sessions with the help from the corless. While it's not as helpfull to use it for the street car, it still helps speed things up a bit.
#15
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IMHO, impacts are great, but I still prefer to break lug nuts loose with a bar, and then tighten with a torque wrench (prevents warped wheels). I use an air IR2131 (400 lb/ft), but even with all that power, always break the nut loose first. Yeah, it does take a little more time, but saves the nut and wheel. It is disturbing when you can see metal particles flying around when you "hammer" away with an impact. I can use it portable (very limited) with dry nitrogen or SCUBA air.
A reasonable alternative is a HD cordless drill with adapters. They work great AFTER the nut is broken loose, and can spin most fasteners, even lug nuts.
I was tempted to buy one of the electrics, but what I have fills the bill.
Kevin-Dallas
A reasonable alternative is a HD cordless drill with adapters. They work great AFTER the nut is broken loose, and can spin most fasteners, even lug nuts.
I was tempted to buy one of the electrics, but what I have fills the bill.
Kevin-Dallas