P0455 Large Leak
#1
P0455 Large Leak
Hi All, I have a 2010 Panamera Turbo with 48K miles. I am getting a check engine light with code P0455. I have already replaced the gas cap with a brand new one. I took it to an independent and he smoke tested it and said the vapor canister was bad. We got a new one from Porsche and installed. Check Engine with same code came back. Independent is now stumped. Any ideas of where he should smoke to look for leaks? Saw a thread where a vacuum hose behind the intake manifold can come loose. Can he smoke test the manifold directly?
Thanks for any advise.
Thanks for any advise.
#2
Burning Brakes
that was probably my thread, the Turbo's don't have the connection on the back of the manifold.
You'll want to get the vacuum pump checked, it is unfortunately in a rather bad spot from a service point of view though. (back of the passenger side cylinder bank)
You'll want to get the vacuum pump checked, it is unfortunately in a rather bad spot from a service point of view though. (back of the passenger side cylinder bank)
#5
Racer
I had this problem, and i can tell you i took apart my entire vacuum system trying to find it. I did have a faulty canister so I replaced that. It solved the gas pump stopping prematurely but it didn't fix this problem. I replaced the pump, first with an aftermarket one, then a Porsche one and it didn't fix the problem for me. I took apart the entire vacuum line from the pump on, purchased a vacuum gauge and checked the connection at each stage and that helped me find the problem. I thought the pump was pulling from the crankcase connection. I was wrong. The pump is a booster pump, it pulls from a small line that is behind the intake manifold. (I don't know where on Turbos it would come from). Anyways the is a rubber boot that attaches the line to a nipple on the manifold and it had come off. It's near impossible to see, I had to remove the coolant lines that were in the area to get at it. There is a tee in the small line after the pump. One side leads to the rear but there is a connection right near the shock tower where you can check vacuum. The other side leads to the intake manifold( in my non turbo car) Having said all this, if yours vacuum line is attached everywhere, they don't go bad. The pump is the likely suspect as this was the main issue i saw in Cayenne's with this issue during my investigation
#6
Hi, we have replaced the EVAP canister twice now, both OEM direct from Porsche to rule out a faulty one. Indy tested the vacuum pump and ruled that out (knew about similar faults on the Cayennes). So then we replaced the tubing that is on top of the engine and put in another gas cap. Two days later, got the same error.
How did you find the rubber boot that got disconnected? Would a smoke test show it? Indy smoked everything and it does not show up.
Indy does not know what to do and suggested I go to the dealer. I have an appointment this week.
How did you find the rubber boot that got disconnected? Would a smoke test show it? Indy smoked everything and it does not show up.
Indy does not know what to do and suggested I go to the dealer. I have an appointment this week.
#7
Racer
Hi, we have replaced the EVAP canister twice now, both OEM direct from Porsche to rule out a faulty one. Indy tested the vacuum pump and ruled that out (knew about similar faults on the Cayennes). So then we replaced the tubing that is on top of the engine and put in another gas cap. Two days later, got the same error.
How did you find the rubber boot that got disconnected? Would a smoke test show it? Indy smoked everything and it does not show up.
Indy does not know what to do and suggested I go to the dealer. I have an appointment this week.
How did you find the rubber boot that got disconnected? Would a smoke test show it? Indy smoked everything and it does not show up.
Indy does not know what to do and suggested I go to the dealer. I have an appointment this week.
Here's how I would proceed. Buy a vacuum gauge. I bought one on Amazon for $18. HFS gauge. Then there is a vacuum line joint above the right shock tower. You press the button and the line pulls apart. Place the gauge in the female end which goes to the pump and start the car. If you have a steady vacuum in the green range then everything from the pump to the manifold connection is good. If however it is fluctuating from good to bad with every rotation of the cam, then the problem is the pump or the manifold connection. The manifold connection is near impossible to see without removing a bunch of stuff. If it is good steady vacuum then then next step is to plug the line at the inlet of the vacuum canister and check vacuum there. You can test the pump if you have small hands by placing a small piece of hose on the pump directly. Hose is included in the gauge kit. If the pump vacuum is steady connected directly to the gauge, then the problem is the manifold connection not the pump. If the pump vacuum fluctuates, then replace the pump or at least the gaskets. Given the work to remove it, I would replace the pump but only if tests bad with the small port connected directly to your gauge.
Last edited by rbrunelle; 04-27-2021 at 09:26 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Hi, is this the gauge to get?
Is the below what I disconnect to test? Do I put the test gauge on the end with the plug or the order end? Once connected, start the car and give it some revs to monitor the gauge.
Thanks for all the help!
Is the below what I disconnect to test? Do I put the test gauge on the end with the plug or the order end? Once connected, start the car and give it some revs to monitor the gauge.
Thanks for all the help!
#9
Racer
That's the correct gauge and location. No need to plug the other end of the tube and no need to rev the car, just start it. It is a mechanical pump that turns with the camshaft. The gauge needs to connect to the female end which is connected to the pump. I was able to use a small plastic tube a few inches long, I used a piece of ice maker plastic tubing and inserted it into the female end and placed the rubber hose from the gauge on the other end of the tubing. Any 1/4" OD tubing should work. There is an o-ring in that connecter which seals along the outside of the plastic tubing. If you remove the triangular trim panel, everything is easier to get at in that area. Let me know the results of your test and I can guide through the next step if the pump and manifiold test passes or fails
The following users liked this post:
ultramens (04-27-2021)
#10
Hello, I just got back from Porsche of Orlando. They are saying that the Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid (PN: 94811002074) is bad. They quoted me 1300 to replace. Once replaced, they want to smoke test it.
Here is the funny part....I went back to my Indy and gave them the part number. Per my Indy, they already replaced this part when they were trouble shooting. So now I am really stuck, even the "Pros" at Porsche does not know. I am waiting for the vacuum pump gauge to get here so I can follow rbrunelle's steps.
Here is the funny part....I went back to my Indy and gave them the part number. Per my Indy, they already replaced this part when they were trouble shooting. So now I am really stuck, even the "Pros" at Porsche does not know. I am waiting for the vacuum pump gauge to get here so I can follow rbrunelle's steps.
#11
Burning Brakes
Sadly dealers tend to just "throw" parts at a problem, especially if it isn't an easy one.
The following users liked this post:
Mr Tee (04-28-2021)
#12
Hello, so i got the gauge and hooked it up. The pressure was just bouncing a little higher than 0. What should my next step be? It has to be the vacuum pump right? Please see attached picture.
Needle bouncing in the white/red.
Needle bouncing in the white/red.
#13
The bouncing needle combined with the near zero reading = you have a massive leak somewhere. Follow the instructions provided by @rbrunelle above to determine if it's on the intake side or the pump side.
#15
Racer
The bouncing needle combined with the near zero reading = you have a massive leak somewhere. Follow the instructions provided by @rbrunelle above to determine if it's on the intake side or the pump side.
faulty. Replace vacuum pump. → 477619 REMOVING AND INSTALLING VACUUM PUMP" Now for the bad news, changing the pump on the Panamera is a onerous. The first time I did it, it took me 5.5 hours and I likely knocked the hose off the manifolds without realizing it. The second time, it took me only 2.5 hours because Ihad done it before and wasn't as tentative. The instructions are in the stickies, but it important you do all the preliminary steps. From memory here are some
1. Remove wiper blades,( much easier with a wiper blade puller)
2. remove plastic trim next to windshield
3. Remove triangle trim on both sides, the the supports for those triangles
4. Remove wiper assembly
5 Remove silver strut support ( may require disconnecting several electrical cables that go through it.
6. Remove the half firewall behind the pump. (Will require disconnecting the two coolant lines that go thro that firewall, (they have quick connects at that point) , remove the vacuum line from the pump and feed it through the firewall opening. disconnect the PASM connector on the driver strut (cable is too short to pass the strut support out)
Once all that stuff is clear, you need female torque socket to disconnect the pump (three screws hold it in. )
This does sound like a lot, and it is, you will have quite a pile of stuff on the floor, put the fasteners for each piece in a sandwich baggie and mark them,
Please refer to the Workshop Manual WM 477619 removing and installing vacuum pump and WM 508119 REMOVING AND INSTALLING
CROSS PANEL (DISASSEMBLING PLENUM PANEL)
When searching for these type WM then a space then the number.
While it tells you to clamp off the 4 coolant hoses, I jambed a paper towel in each and the coolant loss was a few drops.
Only special tools you need are wiper puller and I would get an electrical disconnector tool,. Much easier and safer than using a small flat screwdriver. (UTMALL Electrical Service Tool Connector Removal Tool for VAG VW Audi Porsche) Amazon has both. They also have female torx sockets. Otherwise you need only torx screwdrivers and regular metric sockets, sizes 10 to 17.
Good luck,
Ray