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Hi Folks, I was involved in an accident. I was making a left turn when some one who was stopped at stop sign started driving prematurely and hit my left rear quarter panel. It was a very low speed impact. The max I would guess is 5-10 miles /hr.
Car drove just fine after that, no vibrations, no CEL, no suspension lights etc.
Now I had recent work done on my car, like within 3 weeks, all new tires, spark plugs, service, radiator grill motor replacement, PSE exhaust valve replacement etc, nearly $4500.
To my surprise insurance totaled my car and have offered me a fair market value adjusted to some extent based on my recent repairs. They say rear quarter panel is part of unibody frame so they have to total the car. However it doesn’t look bad. I have 72k miles on the car, I’m second owner have this car for 7 years, bought it with 1500 miles.
If I buy it back and have it repaired they will deduct 28% from my payout.
Im really inclined to get it back as salvage and someone has told me that he can fix it in 5-6k.
Please advise
Hi Folks, I was involved in an accident. I was making a left turn when some one who was stopped at stop sign started driving prematurely and hit my left rear quarter panel. It was a very low speed impact. The max I would guess is 5-10 miles /hr.
Car drove just fine after that, no vibrations, no CEL, no suspension lights etc.
Now I had recent work done on my car, like within 3 weeks, all new tires, spark plugs, service, radiator grill motor replacement, PSE exhaust valve replacement etc, nearly $4500.
To my surprise insurance totaled my car and have offered me a fair market value adjusted to some extent based on my recent repairs. They say rear quarter panel is part of unibody frame so they have to total the car. However it doesn’t look bad. I have 72k miles on the car, I’m second owner have this car for 7 years, bought it with 1500 miles.
If I buy it back and have it repaired they will deduct 28% from my payout.
Im really inclined to get it back as salvage and someone has told me that he can fix it in 5-6k.
Please advise
So let us know how this goes. The damage looks pretty light for the insurance company to total the car.
I find that low repair cost a bit dubious. There is always more that you don't see.
Looks like the wheel took a hit. Until you get into it and have a shop check for any body misalignment, you really don't know for sure. I was just reading an article about the sky rocketing costs of accident repairs on newer cars has jumped 36% in the last 5 years.
Insurance companies have lowered the bar on what constitutes a total loss. It's not like it was 30+ years ago. Unless this was a special car, I'd probably let it go and start over if the payout was fair.
Who is this "someone" who told you $5K-$6K? A guy who knows a guy? I wouldn't be surprised if that comes out to be more like $9K-$10K if fixed to where you can't really tell it was hit. But if if you don't care for perfection and especially not paint perfection, then sure, maybe $6K meaning lots more pulling, hammering, sanding, and body filling versus replacement sheet metal and bumper.
Thank you all for your input.
The reason I’m thinking about this that car drives perfect. It’s been regularly serviced at Porsche. Lots of new stuff recently done.
In regards to repair I understand that I’m not looking for a perfection. It will carry a salvage title. But if in 16-17k I can have a reasonably repaired drive able car that I know, that can always be used as a spare in home. I have already ordered a model y performance.
Just to explain a rationale behind my thought. I actually drove nearly 150 miles after that, had no issues at all,
Even if I sell it as is, I’m sure I’ll get more than 10k for it.
Thats my dashcam footage. You’ll see a black jeep stopped at stop sign that starts rolling halfway thru my left turn.
It’s a YouTube link
Thank you all for your input.
The reason I’m thinking about this that car drives perfect. It’s been regularly serviced at Porsche. Lots of new stuff recently done.
In regards to repair I understand that I’m not looking for a perfection. It will carry a salvage title. But if in 16-17k I can have a reasonably repaired drive able car that I know, that can always be used as a spare in home. I have already ordered a model y performance.
Just to explain a rationale behind my thought. I actually drove nearly 150 miles after that, had no issues at all,
Even if I sell it as is, I’m sure I’ll get more than 10k for it.
I say if you like the car get it fixed but agree with others, there is no way that is $6K in damage, probably much more. If the insurance adjuster totaled it after looking at it that's not a good sign. Are you going from a Macan Turbo to a Model Y Performance? Why the downgrade?
I say if you like the car get it fixed but agree with others, there is no way that is $6K in damage, probably much more. If the insurance adjuster totaled it after looking at it that's not a good sign. Are you going from a Macan Turbo to a Model Y Performance? Why the downgrade?
Agree. Never had an EV before. End up driving nearly 1500-2000 miles a month. It’s just the cost of new Macan. I remember the days when I got it. Sticker on this car was $92k but only with 1500 miles on the clock, Someone had just traded that in for a new 911 after 3 months. I got for 74k. Can’t even think about it these days. A Macan T will cost nearly the same now.
If you don't mind telling, what insurance company do you have? Who (your company or the other driver's) wrote your vehicle off?
Have you accepted a payout?
Did the adjuster simply wave his hand and command it totaled or has it been looked at by a shop? How many estimates have you had?
If you haven't already, I would consider taking the vehicle to an authorized Porsche body shop to have the vehicle carefully evaluated before agreeing to anything. This should not cost you anything but time.
Investigate the rules for totaled versus repaired in your state.
Note I'm NOT speaking from experience...
It might make sense to fight the insurance company using the state rules to get your non-totaled vehicle repaired, then either retain for ongoing usage, or to sell in the future.
This is contrasted w/ the insurance company snagging your car (plus all it's value) then selling it for someone to repair and use instead of you.
Educate yourself on your state rules and use those to your advantage prior to additional discussions w/ the insurance company.
Investigate the rules for totaled versus repaired in your state.
Note I'm NOT speaking from experience...
It might make sense to fight the insurance company using the state rules to get your non-totaled vehicle repaired, then either retain for ongoing usage, or to sell in the future.
This is contrasted w/ the insurance company snagging your car (plus all it's value) then selling it for someone to repair and use instead of you.
Educate yourself on your state rules and use those to your advantage prior to additional discussions w/ the insurance company.
This might require for you to hire / pay (~$500) for an independent adjuster to refute the insurance company based on an expert opinion.
Thank you all again for your input. Both mine and the on fault party have State Farm. They have been challenging to deal with. I’m in SC.
Vehicle was taken to Porsche certified auto repair shop. However the statefarm adjuster was not happy with it. Kept pushing me to take it their shop. So I guess we had bad blood to start at the very first step. Every time he called , he was annoyed.
When I spoke with body shop, they told me that they can’t bring it to factory spec since the area of damage was a part of unibody frame and replacing and welding was getting close to 75% vehicle value. There was no frame or suspension damage. And I drove car for 150 miles after accident. Drove just fine, no rattles, no CEL or suspension lights etc
Someone told me if the adjusters finds it hard to deal with body shop, they tend to total the vehicle rather than having to deal with body shop or have it repaired.
Regardless I’m getting fair market value based on mileage -10k with car back. I was hoping to keep it as a spare car after decent ( not perfect) repair as mechanically it’s been a very sound car. I never had any engine issues other than routine service Has new tires, brakes, spark plugs, service etc.
I also plan to change my insurance after this incidence. Statefarm is not pleasant to deal with.
I've attached some pics of my damage early last year. I have Geico; she had Kemper. What a PITA from Kemper. She admitted ON THE PHONE to Geico she didn't see me. Initially, they dragged their feet. Geico said not a problem. I paid, I believe, nothing. It was all covered. Took 5 weeks instead of 8. Initial claim by Porsche certified body shop was $5K. It wound up costing $11K. But, what a job they did. Perfect! They pulled off the rear bumper to prevent overspray. There was one small dent up high over the gas cap area and two new door skins. And yeah, I had a mouse nest...
You know the other option is to just drive it as is. I would have the rear alignment (do a full alignment check) if you decide to keep it. You can also find an independent body shop repair it, but I'd be leary of matching paints and such. Let us know.
Vehicle was taken to Porsche certified auto repair shop. However the statefarm adjuster was not happy with it. Kept pushing me to take it their shop. So I guess we had bad blood to start at the very first step. Every time he called , he was annoyed.
100% your choice where the vehicle is repaired. It may be that the insurance company denies some of the repair service, causing out of pocket expense because the selected shop charges more than they will pay.
Originally Posted by GTS2022
When I spoke with body shop, they told me that they can’t bring it to factory spec since the area of damage was a part of unibody frame and replacing and welding was getting close to 75% vehicle value.
If the vehicle can be properly / safely repaired and not totaled, under the limits of your state, plus that is your desire, then discover what options exist to make that happen.
Originally Posted by GTS2022
I was hoping to keep it as a spare car after decent ( not perfect) repair as mechanically it’s been a very sound car. I never had any engine issues other than routine service Has new tires, brakes, spark plugs, service etc.
If that is the plan / desire, then figure out how to have it NOT totaled.
Also, get a lawyer and sue the other party's policy for Loss of Use and for Diminished Value.