Cargraphic Headers. Whose got em?
#601
How close are the Cargraphic catted headers in sound to the Fabspeed’s? Any description would be much appreciated.
Thank you!
#603
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Bought mine from you last October before this latest group buy. I had mine coated at Swain with White Lightning, headers and cats. Then painted them with Rustoleum 2000 deg. high heat paint, using their 2000 deg primer and flat black. took about 2 cans of primer and 1.5 of flat black. I followed the instructions on the can where the painted parts are baked in an oven at increasing temperatures, 30 min hot, 30 min cool, at 250, 400 and 600 (my oven only went to 550). Didn't emit much smell, no smoke, during baking. I installed using Stage 8 bolts for header to cylinder head in 25 mm length except for the 2 passing through the bracing bracket and used 30 mm on those. This provided almost identical thread engagement as the OEM bolts considering the Cargraphics flange is quite a bit thicker than the OEM. Probably wasn't necessary, but I'm moderate OCD, so humor me. Yes, they are installed on my BS, don't have the GT4 any more, but same-same from header perspective, I bought the GT4 primary tubing OD version. Took my first drive last night with stock ECU tuning, only about a 15 mile drive. Definitely noticeable increase in torque below 4,500 RPM which is what I was looking for. I have PSE, and as far as I could tell the sound level was same as OEM headers at cruise and small throttle openings. But with pedal 3/4 to the floor, the sound is noticeably louder above 2,000 RPM and at 5,000 and above sounds awesome. I love it. I didn't buy for sound but the change is all good as far as that goes, IMO. FWIW, you don't lose more than 0.5 lbs per side compared to OEM headers if you weigh all the brackets/bolts that go with each.
Thanks to Wray for his support through the process, I am a happy BGB customer .
Cargraphics 2-piece sport headers with bracing brackets, primaries and cats Swain coated with White Lightning, painted with 2000 deg flat black over gray 2000 deg primer
Thanks to Wray for his support through the process, I am a happy BGB customer .
Cargraphics 2-piece sport headers with bracing brackets, primaries and cats Swain coated with White Lightning, painted with 2000 deg flat black over gray 2000 deg primer
Having said that, I have had at least 8 people come up to me over 7 track days to tell me they love the way my car sounds and ask what my exhaust is. The exhaust is PSE, Fabspeed X-pipe tips, and Cargraphic Sport headers. I know, this is the GT4 forum, but it's a 3.4 L of the same generation and I have the same tube diameter on my headers that are used on the 3.8L GT4 engine.
Update on the fasteners I used, after the fastener torque re-checks I described in my earlier posts, I did re-checks after 3 track weekends and found none that needed additional tightening to achieve the specified 22 lb-ft. I have no plans to use the locking clips that came with the Stage 8 fasteners. I used new gaskets on installation, torqued to spec, and rechecked and tightened some fasteners a couple of times as I described in my earlier posts, no further concerns now.
#604
#605
Here's a crappy and short video my wife did on her phone at our last event going down the main straight...this is Cargraphics Race headers with a TPC GT3 muffler conversion Cup-Style (no valves)...
#606
Okie981,
I have wrapped my Cargraphic race headers with DEI Titanium ceramic wrap and them sprayed the wrap with DEI Silicone exhaust spray. The wrap is woven and becomes frayed easily unless the silicone spray is reapplied once or twice a year. Because high velocity air can try to unwrap or fray the wrap, I have to use thin mechanic's safety wire, twisted, every six inches or so to firmly secure it. Also, the direction of the winding of the wrap influences longevity. I wrap starting at the rear (as installed) and wrap toward the front, such that the air flow tends to push the wrap down, rather than upwards due to the side of the wrap that is covered by the next loop of wrap.
I did get black flagged last year when a piece of the wrap had torn at one end and a foot or so of wrap dragged to the ground. I took a knife and cut it off. It was held safely by the mechanics wire and I got back out. In that case, the lowered car had previously grounded the pipe that hangs below the Cargraphics muffler several times and had worn through a section of the winding. It was nothing that high speed driving caused.
V6
I have wrapped my Cargraphic race headers with DEI Titanium ceramic wrap and them sprayed the wrap with DEI Silicone exhaust spray. The wrap is woven and becomes frayed easily unless the silicone spray is reapplied once or twice a year. Because high velocity air can try to unwrap or fray the wrap, I have to use thin mechanic's safety wire, twisted, every six inches or so to firmly secure it. Also, the direction of the winding of the wrap influences longevity. I wrap starting at the rear (as installed) and wrap toward the front, such that the air flow tends to push the wrap down, rather than upwards due to the side of the wrap that is covered by the next loop of wrap.
I did get black flagged last year when a piece of the wrap had torn at one end and a foot or so of wrap dragged to the ground. I took a knife and cut it off. It was held safely by the mechanics wire and I got back out. In that case, the lowered car had previously grounded the pipe that hangs below the Cargraphics muffler several times and had worn through a section of the winding. It was nothing that high speed driving caused.
V6
#607
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Okie981,
I have wrapped my Cargraphic race headers with DEI Titanium ceramic wrap and them sprayed the wrap with DEI Silicone exhaust spray. The wrap is woven and becomes frayed easily unless the silicone spray is reapplied once or twice a year. Because high velocity air can try to unwrap or fray the wrap, I have to use thin mechanic's safety wire, twisted, every six inches or so to firmly secure it. Also, the direction of the winding of the wrap influences longevity. I wrap starting at the rear (as installed) and wrap toward the front, such that the air flow tends to push the wrap down, rather than upwards due to the side of the wrap that is covered by the next loop of wrap.
I did get black flagged last year when a piece of the wrap had torn at one end and a foot or so of wrap dragged to the ground. I took a knife and cut it off. It was held safely by the mechanics wire and I got back out. In that case, the lowered car had previously grounded the pipe that hangs below the Cargraphics muffler several times and had worn through a section of the winding. It was nothing that high speed driving caused.
V6
I have wrapped my Cargraphic race headers with DEI Titanium ceramic wrap and them sprayed the wrap with DEI Silicone exhaust spray. The wrap is woven and becomes frayed easily unless the silicone spray is reapplied once or twice a year. Because high velocity air can try to unwrap or fray the wrap, I have to use thin mechanic's safety wire, twisted, every six inches or so to firmly secure it. Also, the direction of the winding of the wrap influences longevity. I wrap starting at the rear (as installed) and wrap toward the front, such that the air flow tends to push the wrap down, rather than upwards due to the side of the wrap that is covered by the next loop of wrap.
I did get black flagged last year when a piece of the wrap had torn at one end and a foot or so of wrap dragged to the ground. I took a knife and cut it off. It was held safely by the mechanics wire and I got back out. In that case, the lowered car had previously grounded the pipe that hangs below the Cargraphics muffler several times and had worn through a section of the winding. It was nothing that high speed driving caused.
V6
#608
Thanks for the info on the DEI wrap and spray. I plan to stick with the White Lightning as-is on the header tubes for now and the exhaust piping has the OEM heat shields still installed, so I'm leaving that as-is for now too. I had my cats coated with White Lightning also, and we'll see how long they hold up. After 7 track days, there are some very small areas where the ceramic looks like its cracking, probably smaller than a dime, on each cat where the exhaust exits the cats into the smaller tube. Otherwise, no signs of the ceramic degrading in any way, just the paint I applied and that's fine in areas where there's plenty of air flow while on track. I wish I had a stainless radiant shield shaped like the cats that almost completely encircled them, but with about a 1/8" gap from the surface of the cat exterior wall. This would keep a lot of radiant heat from soaking the brake lines and calipers, strut dampers, wheel bearings and CV joints, etc.. I did install the Porsche OEM radiant heat shields on the valve covers. Got them from Wray at BGB. Come in 2 pieces on each valve cover, each piece held on by 2 bolts into holes already tapped at the factory. They do a great job of blocking radiant heat from the header tubes and cats from making their way to the valve covers and coil packs. The are installed as OEM on 911 engines (not sure which ones), but not on any 981 cars. Cost was minimal, Wray can provide those details.
Never knew about them, but sounds like a great idea for those running aftermarket headers.
#609
If you have Sport headers (with cats) don't use any kind of ceramic coating on them, specially if you do track days.....trust me on this one.
#610
Thanks for the info on the DEI wrap and spray. I plan to stick with the White Lightning as-is on the header tubes for now and the exhaust piping has the OEM heat shields still installed, so I'm leaving that as-is for now too. I had my cats coated with White Lightning also, and we'll see how long they hold up. After 7 track days, there are some very small areas where the ceramic looks like its cracking, probably smaller than a dime, on each cat where the exhaust exits the cats into the smaller tube. Otherwise, no signs of the ceramic degrading in any way, just the paint I applied and that's fine in areas where there's plenty of air flow while on track. I wish I had a stainless radiant shield shaped like the cats that almost completely encircled them, but with about a 1/8" gap from the surface of the cat exterior wall. This would keep a lot of radiant heat from soaking the brake lines and calipers, strut dampers, wheel bearings and CV joints, etc.. I did install the Porsche OEM radiant heat shields on the valve covers. Got them from Wray at BGB. Come in 2 pieces on each valve cover, each piece held on by 2 bolts into holes already tapped at the factory. They do a great job of blocking radiant heat from the header tubes and cats from making their way to the valve covers and coil packs. The are installed as OEM on 911 engines (not sure which ones), but not on any 981 cars. Cost was minimal, Wray can provide those details.
V6
#611
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My big concern is that coating the converter will cause it to overheat.... Speaking from experience where wrapped headers & converters melted the converter cores in 2 DE weekends. Nearly melted a second set of headers until I found a seriouse backpressure due to the mufflers' packing melting and binding that cost 50 wheel HP. I replaced the rear exhaust with the Cargraphics Cup exhaust (whose mufflers do not have packing) and replaced the sport headers with race headers. Subsequent dyno showed all HP back. V6
#612
No photos handy but see items 10 and 11 in the diagram below. One piece attaches to cover the lower portion of the valve cover and the other piece covers the upper portion and coil packs. The upper portion is the only part you need to remove for coil pack or spark plug maintenance. They go on and come off super easy. Made out of aluminum that I'd guess is about .020" thick, rolled on the edges, so no sharp edges. The upper piece overlaps the bottom piece a bit.
If my convertors overheat and are destroyed, I'll replace with the modular straight pipe sections and move on. So far, 7 track days with these as currently coated, 6 of those days were at 92 to 98 deg. F ambient temps.
If my convertors overheat and are destroyed, I'll replace with the modular straight pipe sections and move on. So far, 7 track days with these as currently coated, 6 of those days were at 92 to 98 deg. F ambient temps.
Lower Shield, RIGHT Part #9A1-104-314-00
Lower Shield, LEFT Part #9A1-104-313-00
Upper Shield, LEFT Part #9A1-104-311-00
Upper Shield, RIGHT Part #9A1-104-312-00
#613
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Update, pulled O2 sensors on both cats and inspected front and rear of cat using USB camera. Both ends look just like they did when new other than a darker color at the outermost 1/4" near the stainless steel can. They have 7 track days on them, White Lightning coating on headers and cats.
Last edited by okie981; 08-28-2018 at 10:03 PM.
#614
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Who's ready for some race headers? I have 3 sets that just showed up to inventory, and we can offer them at $2995 shipped within the lower 48 (save the expensive inbound German shipment!)
#615