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I can confirm that there is a noticeable difference when making these adjustments. Here are my findings on this:
1. Front aero blocked, Rear wing low position, both sway bars in middle:
The car felt easy to drive with noticeable push in corner entry and mid corner.
2. Front aero open, rear wing high position, both sway bars middle:
The car felt much more planted in the rear than before but I believe the front aero creates less down force than what the rear wing adds. Therefore the car pushes more than without the aero settings!!! Lap times do confirm that this setting is faster though.
3. Front aero open, rear wing high position, front sway middle, rear sway firm:
The adjustment of the rear bar to stiff significantly helped slower speed turns and this is verified by datalogs (available if anyways cars to dig into the numbers). What I did feel though is now the rear of the car is on rails but the front is lacking. Having said this, this setup is the fastest of all with a gain of 1.5 seconds on the Bahrain International Circuit GP configuration.
The next thing I want to test is Front aero open, rear wing high, front sway soft, read sway middle. I also want to see if alignment would help with making the front end stronger.
On a final note we have confirmed that the Dunlops are quicker around the track. We have datalogs of our 3 GT4's on track and 2 have the CUP2 and 1 has the Dunlops. Data confirms Dunlops are quicker.
Awesome info!
How is the heat-cycle life between dunlops and cup 2s?
On a final note we have confirmed that the Dunlops are quicker around the track. We have datalogs of our 3 GT4's on track and 2 have the CUP2 and 1 has the Dunlops. Data confirms Dunlops are quicker.
Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
Awesome info!
How is the heat-cycle life between dunlops and cup 2s?
Before I buy into that it would be best to know if the driver with the Dunlops has driven his car with the Cup2s. Is the comparison 1 for 1 and not between different cars/drivers, are the cars set up the same, etc. A lot of the times achieved on track have a lot to do with the driver as well.
In this case I'll wait to see what orthojoe reports. He has experience with different branded Cup2s, Ferrari (K) and Porsche (N), as well as Trofeo Rs. IIRC he was trying out the Dunlops this weekend.
You guys keep going. By the time our track season rolls around next Spring, I'd like the definitive setup handed over on a silver platter. Ta very much!
Asked previously and asking again: how do you remove the front aero bits? Can't see where they are released. Anyone who could take a quick pic would be appreciated.
Asked previously and asking again: how do you remove the front aero bits? Can't see where they are released. Anyone who could take a quick pic would be appreciated.
I don't have any pictures, but it's easy to see if you look under the car, just in front of the front wheel. You'll see a whole bunch of Torx screws closest to the edge of the car. These are NOT what you want to remove (IIRC, they either hold on the bumper or the undertray). Just inboard of these are two Torx bolts that hold on a simple piece of plastic. Remove these (takes 30 seconds) and the aero insert will just about fall out. You'll open up a channel that leads from the front of the car and appears to direct air towards the brake cooling ducts. The inserts are quite small - about 6x3x1 inches. Easy peasy!
Asked previously and asking again: how do you remove the front aero bits? Can't see where they are released. Anyone who could take a quick pic would be appreciated.
See page 3 of this exact thread. I was very confused when I went to remove them myself so I added a pic of the pieces that get removed to the already posted image of the area (again all on page 3). I think that should give you the sense of it.
Asked previously and asking again: how do you remove the front aero bits? Can't see where they are released. Anyone who could take a quick pic would be appreciated.
So, I re-fitted one of my aero pieces for the purposes of photographing the removal to try to give everyone a visual. I created a GIF of the process.
T25 Torx. The first time you try to loosen the screws there may be a 'slipping' feeling as if the Torx bit is too small, but it's actually caused by little gripping ridges on the back of the screws rubbing against the plastic as you loosen them.
Hopefully this helps. I can post the individual photos if needed.
So, I re-fitted one of my aero pieces for the purposes of photographing the removal to try to give everyone a visual. I created a GIF of the process.
T25 Torx. The first time you try to loosen the screws there may be a 'slipping' feeling as if the Torx bit is too small, but it's actually caused by little gripping ridges on the back of the screws rubbing against the plastic as you loosen them.
Hopefully this helps. I can post the individual photos if needed.
Before I buy into that it would be best to know if the driver with the Dunlops has driven his car with the Cup2s. Is the comparison 1 for 1 and not between different cars/drivers, are the cars set up the same, etc. A lot of the times achieved on track have a lot to do with the driver as well.
In this case I'll wait to see what orthojoe reports. He has experience with different branded Cup2s, Ferrari (K) and Porsche (N), as well as Trofeo Rs. IIRC he was trying out the Dunlops this weekend.
$0.02
The driver of the dunlops did not drive the cup2.
You can wait and see or you can trust what the data and we are saying. The car with dunlops can brake way later than the cars with the cup2. To the point that if you brake with then cup2 at the same point as the dunlops you would end up in the gravel trap. Also mid corner speed is faster on the dunlops. We have also found the optimal tire pressures for both types of tires.
11-07-2015, 01:37 PM
