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So guys I was doin research of this product. Have a place near me that does mobile car detailing and they would come to me rt in my driveway ( cant beat that). But was wondering is it worth the 1400$. Anyone ever do it on their cars yet or any car of that matter?
OCP+ :
OCP+ is a two step coating system that bonds directly to your vehicle paint. OCP+ is a hard wearing, ceramic clear coat that provides superior resistance to scratching and protection from chemical etching due to environmental impacts. It also provides an increased level of slickness, gloss, and superior water spotting resistance. OCP+ come with a 7 year warranty as long as you maintain it to Optimum Polymer
I love it. This is my 991 during a open lapping day with ocp+.
For my GT4, I am putting it on before the ppf and then another layer after. Honestly, it's one of the best things I've done for my car. Cleaning is now so easy and it looks great everytime.
Last edited by Buteo; Apr 12, 2016 at 11:35 AM.
Reason: Spelling error
As a first time, I used 3 grades of polish as prep.
They give you an applicator and just a drop or two goes a long way. I got the 20ml as i wanted to apply 2 coats and I still had a bunch left over, perhaps the 10ml would have been sufficient.
PS - 4 hrs of prep and about 30 mins to apply and I applied over Xpel Ultimate clear bra which has seen no hazing as alluded to below.
As a side effect the first 2 times I washed the car I saw a very light "sudsing" rise up from the paint upon wetting the car to prep for washing. You gotta be retentive to notice it (guilty) and most people probably won't but Ill bet it is a side effect
Originally Posted by LexVan
Yes, these types of products are very easy to apply, once you know how to work with them, and their individual nuances (apply, wait to flash, and wipe off). But that's not what you're paying for with a proper, and professional application. It's ALL ABOUT THE PREP, and PAINT CORRECTION prior to the application. That's were the costs come into play. $1,400 seems about right for OptiCoat Pro Plus. I paid about $1,200 in September for OptiCoat Pro with some stage 1 and stage 2 paint correction.
+1, You're absolutely right but the installers need to make this clear about what the customer is getting and the amount of effort needed. Many just quote the price and anyone who has purchased products gets a raised eyebrow
Last edited by Perimeter; Apr 12, 2016 at 11:43 AM.
Opti-coat+. Search the forum for ceramic coating, Modesta, cquartz, etc. to get more info on what you are getting. These coatings are nice as they make the car a lot easier to clean. Nothing seems to stick. They aren't magic that will make your car impossible to scratch.
In this price, do they decontaminate the paint and polish it? That's an important step. If so, this is a typical price. In my area it goes for $1200. Your car will turn out pretty nice.
I'm handy with detailing so I chose to do the second step of the Opti-coat + system at home myself. $60 plus all the polishing and prep products that I already had. Optimum doesn't sell the first step to consumers. There are some other products you can buy to do it at home but all of them are less strong than the professional stuff. Plus you have to have some detailing knowledge, but it's easy to do. Just takes a long time.
Autogeek has the consumer version for under $100 and it is easy to apply and absolutely great
Yes, these types of products are very easy to apply, once you know how to work with them, and their individual nuances (apply, wait to flash, and wipe off). But that's not what you're paying for with a proper, and professional application. It's ALL ABOUT THE PREP, and PAINT CORRECTION prior to the application. That's were the costs come into play. $1,400 seems about right for OptiCoat Pro Plus. I paid about $1,200 in September for OptiCoat Pro with some stage 1 and stage 2 paint correction.
I love it. This is my 991 during a open lapping day with opti coat.
For my GT4, I am putting it on before the ppf and then another layer after. Honestly, it's one of the best things I've done for my car. Cleaning is now so easy and it looks great everytime.
Terrible idea to put it on before the PPF and then after. PPF should be applied directly to the paint. If a detailer is recommending you put down a layer of Opticoat first, they're just trying to get more money out of you. It can react badly with the adhesive in the film and turn white.
Yes, these types of products are very easy to apply, once you know how to work with them, and their individual nuances (apply, wait to flash, and wipe off). But that's not what you're paying for with a proper, and professional application. It's ALL ABOUT THE PREP, and PAINT CORRECTION prior to the application. That's were the costs come into play. $1,400 seems about right for OptiCoat Pro Plus. I paid about $1,200 in September for OptiCoat Pro with some stage 1 and stage 2 paint correction.
Bingo. I paid 1200 and it took almost 8-9 hours. With only the last 1.5 hours or so being the actual application. The majority of the time is spent getting the paint as close to perfect as possible.
Opti Coat is good but there is Cquartz Finest and others' out there. You need to do your home work and pick which one that suits your needs better. Never put these coatings on before PPF because it will void the warranty on the PPF. Xpel explicitly states not to do this.
Now- Opti-coat may be the most popular with the longest warranty but Hyundai also has a very long warranty but does that make it better than Toyota?. Opti-Coat I like for cars that are not garage queens and will see alot of road time in many seasons. I think the finish okay but not as glossy as CQuartz but a little more durable. I think Cquartz has better gloss but more suited for the weekend driver who keeps their car in the garage and does not drive in winter. For my needs I like Cquartz for the car and Opti-coat on the rims.
But through preparation before application trumps the final product used in most cases
Terrible idea to put it on before the PPF and then after. PPF should be applied directly to the paint. If a detailer is recommending you put down a layer of Opticoat first, they're just trying to get more money out of you. It can react badly with the adhesive in the film and turn white.
Good to know. And yes, a detail shop did suggest it.
The new Pro Plus has an extra step at the end to protect it while it cures. I understand OptiCoat increased their prices this year because of this. OptiCoat Pro used to be $900, including normal prep, but excluding any difficult paint correction. Now it's around $1,200. Obviously, as others have said, paint correction first, if needed, is critical.
I've had two cars get the full OptiCoat treatment and one we only did the Gloss Coat because the paint was only correctable to a point (etching and some thin paint spots already) and my detailer suggested I not do the full OptiCoat at this point on that car. I can attest that the Gloss Coat works and looks great, though I understand it will need reapplication every couple of years. Going on one year with that and it still works like day 1. That said, I wouldn't trust myself to do that as a DIY, as the car prep work still takes someone far more skilled that I to ensure the paint doesn't get damaged.
Man, I had opti coat applied to my carmine gt4 and already I've noticed light scratches especially on the roof. Given how everybody loves it, I wonder if it was actually applied to my car? I know carmine is difficult, but I put in light scratches just getting dust off the roof with a microfiber towel and ammo nyc spit shine spray wax.
^Do not sweat it. You've done the right thing protecting your car(UV, bird droppings, dirt) and making washing easy but it will still get light scratches ect. In a couple years they can lightly polish and get those small scratches out. Any car after a few washings if the light hits it a certain angle you will see some light scratches. I no longer use those quick detailers any more just for the reason you specified unless it is over PPF. The quick detailer sprays are good for after you wash your car and it still wet to spray it before drying because it makes drying easier. I do not think you should be using spray wax over Opti-Coat. I know for CQuartz you can use "Reload" when it is wet before drying to rejuvenate it but no need to wax ect any more - only car soap and water.
I have CR coming but you all are scaring me with how difficult it can be. I can not believe it is any more difficult than Black or any other PTS color like Voodoo Blue.
In the end it is a car and light scratches and swirl marks can all be buffed out by a professional detailer
Optic coat +
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