991 DIY Oil Change
#76
Performed my own oil change yesterday on a friends 2 Post lift.
Super easy. Let it drain thoroughly and put about 7 quarts back in before starting the little by little process of getting it to the top line of a perfect fill.
used a New filter (Mahle) from the dealer along with new O-ring and crush washer.
filled with LiquiMoly 5/40 and feeling good about things for the off season.
Really appreciate all the info in this thread.
Super easy. Let it drain thoroughly and put about 7 quarts back in before starting the little by little process of getting it to the top line of a perfect fill.
used a New filter (Mahle) from the dealer along with new O-ring and crush washer.
filled with LiquiMoly 5/40 and feeling good about things for the off season.
Really appreciate all the info in this thread.
#77
Rennlist Member
I just did an oil and oil filter change two days ago prior to a thorough wash for winter lay-away. This car has seen its fair share of oil changes; at least 8 so far in its 7083 miles on the odometer with 6 of them by me since I bought the 2015 911 Carrera 4 GTS in 2018.
And I remember reading a post or two where owners had oil leaking all over the engine after an oil change. Maybe they forgot to install the large green O-ring. Looking at my oil filter cover, I noted two grooves that might take the large green O-ring if you hold the cover just right. We all know that the O-ring belongs in the top groove, but I guess anything is possible if someone is in a rush or not very mechanically inclined. Also note that without coating the O-ring with oil, fully screwing down the oil filter cover might seem difficult to some and maybe it is not all the way fully seated. The O-ring creates the seal, not the 25 Nm or 18.4 lbf.ft. torque on the cover should you think to over-tighten it.
Looking at this pic, it appears as if there are two grooves in the oil filter cover...except when looking at the second photo, it'll be apparent there is only one groove, the top one.
The lower groove is where the threads to the oil filter cover end. Exactly why I cannot see inserting the O-ring into the lower groove happening. But you know how it is, anything is possible.
Even mechanics can screw up as they installed an oil filter cover in an aircraft and in the process the O-ring fell out at the club I instructed at. Needless to say, the pilot was not the most clued in to even notice it till his oil pressure dropped mid-air. Anytime you do anything with an oil seal or fitting, you always run it up to check for leaks. It ain't rocket science.
And I remember reading a post or two where owners had oil leaking all over the engine after an oil change. Maybe they forgot to install the large green O-ring. Looking at my oil filter cover, I noted two grooves that might take the large green O-ring if you hold the cover just right. We all know that the O-ring belongs in the top groove, but I guess anything is possible if someone is in a rush or not very mechanically inclined. Also note that without coating the O-ring with oil, fully screwing down the oil filter cover might seem difficult to some and maybe it is not all the way fully seated. The O-ring creates the seal, not the 25 Nm or 18.4 lbf.ft. torque on the cover should you think to over-tighten it.
Looking at this pic, it appears as if there are two grooves in the oil filter cover...except when looking at the second photo, it'll be apparent there is only one groove, the top one.
The lower groove is where the threads to the oil filter cover end. Exactly why I cannot see inserting the O-ring into the lower groove happening. But you know how it is, anything is possible.
Even mechanics can screw up as they installed an oil filter cover in an aircraft and in the process the O-ring fell out at the club I instructed at. Needless to say, the pilot was not the most clued in to even notice it till his oil pressure dropped mid-air. Anytime you do anything with an oil seal or fitting, you always run it up to check for leaks. It ain't rocket science.
The following users liked this post:
Watson (10-15-2023)
#78
Rennlist Member
I just did my first oil change yesterday on my recently purchased 2012 CS, it was not difficult at all. However, I didn't take the time to notice the second groove, then again I knew where it had to go being I had other vehicles with the similar style oil filter housing...but I can see how someone doing this for the first time could get a little confused.
Good job on pointing that out, I'm sure someone will be very very glad you did!
I do have a question regarding something else I noticed in the engine bay, there's a green cap on the left (driver's side) side, does anyone know what that's for? PDK oil fill?
Sorry pic is a little giant!
Good job on pointing that out, I'm sure someone will be very very glad you did!
I do have a question regarding something else I noticed in the engine bay, there's a green cap on the left (driver's side) side, does anyone know what that's for? PDK oil fill?
Sorry pic is a little giant!
#79
Rennlist Member
I just did my first oil change yesterday on my recently purchased 2012 CS, it was not difficult at all. However, I didn't take the time to notice the second groove, then again I knew where it had to go being I had other vehicles with the similar style oil filter housing...but I can see how someone doing this for the first time could get a little confused.
Good job on pointing that out, I'm sure someone will be very very glad you did!
I do have a question regarding something else I noticed in the engine bay, there's a green cap on the left (driver's side) side, does anyone know what that's for? PDK oil fill?
Sorry pic is a little giant!
Good job on pointing that out, I'm sure someone will be very very glad you did!
I do have a question regarding something else I noticed in the engine bay, there's a green cap on the left (driver's side) side, does anyone know what that's for? PDK oil fill?
Sorry pic is a little giant!
#81
Rennlist Member
Thank you for the info...Problem is, I don't have an Owner's Manual, still waiting for it to come in from the dealer (it's only been 5months!)
So how difficult is it to change the fluid?
Scale:
1 = Easy
10 = Very difficult
Or is it easy, but difficult to get to like say the Air Filters?
So how difficult is it to change the fluid?
Scale:
1 = Easy
10 = Very difficult
Or is it easy, but difficult to get to like say the Air Filters?
#82
Thank you for the info...Problem is, I don't have an Owner's Manual, still waiting for it to come in from the dealer (it's only been 5months!)
So how difficult is it to change the fluid?
Scale:
1 = Easy
10 = Very difficult
Or is it easy, but difficult to get to like say the Air Filters?
So how difficult is it to change the fluid?
Scale:
1 = Easy
10 = Very difficult
Or is it easy, but difficult to get to like say the Air Filters?
#83
Instructor
Thank you for the info...Problem is, I don't have an Owner's Manual, still waiting for it to come in from the dealer (it's only been 5months!)
So how difficult is it to change the fluid?
Scale:
1 = Easy
10 = Very difficult
Or is it easy, but difficult to get to like say the Air Filters?
So how difficult is it to change the fluid?
Scale:
1 = Easy
10 = Very difficult
Or is it easy, but difficult to get to like say the Air Filters?
About difficulty score... I would give it a 1.... but having done lots of things before. I judge that for instance my wife who has never changed (and not willing to and need not to) a spare tyre, changing oil would be a 11.
#84
Rennlist Member
Quite easy = 1 [or maybe 2] because of what you have to remove to access the oil filter. The fans and their housing can be removed enough out of the way that you don't need to use any prying tools or disconnect the electrical connectors. I used 6" ramps to support the back wheels of my car for easier access to the drain plug. I used empty 5 qt oil jugs to measure the amount of oil that I drained so that I would know how much new oil to put in. You don't want to over fill the oil, and if you do, it's more and messy work to remove the excess.
Of course now I have more questions...
Is the drain plug easy to identify?
Does it need a crush washer like the engine oil drain plug?
Do you know the torque value of the plug?
And you are talking about the PDCC fluid change correct?
I just noticed my post could easily be taken for a motor oil change, and not the PDCC...Green Cap.
#85
To "The Roon": I saw your reply and question for the first time today -- because I am about to do another oil and filter change on my own car which is a 2017 C2S.
I believe that the 991.1 Carrera engines [normally aspirated 3.4L and 3.8L] have a metal drain plug and metal sump [oil pan], and at least a new crush washer should be used at each oil change.
In contrast, the 991.2 Carrera engines are 3L twin turbocharged and they are equipped with a plastic sump and plastic drain plug that should be replaced with a new plug at each oil change. The new plug comes with the correct O-ring installed. There is no torque value, it's simply twist [screw] into place because the seal is determined by the difference in diameter between the cylindrical opening in the plastic sump cover and the cylindrical portion of the plug. You can use an ordinary screwdriver or the molded plastic tool [available from FCP Euro and others] to remove and install the plug. Just don't apply excessive torque when installing it. On my car which until last year was always serviced by the selling Porsche dealership, the level of twisting force is very low. You should feel a little detent being passed as the plug becomes fully seated, and there are position markings molded into the plastic sump cover to help you confirm that the plug is fully seated.
I believe that the 991.1 Carrera engines [normally aspirated 3.4L and 3.8L] have a metal drain plug and metal sump [oil pan], and at least a new crush washer should be used at each oil change.
In contrast, the 991.2 Carrera engines are 3L twin turbocharged and they are equipped with a plastic sump and plastic drain plug that should be replaced with a new plug at each oil change. The new plug comes with the correct O-ring installed. There is no torque value, it's simply twist [screw] into place because the seal is determined by the difference in diameter between the cylindrical opening in the plastic sump cover and the cylindrical portion of the plug. You can use an ordinary screwdriver or the molded plastic tool [available from FCP Euro and others] to remove and install the plug. Just don't apply excessive torque when installing it. On my car which until last year was always serviced by the selling Porsche dealership, the level of twisting force is very low. You should feel a little detent being passed as the plug becomes fully seated, and there are position markings molded into the plastic sump cover to help you confirm that the plug is fully seated.
#86
Rennlist Member
Thank you for the reply DR911s, but I was talking about doing the PDCC.
However, I did change my oil already and installed a magnetic drain plug. Oil change was very straight forward and definitely a 1 on the scale of difficulty...1 being the easiest.
I'll be doing my spark plugs/coils this weekend as well as the air filters, and if time allows, I'll install a rear camera (JoyAuto) since I have it. Although now I don't think I really need a reverse camera, oh well.
Thanks again for your advice!
However, I did change my oil already and installed a magnetic drain plug. Oil change was very straight forward and definitely a 1 on the scale of difficulty...1 being the easiest.
I'll be doing my spark plugs/coils this weekend as well as the air filters, and if time allows, I'll install a rear camera (JoyAuto) since I have it. Although now I don't think I really need a reverse camera, oh well.
Thanks again for your advice!
#87
Sorry! I missed that important distinction!