ProCoach

In my experience having sold more than three hundred fifty of these things over the last three years, the "array" of multiple antennas present in the Solo/Solo DL product works extremely well as long as there are TWO practices followed.

One, the Solo/Solo DL must be mounted under the footprint of the windshield glass, looking from directly above.

Two, the Solo/SoloDL must be mounted at least at steering column height in an open car or at least as high as the plane of the top of the dash.

Mahler9th

Thanks for the insights and suggestions. My plan is to install the antenna on the roof-- perhaps this weekend.

The rest of the installation process for EVO4 is nearly complete. One question I have is whether anyone has found a reason to have the power to EVO4 have its own dedicated on/off switch, versus switching it on automatically with the ignition/main power. I cannot think of a reason.

I hope to mount the Gdash this weekend and go for a test drive.

Matt Romanowski

I like to put the data system on it's own breaker/fuse, but have it switch with the main power. I like breakers so that they can basically be used as a switch if you want main power but the dash off for some reason (or need to reboot the dash). Either way, it's best to have it with the main ignition so it's never forgotten and works automatically.

ProCoach

Agreed.

Mahler9th

Thanks.

Everything is now wired up except for oil temperature.

I have an AIM sensor for oil temp with a 10mm thread, but my existing temp port has a 12 mm thread. I guess I can buy or make an adapter... but... before I do, do any of you have the info that would allow me to use my stock 911 oil temp sensor? If I can use my stock sensor I can save the AIM unit for tranny temp logging down the road.

I am also curious as to which page/setting/what have you in RS that I can use to see my sensors with EVO4 power on and laptop connected. I think I will need to "ring in" the TPS, and I'd like to see the AFR and brake on/off working (its a 0 or +12 VDC signal). Does teh engine need to be running to see these things on my laptop?

Thanks,

Mike

Matt Romanowski

Dash on, computer connected, and the online button in RS2.

Temp sensors are $44, so no bug deal to buy one later for the trans.

Mahler9th

Thanks. I tried that but couldn't see anything changing, e.g. when I changed the brake signal state from 0 to 12 VDC.

I know the aim sensors are relatively inexpensive but I have 2-3 Porsche units that I'd like to use if I can. If it is too much of a hassle, then so be it I will look for an adapter. Any leads on latter are appreciated. VDO have something I can try to hunt down (#240 -52).

ProCoach

Mike, that PT100 temp sensor is 1/8" NPT male.

There's a TPS wizard in the device calibration button under RS2. Use that.

More after dinner...

Mahler9th

Thanks. I see the TPS channel was not set for a 0 to +5VDC signal. I will change that setting as I have tapped to the existing line that also serves Mr. Haltech. Not sure why I couldn't see the brake signal with everything powered up.

I forgot I bought the 1/8 NPT temp sensor. I'd really prefer to use my existing ones-- seems a shame to throw them away.

It would be most valuable to have a simple video tutorial with basic install info. I am sure these questions get asked all of the time given the breadth and depth of the "documentation."

Makes me hanker to start a company...

linzman

delete

ProCoach

Matt and I repeatedly recommend that while it's ok to tap into existing 0-5V sensors, it is NOT a good idea to "piggyback" your data system on the back of crucial temp and pressure sensors that rely on resistance changes for proper function of the stock instruments and ECU's. In order for the logger to calculate the range of measure correctly, there is often internal resistance (dropping resistors) built into the logger and/or cable to the sensor. When the OTHER consumer on a sensor connected to two separate systems sees an altered resistance from the desired range, it throws both out of whack.

That's a crappy explanation of it, I'm sure Matt and Jerry can explain it better, but don't do it!

linzman

So on my 968, the water temp sensor has 2 wires on it. One for temp, one for the dash idiot light. Any reason why I can't disconnect the dash idiot light and wire it to 1 of the Gdash warning lights?

ProCoach

No reason not to do that. Good idea.

You'll need to make a channel for that switch, however, in order to trigger the alarm.

Mahler9th

That's a great idea for appropriate applications... using an existing On/Off +12 VDC warning light line for an alarm, as long as it gives the warning at a level you like.

In any case, my existing oil temp sender does not have a warning light capability like a stock engine.

To clarify my question about oil temp, I only care about it if I am going to remove the existing stock 911 combo gauge. I am leaning in that direction as of now, as I cannot think of a reason to keep it.

I'd like to use my existing sensor in its existing port if I can. I am sure someone out there has done this with a 911 oil temp sender-- there are only a few different ones for air cooled cars.

As an alternative, I am pretty sure I can buy or make an adapter for the AIM sensor's 1/8 NPT threads. And I can probably drill and tap a suitable port somewhere on the engine as a different way to get what I want.

Mr. Haltech already has a sensor for engine temp in the breather cover, and that might be a good place for dedicated AIM temp sender port. Not sure the oil temp reading would be the same as the current sensor location provides.

linzman

I don't see why that wouldn't work if you're not piggybacking off the other gauge. In fact, since the dash temp gauge isn't very easy to read, I put a new VDO temp gauge in in the 968 and it works great using that second "temperature"wire that went to the dash gauge, and I disconnected the dash gauge. I didn't use the AIM for that simply because I didn't want to have to scroll through different screens on the Gdash to look at the temps and didn't want to log them, but I'm sure it would work well. Just need to know the parameters for that sensor. I looked it up for my sensor when I bought the gauge, just to make sure, and although I don't remember the values, it seemed pretty standard across all the VDO gauges, and many other brands too. Peter, does this sound reasonable?