Oil and oil-based Leather Products
10-02-2010, 09:17 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Oil and oil-based Leather Products
The interior environment of an automobile can be extremely demanding on any material used. Temperatures range from hot dry summer days, to freezing nights. Both high and low humidity, even air conditioning that cools, but also dries. Leather's greatest enemies are; sun, heat, body oils, perspiration (that contains urea as well as organic salts and acids) and ultra violet radiation (UVR), which dries the hide, fades the colour by bleaching, and can cause the leather to fail by drying out the fibres causing the urethane and / or the hide to crack.
The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather finish used in the vehicle as the methodologies are very specific for each type
Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Automotive leather upholstery is a multi-strata urethane coating; consisting of the actual hide, colour pigmentation and the surface finish. An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three water-based pigmented base coat applications a clear water-based top coat is then applied as the final stage of the finishing process. Urethane has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour) they are not sealed per se as some liquids penetrate it easily; others stay on top dependent upon their molecule size.
The urethane (Ethyl carbamate) used for protecting automobile upholstery is classified as a semi-solid permeable membrane, being a thermosetting polymer (elastomers) it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract, following the temperature fluctuations (elasticity) of the substrate.
The urethane although very resilient to abrasion wear from entering and exiting the vehicle, still maintains its physical properties like flexibility, tactile hand and its patina
A urethanes fibre structure will stretch in all directions with no particular grain or stress pattern. The urethane surface coating will not withstand multi directional stress, however, and when it’s flexed or stretched continuously in the same place the surface coating develops minute cracks. It also has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour through a membrane or pore) they are not sealed per se as some liquids penetrate it easily; others stay on top dependent upon their molecule size.
Leather's greatest enemies are; sun, heat, body oils, perspiration (that contains urea as well as organic salts and acids) and ultra violet radiation (UVR), which dries the hide, fades the colour by bleaching, and can cause the leather to fail by drying out the fibres causing the urethane and / or the hide to crack.
Since body dirt and oil are a big stain factor in leather, be cognizant of bare skin when you are in your vehicle. If you use suntan oil or spray tan lotion, be sure to use a towel when you get back in your vehicle so that the oil does not get onto your leather. You can also use a towel when leaving the gym as body oils/ perspiration contain organic acids that will stain.
Water-based products are able to permeate deep into the hide, unlike oil, as water molecules are smaller than the molecules of urethane, which enables water-based products to permeate and provide hydration, which is essential for suppleness recovery.
Leather is very dynamic with respect to its moisture content; the leather hides needs to be kept supple. The purpose of rehydration is to restore moisture lost through evaporation, so whatever the surface finish, it has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration). The liquoring (fats and oils) that are put into the leather during the tanning process do not dry out of the leather so therefore do not need replacing.
A water-based product accomplishes this with an emulsion of micro droplets of oil (for surface lubrication) and water that permeate the leather finish and / or the polyurethane as the emulsions molecular structure is smaller than the molecules of the finished leather or the polyurethane covering.
Particulate size - you can tell how small the emulsion droplets are and in some cases how concentrated an emulsion is by its colour. Opaque white emulsions typically have a large particle size, while faintly opaque or pearlescent emulsions typically have a small particle size approaching 1µ or less.
Water - unlike other organic or hydrocarbon-based solvents, is non-flammable, odourless, non-toxic and non-sensitizing to the skin and it doesn’t impart a greasy or tacky feel to the surface of the leather
Beeswax (or any other organic or inorganic wax), even the so-called Banana Oil (it is impossible to get any oil derived from a banana, its real name; Isoamyl acetate is a chemical additive) Mink Oil, Neat’s-foot, Lanolin (Latin lāna, "wool", and oleum, "oil"), Mink Oil, Silicone oil, Tea Tree Oil and oil based conditioners. These are all damaging to urethane coated leather, as they block the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration) regardless of what they say on the products label.
Simple chemistry; urethane is hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb moisture. However a cross-linked polymer is damaged by oils which cannot penetrate the leather finish due to its particle size, which is larger than that of water (and no heat does not expand the micro pores of a urethane) oils attract dust and grime, trapping it on the surface, where it is easily transferred to any material (clothing) it comes in contact with, which along with abrasion from entering and exiting the vehicle helps to further damage the coating.
In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable. Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced chemicals and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils.
Oil vs. Water
• A water-based product accomplishes this with an emulsion of micro droplets of oil (for surface lubrication) and water that permeate the leather finish and / or the polyurethane as the emulsions molecular structure is smaller than the molecules of the finished leather or the polyurethane covering.
• Particulate size - you can tell how small the emulsion droplets are and in some cases how concentrated an emulsion is by its colour. Opaque white emulsions typically have a large particle size, while faintly opaque or pearlescent emulsions typically have a small particle size approaching 1µ or less.
Water unlike other organic or hydrocarbon-based solvents, is non-flammable, odourless, non-toxic and non-sensitizing to the skin and it doesn’t impart a greasy or tacky feel to the surface of the leather.
If oil is allowed to permeate any micro fissures or the stitching in the urethane it will delaminate from the hide releasing its adhesive bond, and it will be able to move in a different direction from the hide, which will result in surface fissures and cracking , further compounding the problem resulting in the need to replace the protective coating
In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable.
The most fundamental question to be answered before you clean or care for leather is to establish the type of leather finish used in the vehicle as the methodologies are very specific for each type
Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Automotive leather upholstery is a multi-strata urethane coating; consisting of the actual hide, colour pigmentation and the surface finish. An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three water-based pigmented base coat applications a clear water-based top coat is then applied as the final stage of the finishing process. Urethane has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour) they are not sealed per se as some liquids penetrate it easily; others stay on top dependent upon their molecule size.
The urethane (Ethyl carbamate) used for protecting automobile upholstery is classified as a semi-solid permeable membrane, being a thermosetting polymer (elastomers) it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract, following the temperature fluctuations (elasticity) of the substrate.
The urethane although very resilient to abrasion wear from entering and exiting the vehicle, still maintains its physical properties like flexibility, tactile hand and its patina
A urethanes fibre structure will stretch in all directions with no particular grain or stress pattern. The urethane surface coating will not withstand multi directional stress, however, and when it’s flexed or stretched continuously in the same place the surface coating develops minute cracks. It also has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour through a membrane or pore) they are not sealed per se as some liquids penetrate it easily; others stay on top dependent upon their molecule size.
Leather's greatest enemies are; sun, heat, body oils, perspiration (that contains urea as well as organic salts and acids) and ultra violet radiation (UVR), which dries the hide, fades the colour by bleaching, and can cause the leather to fail by drying out the fibres causing the urethane and / or the hide to crack.
Since body dirt and oil are a big stain factor in leather, be cognizant of bare skin when you are in your vehicle. If you use suntan oil or spray tan lotion, be sure to use a towel when you get back in your vehicle so that the oil does not get onto your leather. You can also use a towel when leaving the gym as body oils/ perspiration contain organic acids that will stain.
Water-based products are able to permeate deep into the hide, unlike oil, as water molecules are smaller than the molecules of urethane, which enables water-based products to permeate and provide hydration, which is essential for suppleness recovery.
Leather is very dynamic with respect to its moisture content; the leather hides needs to be kept supple. The purpose of rehydration is to restore moisture lost through evaporation, so whatever the surface finish, it has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration). The liquoring (fats and oils) that are put into the leather during the tanning process do not dry out of the leather so therefore do not need replacing.
A water-based product accomplishes this with an emulsion of micro droplets of oil (for surface lubrication) and water that permeate the leather finish and / or the polyurethane as the emulsions molecular structure is smaller than the molecules of the finished leather or the polyurethane covering.
Particulate size - you can tell how small the emulsion droplets are and in some cases how concentrated an emulsion is by its colour. Opaque white emulsions typically have a large particle size, while faintly opaque or pearlescent emulsions typically have a small particle size approaching 1µ or less.
Water - unlike other organic or hydrocarbon-based solvents, is non-flammable, odourless, non-toxic and non-sensitizing to the skin and it doesn’t impart a greasy or tacky feel to the surface of the leather
Beeswax (or any other organic or inorganic wax), even the so-called Banana Oil (it is impossible to get any oil derived from a banana, its real name; Isoamyl acetate is a chemical additive) Mink Oil, Neat’s-foot, Lanolin (Latin lāna, "wool", and oleum, "oil"), Mink Oil, Silicone oil, Tea Tree Oil and oil based conditioners. These are all damaging to urethane coated leather, as they block the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration) regardless of what they say on the products label.
Simple chemistry; urethane is hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb moisture. However a cross-linked polymer is damaged by oils which cannot penetrate the leather finish due to its particle size, which is larger than that of water (and no heat does not expand the micro pores of a urethane) oils attract dust and grime, trapping it on the surface, where it is easily transferred to any material (clothing) it comes in contact with, which along with abrasion from entering and exiting the vehicle helps to further damage the coating.
In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable. Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced chemicals and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils.
Oil vs. Water
• A water-based product accomplishes this with an emulsion of micro droplets of oil (for surface lubrication) and water that permeate the leather finish and / or the polyurethane as the emulsions molecular structure is smaller than the molecules of the finished leather or the polyurethane covering.
• Particulate size - you can tell how small the emulsion droplets are and in some cases how concentrated an emulsion is by its colour. Opaque white emulsions typically have a large particle size, while faintly opaque or pearlescent emulsions typically have a small particle size approaching 1µ or less.
Water unlike other organic or hydrocarbon-based solvents, is non-flammable, odourless, non-toxic and non-sensitizing to the skin and it doesn’t impart a greasy or tacky feel to the surface of the leather.
If oil is allowed to permeate any micro fissures or the stitching in the urethane it will delaminate from the hide releasing its adhesive bond, and it will be able to move in a different direction from the hide, which will result in surface fissures and cracking , further compounding the problem resulting in the need to replace the protective coating
In summary, an aqueous emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable.
Copyright © 2002-2010, TOGWT ™ Ltd (Established 1980) all rights reserved
10-02-2010, 10:31 AM
#2
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Thanks Jon....wealth of info.
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10-04-2010, 08:02 PM
#3
do we recommend griot's garage leather care for the coated automotive leather being described? do i understand it right that in simple terms we need water to rehydrate and cleaners to clean the upper urethane surface? simple wiping with a damp microfiber cloth should then be the best maintenance we could do for our automotive leathers
10-07-2010, 08:28 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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CliffNotes® Version
All finishes have to allow '(evaporation and hydration) i.e. the flow of moisture back and forth, the important considerations for proper leather care; is as much about (a) the state / condition of the leather you are dealing with (b) methodology used (c) product. Cleaning is a combination of all these
(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear.
(b) Hydrated - use water-based products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.
(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish protection as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.
All finishes have to allow '(evaporation and hydration) i.e. the flow of moisture back and forth, the important considerations for proper leather care; is as much about (a) the state / condition of the leather you are dealing with (b) methodology used (c) product. Cleaning is a combination of all these
(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear.
(b) Hydrated - use water-based products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.
(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish protection as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.
10-08-2010, 07:24 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
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Interior (Cockpit) Cleaning
For light dust or pollen use a tack cloth as this will ‘lift’ the dust, once the dust has been removed you can then use your normal cockpit cleaning products without the risk of causing smearing or worse scratches
Cabin - Iz einszett Cockpit Premium, an interior treatment developed specifically for the cockpit providing an original factory matte finish. For use on dash, vinyl seats, doors handles, trim, stereo/head units, steering wheel (polyurethane coated) and clear plastic. Cleans components and contains (UV) protection that prevents fading from the sun that occurs over time. The gentle formula is water-based and free of oils providing a flat matte, original showroom finish. Non-slip finish allows for application on the steering wheel and gear-shift ****
Carbon Fibre –Wipe with a clean damp micro fibre cloth and apply a very thin coat of Klasse All-In-One
Fabric seats -303™ Rug / Upholstery Cleaner & Spot Remover an industrial strength concentrate. It is designed to accomplish even the toughest, heaviest-duty cleaning jobs safely, contains no caustics, acids or solvents.
This non-flammable, non-fuming, and odourless product rinses residue free. Duragloss FC (Fabric & Carpet Cleaner) aerosol foam is a blend of surfactants, which encapsulates and gently foams away soil, oil and grease from fabric and carpet surfaces. Brush fabric and then use a hot water extractor system. Spot cleaning can be done without leaving rings on fabric. Follow with a heated water extractor system. (See also “Carpet Cleaning” article)
Leather seats – Remove surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams periodically is important as dirt / grit will abrade the stitching causing them to fail, prise them apart, then use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a foam cleaner, one section at a time, and then finally wipe off with a clean, damp micro fibre towel.
The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive (Aniline, including perforated) Nubuck, etc) leathers. Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner is a mild solvent free pump action product, which is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains. Use Leather Master Protection, as a shield against stains etc
Carbon Fibre Cloth - or carbon fibre fabrics are all names for the black woven carbon fibre reinforcement used in many of today's advanced composites.
Vinyl interior trim cleaning- the interior trim consists of the dash, vents, hard plastic surfaces and vinyl trim. These surfaces all can be cleaned using a damp micro fibre towel and a 5:1 Woolite / distilled water solution and with a water-based, anti-static cleaner Iz einszett Cockpit Premium; even at high temperatures, its thermo-stable action protects the product against break-down or 1Z Cockpit Premium (inc UV protection) as a matte finish dressing. Iz einszett Vinyl-Rubber Care + Protectant 'Tiefenpfleger'
Plastic - For all plastic surfaces (BTI Chemicals Plexus® Plastic Polish & Cleaner) including wood, as they are protected with a urethane clear coat, Blackfire One Step, Plastic Cleaner, Polish & Glaze
Seat Belts
• For spot stains use a fabric cleaner 303 ™ Cleaner & Spot Remover
• Pull the belts from the retractor and gently close the door on the belt, clean and allow to air dry before opening the door and retracting the belt. Do not use bleach, strong detergents, or dye on the seat belts as this may severely weaken them and render them ineffective in a crash.
• Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303 ™ High Tech Fabric Guard)
• While you are cleaning the belts, take the opportunity to closely inspect them for damage and security of attachment, ensure here are no cuts, tears or abrasions (you should always inspect for damage etc if they get caught by a closing door)After a while the seat belt mechanism becomes slow and / or will not retract when released.
This can be avoided by cleaning the upper anchor; as the seatbelt retracts it leaves behind a film of dirt, which builds up over time. Use compressed air to remove dust and then using a Q- tip and some Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) you can clean the seat belt anchor / retracting mechanism. Once clean add some Plexus Plastic Cleaner to provide lubrication.
Maintenance clean seat belts with 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover™ / distilled water solution
Alternative products – C-28 Seat Belt Cleaner and Spot Remover from PRO® is a non-flammable and non hazardous concentrated cleaner that safely removes dirt, oil, grease and stains from seat belts – Professional Car Care
Washable surfaces - Distilled water / Woolite 10:1 or 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover
Glass surfaces - Stoner's Invisible Glass and a (Norwex) glass cleaning cloth with a super tight knit. Eimann Fabrik Clear Vision II Glass Cleaner with a micro fibre towel
Headliner - Duragloss 451 Fabric & Carpet Cleaner Aerosol Foam (FC) is a blend of surfactants, which gently foam away soil, oil and grease from fabric and carpet surfaces. Spot cleaning can be done without leaving rings on fabrics, carpet and velour. Spray onto micro fibre towel and gently agitate surface with a very light pressure (do not soak liner as the liner may delaminate)
Wood (urethane protected) surfaces – Klasse or Zaino All-In-One (AIO)
For light dust or pollen use a tack cloth as this will ‘lift’ the dust, once the dust has been removed you can then use your normal cockpit cleaning products without the risk of causing smearing or worse scratches
Cabin - Iz einszett Cockpit Premium, an interior treatment developed specifically for the cockpit providing an original factory matte finish. For use on dash, vinyl seats, doors handles, trim, stereo/head units, steering wheel (polyurethane coated) and clear plastic. Cleans components and contains (UV) protection that prevents fading from the sun that occurs over time. The gentle formula is water-based and free of oils providing a flat matte, original showroom finish. Non-slip finish allows for application on the steering wheel and gear-shift ****
Carbon Fibre –Wipe with a clean damp micro fibre cloth and apply a very thin coat of Klasse All-In-One
Fabric seats -303™ Rug / Upholstery Cleaner & Spot Remover an industrial strength concentrate. It is designed to accomplish even the toughest, heaviest-duty cleaning jobs safely, contains no caustics, acids or solvents.
This non-flammable, non-fuming, and odourless product rinses residue free. Duragloss FC (Fabric & Carpet Cleaner) aerosol foam is a blend of surfactants, which encapsulates and gently foams away soil, oil and grease from fabric and carpet surfaces. Brush fabric and then use a hot water extractor system. Spot cleaning can be done without leaving rings on fabric. Follow with a heated water extractor system. (See also “Carpet Cleaning” article)
Leather seats – Remove surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams periodically is important as dirt / grit will abrade the stitching causing them to fail, prise them apart, then use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a foam cleaner, one section at a time, and then finally wipe off with a clean, damp micro fibre towel.
The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive (Aniline, including perforated) Nubuck, etc) leathers. Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner is a mild solvent free pump action product, which is extremely efficient for the cleaning of general soiling and water based stains. Use Leather Master Protection, as a shield against stains etc
Carbon Fibre Cloth - or carbon fibre fabrics are all names for the black woven carbon fibre reinforcement used in many of today's advanced composites.
Vinyl interior trim cleaning- the interior trim consists of the dash, vents, hard plastic surfaces and vinyl trim. These surfaces all can be cleaned using a damp micro fibre towel and a 5:1 Woolite / distilled water solution and with a water-based, anti-static cleaner Iz einszett Cockpit Premium; even at high temperatures, its thermo-stable action protects the product against break-down or 1Z Cockpit Premium (inc UV protection) as a matte finish dressing. Iz einszett Vinyl-Rubber Care + Protectant 'Tiefenpfleger'
Plastic - For all plastic surfaces (BTI Chemicals Plexus® Plastic Polish & Cleaner) including wood, as they are protected with a urethane clear coat, Blackfire One Step, Plastic Cleaner, Polish & Glaze
Seat Belts
• For spot stains use a fabric cleaner 303 ™ Cleaner & Spot Remover
• Pull the belts from the retractor and gently close the door on the belt, clean and allow to air dry before opening the door and retracting the belt. Do not use bleach, strong detergents, or dye on the seat belts as this may severely weaken them and render them ineffective in a crash.
• Once fabric is dry apply a fabric protection (303 ™ High Tech Fabric Guard)
• While you are cleaning the belts, take the opportunity to closely inspect them for damage and security of attachment, ensure here are no cuts, tears or abrasions (you should always inspect for damage etc if they get caught by a closing door)After a while the seat belt mechanism becomes slow and / or will not retract when released.
This can be avoided by cleaning the upper anchor; as the seatbelt retracts it leaves behind a film of dirt, which builds up over time. Use compressed air to remove dust and then using a Q- tip and some Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) you can clean the seat belt anchor / retracting mechanism. Once clean add some Plexus Plastic Cleaner to provide lubrication.
Maintenance clean seat belts with 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover™ / distilled water solution
Alternative products – C-28 Seat Belt Cleaner and Spot Remover from PRO® is a non-flammable and non hazardous concentrated cleaner that safely removes dirt, oil, grease and stains from seat belts – Professional Car Care
Washable surfaces - Distilled water / Woolite 10:1 or 303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover
Glass surfaces - Stoner's Invisible Glass and a (Norwex) glass cleaning cloth with a super tight knit. Eimann Fabrik Clear Vision II Glass Cleaner with a micro fibre towel
Headliner - Duragloss 451 Fabric & Carpet Cleaner Aerosol Foam (FC) is a blend of surfactants, which gently foam away soil, oil and grease from fabric and carpet surfaces. Spot cleaning can be done without leaving rings on fabrics, carpet and velour. Spray onto micro fibre towel and gently agitate surface with a very light pressure (do not soak liner as the liner may delaminate)
Wood (urethane protected) surfaces – Klasse or Zaino All-In-One (AIO)
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10-08-2010, 09:27 AM
#8
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TOGWT thank you for the list, very informative!
I would love to see some of your work, any good before and after pics you can post showing results from some of these products?
A couple of cleaners which I have found work really well.
Cory's Ultra High Gloss Piano Polish is excellent on Urethane finished wood. It has UV protection and does an excellent job creating a high gloss finish. Easy to use spray with no residue.
For glass I blend Isopropyl and Distilled water in a 60:40 Blend Respectively. No hazing and powerful enough to easily remove bugs, sap and oils.
I would love to see some of your work, any good before and after pics you can post showing results from some of these products?
A couple of cleaners which I have found work really well.
Cory's Ultra High Gloss Piano Polish is excellent on Urethane finished wood. It has UV protection and does an excellent job creating a high gloss finish. Easy to use spray with no residue.
For glass I blend Isopropyl and Distilled water in a 60:40 Blend Respectively. No hazing and powerful enough to easily remove bugs, sap and oils.
10-08-2010, 08:36 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
TOGWT - superb list ..... thanks so much. What are your thoughts on 303 Aerospace protectant for the dash. I understand that it is really important with a leather dash not to have anything that will seep into the leather and thereby cause it to lose its shape. I have heard that this product just provides the essential UV protection and no gloss.
10-12-2010, 06:50 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
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Provided you clean the surface first (303 Space Protectant doesn’t contain any cleaning agents) it’s one of the best UV protections available
10-12-2010, 06:56 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
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I've arrived at an age (68) were passing on five decades plus knowledge / experience is far more valuable to detailer’s than any of my hands-on detailing would be
Last edited by TOGWT; 10-12-2010 at 07:12 AM.
