Faded Guards red paint
#1
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Faded Guards red paint
Hi all,
I am trying to resurrect a 85 944, the paint is pretty faded, The Guards red is looking Kinda pink.
I am going to hit it with an orbital buffer but what is the best product to use?
Thanks!
I am trying to resurrect a 85 944, the paint is pretty faded, The Guards red is looking Kinda pink.
I am going to hit it with an orbital buffer but what is the best product to use?
Thanks!
#2
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If the paint is original its a singe stange paint (no clear coat)
What do you have on hand for polishes right now?
Also you will need more then a few pads as they will become overloaded with the paint (pads will turn red) and need frequent cleaning.
What do you have on hand for polishes right now?
Also you will need more then a few pads as they will become overloaded with the paint (pads will turn red) and need frequent cleaning.
#3
As gmblack3 mentioned, you want to stock up on some pads because they will turn pink / red if it's single staged paint.
Let us know what products you have available and more on the condition of the paint.
Cheers,
George
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Paint is all original, I don't have much on hand for the job since all my other cars paint is in great shape.
Most of what I have is maguires polish, canuba wax..etc
Paint is oxidized and cloudy. I hit the a part hood with some 3m polishing Compound I had laying around and it cleaned it up pretty well.
Not looking for miracles, just want to improve as much as possible.
Thanks!
Most of what I have is maguires polish, canuba wax..etc
Paint is oxidized and cloudy. I hit the a part hood with some 3m polishing Compound I had laying around and it cleaned it up pretty well.
Not looking for miracles, just want to improve as much as possible.
Thanks!
#5
bump.
similar problem on my 87 944 that I am slowly restoring.
oxidized faded hood paint. black color. probably single stage paint without clear coat.
is Klasse All in One still the finishing polish to use? or is a newer one avail?
should I use a cutting polish like Meguiars Ultimate Compound before that step?
thanks!
similar problem on my 87 944 that I am slowly restoring.
oxidized faded hood paint. black color. probably single stage paint without clear coat.
is Klasse All in One still the finishing polish to use? or is a newer one avail?
should I use a cutting polish like Meguiars Ultimate Compound before that step?
thanks!
#6
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I have polished out a few single stage guards red paints and as long as you have enough paint on the car you can expect miracles. My favorite combo for single stage is Meguiars 105 with an orange polishing pad and Meguiars 205 with a blue finishing pad.
When using the 105 I use a decent amount of pressure to partially compress the pad and I run at full speed. Be careful as you can very easly burn through paint using this approach so you really need to know what you're doing.
When using Meguairs 205 you'll want to run at medium speed and use a mild amount of pressure. The finish should look like glass when you're done.
If you want the perfect wax for single stage paint for appearance I would highly recommend Pinnacle Souveran.
I use the same approach for clear coated paint.
When using the 105 I use a decent amount of pressure to partially compress the pad and I run at full speed. Be careful as you can very easly burn through paint using this approach so you really need to know what you're doing.
When using Meguairs 205 you'll want to run at medium speed and use a mild amount of pressure. The finish should look like glass when you're done.
If you want the perfect wax for single stage paint for appearance I would highly recommend Pinnacle Souveran.
I use the same approach for clear coated paint.
#7
Instructor
I just polished out a red E30 with oxidized paint. I ended up coating it with CQuartz Classic. It turned out great and the combo was M100 and M205. The M100 I used on a polishing pad though. The paint is usually thin by this point, so I did not go aggressive with pad option.
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Single stage paint is usually less dense i.e. ‘soft paint’ and therefore easier to correct than clear coat, as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in an abrasive polish IMO single stage paint has a richer gloss than a clear coat finish
For severely oxidized paint I primarily use a chemical paint cleaner (Swissvax) before utilizing the following steps-
When you use an abrasive product (polish) on a vehicle with single stage paint, you will notice paint transfer on your pads as they tend to oxidize more than clear coat systems so be prepared to clean and/or replace pads often; as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale to a an abrasive polish.
Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
Single stage paint stains very easily, remove with a 1:1 distilled white vinegar/ distilled water solution, if this non-abrasive solution doesn’t remove them try a mild abrasive polish
The Optimum Hyper range of polishes or Menzerna Intensive Polish or Meguiar's M80, with its diminishing abrasives work very well on single stage paint, removing moderate defects and nicely refining the finish, the polishing oils will restore gloss and depth. Start with Lake County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam you may also want to try an LC Green polishing foam pad.
For full richness and depth of colour and a richer look you cannot beat a single stage paint finish.
For severely oxidized paint I primarily use a chemical paint cleaner (Swissvax) before utilizing the following steps-
When you use an abrasive product (polish) on a vehicle with single stage paint, you will notice paint transfer on your pads as they tend to oxidize more than clear coat systems so be prepared to clean and/or replace pads often; as a general rule use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale to a an abrasive polish.
Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
Single stage paint stains very easily, remove with a 1:1 distilled white vinegar/ distilled water solution, if this non-abrasive solution doesn’t remove them try a mild abrasive polish
The Optimum Hyper range of polishes or Menzerna Intensive Polish or Meguiar's M80, with its diminishing abrasives work very well on single stage paint, removing moderate defects and nicely refining the finish, the polishing oils will restore gloss and depth. Start with Lake County (LC) Orange (light) cutting foam you may also want to try an LC Green polishing foam pad.
For full richness and depth of colour and a richer look you cannot beat a single stage paint finish.