"Liquid Glass"
10-13-2008, 08:40 PM
#1
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"Liquid Glass"
Needed to detail my van, been putting it off. Its a big Ford 250 conversion, high top and Burgundy colored. Today was the day but I was reminded as I pulled out my stuff I was about out of Klasse sealant. Went to a place I thought might have some to get it done today and they did not but they had "Liquid Glass".
I always wondered what it was like and really needed to get started so I bought it.
A wash and one step polish was all I planned. The Liquid Glass was next and I must say I am quite impressed. It went on slightly thicker than Klasse and dried very quickly. A microfiber buff with little elbow grease required and the finish looks really nice four hours later.
The can does not mention top coating with a wax. It does say wait 4 hours before a second coat and highly recommends multiple coats which I did do on the hood at least. Tomorrow I will do another coat all around and a third on the hood. Also will tackle the high top roof. That will be a pain.
Has anyone used this stuff? Does it last? Can you, should you, wax over the top?
Sorry no pics, it looks good but it got late in the day. Any feed back on the product would be appreciated.
I always wondered what it was like and really needed to get started so I bought it.
A wash and one step polish was all I planned. The Liquid Glass was next and I must say I am quite impressed. It went on slightly thicker than Klasse and dried very quickly. A microfiber buff with little elbow grease required and the finish looks really nice four hours later.
The can does not mention top coating with a wax. It does say wait 4 hours before a second coat and highly recommends multiple coats which I did do on the hood at least. Tomorrow I will do another coat all around and a third on the hood. Also will tackle the high top roof. That will be a pain.
Has anyone used this stuff? Does it last? Can you, should you, wax over the top?
Sorry no pics, it looks good but it got late in the day. Any feed back on the product would be appreciated.
Last edited by CT03911; 10-13-2008 at 11:11 PM. Reason: "Liquid Glass" not "Liquid Gold"
10-14-2008, 09:10 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
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All great products, I used Liquid Glass, an acrylic polymer maybe 15-20 years ago, then along came Klasse, another acrylic, which I used exclusively until I tried Zaino
All of the above can have a wax LSP applied (I thought back then ('60s) I was an uber detailer because I used Zymol wax as an LSP to LG and Klasse)
All of the above can have a wax LSP applied (I thought back then ('60s) I was an uber detailer because I used Zymol wax as an LSP to LG and Klasse)
10-14-2008, 10:52 AM
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I called Liquid Glass for info. They are sending me some literature. The person who answered the phone sounded like a machine, very little ability to discuss the product.
She said it is a carbon based polymer and would only repeat that when I asked if that is the same as an acrylic polymer. I'm thinking it is different.
On layering, she said multiple layers were essential. I asked why and if the successive layers don't really remove the first. She could not elaborate but continued to read as if from a cue card.
I asked about topcoating with wax. This she seemed clear on. She said it would streak the finish. When I mentioned other synthetic waxes can be used very nicely in conjunction with a topcoat of carnuba wax she turned on her internal tape recorder again and spouted off about how waxes seal off the paint and are then harmful, only Liquid Glass allows the surface to breath while it protects.
I hate calling companies where the people who answer are morons. I am concerned now about waxing over it though. Perhaps the "carbon" base does in fact interact with wax poorly.
She said it is a carbon based polymer and would only repeat that when I asked if that is the same as an acrylic polymer. I'm thinking it is different.
On layering, she said multiple layers were essential. I asked why and if the successive layers don't really remove the first. She could not elaborate but continued to read as if from a cue card.
I asked about topcoating with wax. This she seemed clear on. She said it would streak the finish. When I mentioned other synthetic waxes can be used very nicely in conjunction with a topcoat of carnuba wax she turned on her internal tape recorder again and spouted off about how waxes seal off the paint and are then harmful, only Liquid Glass allows the surface to breath while it protects.
I hate calling companies where the people who answer are morons. I am concerned now about waxing over it though. Perhaps the "carbon" base does in fact interact with wax poorly.
10-14-2008, 02:01 PM
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Ive used liquid glass in the past..till I discovered "Malms Exreme wax"....I had bad luck using a wax on top of the liquid glass..dulled the lustre for me. Now the liquid glass goes on my boat and the porsche gets Malms.
10-16-2008, 08:34 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
I asked about topcoating with wax. This she seemed clear on. She said it would streak the finish. When I mentioned other synthetic waxes can be used very nicely in conjunction with a topcoat of carnuba wax she turned on her internal tape recorder again and spouted off about how waxes seal off the paint and are then harmful, only Liquid Glass allows the surface to breath while it protects.
I hate calling companies where the people who answer are morons. I am concerned now about waxing over it though. Perhaps the "carbon" base does in fact interact with wax poorly.
I hate calling companies where the people who answer are morons. I am concerned now about waxing over it though. Perhaps the "carbon" base does in fact interact with wax poorly.
10-17-2008, 02:46 PM
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Race Car
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it is really, really durable. As long as you don't get bird crap or something like that on it, it will keep water beading on the car for the better part of a year. I found this out when I had to have my car at school at the "drought" kept me from doing any waxing.
The key with it is, as with many things, to be very scant with the application. If it gets too much in one spot it will dry hard and opaque there.
The key with it is, as with many things, to be very scant with the application. If it gets too much in one spot it will dry hard and opaque there.
