When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Because I have years worth of data of oil samples, going back to 2010, across 10+ cars, several dozen oil changes and time after time Mobil 1 is the worst performing oil as far as viscosity, metal wear, and protectants. So I am basing what I say purely on data. I’ll even go as far as to say Motorcraft oil is better than Mobil stuff. I change my oil every 3,000-4,000 miles (sometimes a lot sooner) and every sample goes to blackstone. I have never seen as bad oil as Mobil. Granted, this X3 isnt something I have ever used.
To be honest, it seems like you would be better off using independent test data. More scientific tests simulate the exact same conditions, something that your method lacks. Member @Schnave posted a good example of an independent rating of X3 in an oil thread recently. Mobile X3 scored very well, IMO.
Back to the OP, the drain plug torque mentioned in the DIY instructions seem to be too high. Macan and GT3 use similar size drain plugs and their torque spec is 22 ftlbs and 23 ftlbs. Does anyone have access to the porsche workshop figures? 37 ft lbs is a lot of torque for that size.
Just spoke a service advisor who kindly checked with a technician at the dealer and the torque is 22 ft lbs (30 NM). 37 ft lbs is quite a bit high for that bolt.
Update : First attempt has failed as I didn't have anything that will reach the intake/charge pipe clamps (7mm hex heads). The sockets were too tall and swivel heads wouldn't fit. So having drawers full of swivel heads, sockets, adapters, wrenches and years of doing this, I had to go get a 7mm combination wrench which will make that part of the job much easier. There is always that first time tool that you need in every car and this one was no exception.
I will take some pictures as I do the work and perhaps can update the OP with my version of the DIY. I did remove the undercarriage cover to confirm my theory around the drain plug and it was indeed the same drain plug (and the same oil pan) as my 2022 Macan S 2.9L V6. As I know for a fact the shop manual for that oil change calls for 30 NM (and I did change the oil on that car, drove it for 6000 miles before selling it and had no leaks) that adds an extra level of confidence on the torque figure.
Completed the oil change today. It was piece of cake even though you have to remove fair bit of panels to get to that filter. Here are some highlights for interested parties:
- The most difficult part of this is the removal of the two intake pipes from the filter housing. The 7mm bolts holding the clamps are very tight to loosen with a flat head. A socket doesnt fit there and the 7mm wrench takes quite a bit of patience to loosen (and clean up the dried blood from various intake parts due to punctured thumb while trying to loosen the clamp).
- You want to make sure you take it slow, dont rush. The plastic clips holding the side panels (green ones) are very fragile and will most likely break easily. You should try to remove them one at a time starting from the windshield side. For the inner ones by the hood latch, you may need to use a long trim removal tool with an angled head.
- The cross bar has 3 bolts on each side. Its extremely important that you tighten the single bolts on the side first which will pull the cross bar to the latch and then tighten the top two bolts next. These are torx 30 and they are notorious for breaking in half so hand tighten these only and dont go crazy.
- Make sure you cover the two open intake tubes once you remove the air filter housing. Even the tiniest rock/pebble falling in there or anything else is a big mess as it will go into the engine and destroy everything. I inserted a few shop towels there.
- The underbody panel bolts also need to be gentle tightened. They love to break easy or get cross threaded at the end making a simple oil change major headache. There are so many screws and the panel doesnt need all the screws to be extremely tight to be securely attached to the car. Just go easy on these screws. These screws also rust and corrode with time and if they show signs of rust, throw it out and buy new ones.
- As I said above only 22 ft lbs for the tiny drain plug. 37 ft lbs is too much. I have a much larger drain plug on the bottom sump on my GT3RS and even that one is only 30 ft lbs (this is from the workshop manual).
- The old oil that came out of my car at 3600 miles was almost black. Really bad. It was also very thick and didnt flow well. So that was concerning. Not sure if its because of the break in period or Mobil 1 shearing down to a 30 or even a 20 weight oil (will overnight a sample to blackstone and post the report here).
- My car was showing 1/4 way below full bar and I got precisely 8.8 liters of oil out. So that means the oil fill for this car is roughly 9.0 liters. I started with 8.5 quarts and added another 0.6 quarts which got the level at mid point between top and bottom. I will drive another 50 miles before adding more oil and will not add more than 3/4 of the way as I know sometimes water mist build up causes oil level sensor to read too high if you max the level (lot of info on GT3 forums on this).
I wouldn’t worry too much about the dark oil. See what the Blackstone report says. Here’s the last oil sample from my wife’s Cayenne. 12 months and only 2,475 miles on that oil. There is a very bright flashlight behind the sample bottle and it still won’t shine through!
For the intake clamps, I use a 7mm combination ratcheting box wrench with a swivel head. I use the regular wrench side to loosen the bolt, then use the ratcheting side the rest of the way. https://www.tekton.com/7-mm-flex-rat...rench-wrn57107
As for the drain plug torque specs, my tutorial was based off of the older all metal Panamera specs with the same crush washer. I may have to update my tutorial for discrepancies.
For the intake clamps, I use a 7mm combination ratcheting box wrench with a swivel head. I use the regular wrench side to loosen the bolt, then use the ratcheting side the rest of the way. https://www.tekton.com/7-mm-flex-rat...rench-wrn57107
As for the drain plug torque specs, my tutorial was based off of the older all metal Panamera specs with the same crush washer. I may have to update my tutorial for discrepancies.
Thank you for the advice, will give that a try.
Also in my case the clamps were at the 10th teeth before loosening and thats where I tightened them back to. Those clamps are known for ripping the plastic hose (or crushing the inner joint) if tightened too much and can leak if not tightened enough. I’m sure Porsche has a torque spec but no way to get a torque wrench there without removing the hood opening arm trim which I dont know how easy it is.
I wouldn’t worry too much about the dark oil. See what the Blackstone report says. Here’s the last oil sample from my wife’s Cayenne. 12 months and only 2,475 miles on that oil. There is a very bright flashlight behind the sample bottle and it still won’t shine through!
I plan to change the oil every 3,000 miles but change the filter every other oil change. So filter every 6,000 miles. My car’s oil run very hot (230F) which is I’m sure by design but that may be reason.
My oil from the GT3RS (5w40 Motul) or C7 ZR1 (Mobil’s race oil 15w50) is usually light brown or even still green sometimes at 3,000 miles.
See the Manufacturers Certificate of Approved Porsche C40 Engine Oils, attached. Of note, Liquid Moly and Ravenol are on the list. Motul was not approved as of 31 August 2021, the date of publication. They probably received the approval after publication. Approvals expire after 2 or 3 years and must undergo recertification.
Motul is now on the Approved C40 list dated July 30, 2022.
Looks like Mobile 1 approval has expired and is no longer on the approved oil list. That might explain why my dealer used Liquid Moly on my last oil service.
I started with 8.5 quarts and added another 0.6 quarts which got the level at mid point between top and bottom. I will drive another 50 miles before adding more oil and will not add more than 3/4 of the way as I know sometimes water mist build up causes oil level sensor to read too high if you max the level (lot of info on GT3 forums on this).
My dealer added oil to my car when I had a few thousand kms on it, leaving it with the indicator 3/4 of the way to the top fill line. I posted that here and got flamed by people saying they under filled the engine and didn't know what they were doing. When I had my oil changed in May, same thing - about 3/4 to top fill line. What I've noticed is it takes some time for the oil level to settle out, so not a bad idea to drive a bit before you add more.
People who drive mostly in the city may see the oil level rise as condensation builds up from short trips and adds to the volume in the crankcase. The manual mentions this in the oil consumption section saying that oil levels can appear to drop rapidly after a highway trip as the condensation will burn off (or evaporate) from the sustained higher temperatures.
I think the oil range indicator showing green means the car is OK to operate within that range. Those who want to be right at the top fill line, might find themselves over.
My dealer added oil to my car when I had a few thousand kms on it, leaving it with the indicator 3/4 of the way to the top fill line. I posted that here and got flamed by people saying they under filled the engine and didn't know what they were doing. When I had my oil changed in May, same thing - about 3/4 to top fill line. What I've noticed is it takes some time for the oil level to settle out, so not a bad idea to drive a bit before you add more.
People who drive mostly in the city may see the oil level rise as condensation builds up from short trips and adds to the volume in the crankcase. The manual mentions this in the oil consumption section saying that oil levels can appear to drop rapidly after a highway trip as the condensation will burn off (or evaporate) from the sustained higher temperatures.
I think the oil range indicator showing green means the car is OK to operate within that range. Those who want to be right at the top fill line, might find themselves over.
That is absolutely correct. I always keep the Porsches at half or 3/4 full. You will not starve the engine.
If you do go over by 100-200 ml (each bar is 200 ml), you can fix this by doing several back to back redline pulls (ideally higher gears). All piston rings leaks a little oil. You will burn some and oil level will get fixed.
That is absolutely correct. I always keep the Porsches at half or 3/4 full. You will not starve the engine.
If you do go over by 100-200 ml (each bar is 200 ml), you can fix this by doing several back to back redline pulls (ideally higher gears). All piston rings leaks a little oil. You will burn some and oil level will get fixed.
08-18-2022, 10:11 AM
