Tarek9xx

Thanks for the input, and you may be right, but to clarify, this is not the same symptom as mine. Mine was intermittent for only a day, but after wiggling the connector, it is now going on months with consistent normal operation, but no cold A/C. That is not to say that the blower does not need replacement (but it would probably be for a different reason - because again, it's operating normally as a blower). I have yet to find someone with same symptom or history of symptoms to confirm that even though blower operates correctly, there would still be a problem with the feedback signal from a bad regulator within - OR - it may be a matter of resetting per the advice in previous posts. I will certainly check that tomorrow and report back.
Thanks again

Tarek9xx

Thank you very much for that! I did the 30 minute reset and it did not change anything. So I'm at the point of 2 possible steps/scenarios:

1) Confirm the relay and fuse for the compressor valve. I think I've included them in my general checks, but could never confirm specifically which is which, especially if they're hidden somewhere. I bought manuals online, but still can't find them after several hours of looking. If anyone knows specifically the location, I would be very grateful

2) If relay and fuse are confirmed and checked good, just throw in a new blower, with the hope it's something odd/finicky within the blower regulator not communicating back to the computer. I think that would be very odd, considering the (restored) functionality of the blower, but I'm at my wits end at this point

Any and all thoughts are much appreciated

CAVU

With the engine running, confirm/select: AC MAX button lit, AC button is lit, temp window is "LO" and fan speed indicator is highest bar and blower is spinning highest. Access the area under the hood where the H and L refrigerant ports are, around the power steering and PDCC reservoirs. Touch the the two pipes to see if there is a noticeable difference in the temperature.

Tarek9xx

I had performed this check before, but just now repeated it just in case. Still both are hot. I'm still convinced an electrical issue is preventing the refrigerant from circulating. Either the compressor regulator/valve circuit, or the blower circuit. This problem happened suddenly during a heavy rainstorm. It had been ICE COLD AC when it happened. I went through all the drains, etc.

I had also started a thread and jumped on other existing related threads, but was getting no responses, which led me to starting this one. I'll include here the following info/excerpt from them:
************************************************************************ *

• "I have the Xtool diagnosis tool. I’m not fully versed in it, but was able to feel around it a bit and pulled the following DTC's:
  • 8032 Right Front Footwell fan outlet sensor short circuit/open circuit with B+
  • 8452 Communication with LIN bus (air conditioner 1)
  • Actuation test: LIN controlled motor verification run
    • Results: All tests were successful except for the following failures:
      • Successful programming status: Right extended ventilation area (Fail)
      • Successful programming status: Right extended ventilation element, left (Fail)"

************************************************************************ ***********

I have since cleared the faults (mistake?) after fiddling with the blower connector and getting it to operate normally, and now I'm not running the car long enough to get new fault codes just yet
Still looking for the relay and fuse for the compressor regulator. Any ideas on their location?
Thank you again for the help

CAVU

What have you found in the wiring diagrams?

Tarek9xx

I have a single file workshop manual, approximately 11,000 pages

On page 10827, it shows the A/C compressor valve wired as follows:

GND (Brown Wire) to GP-21 ground point in left kick panel
Positive (VIO/YEL wire) to Pin 4 in connector D, on the back of the A/C control unit. There is a symbol that I don't recognize in the path of this connection, and I'm thinking it's an LED

So should we conclude that there is no relay for the A/C compressor valve?

SSDVC

Just spitballing, but have you checked to make sure you have enough refrigerant in your system?

11bravo

Blower motors often wear out slowly. They will intermittently work perfectly, then not go to full speed, or half speed, then work fine again. It often has nothing to do with using auto control, or manual control. When they start going bad, they have a mind of their own.

I replaced the blower motor in my 2011 S after 180,000 miles. I bought a new import on ebay, and it works perfectly. If you get a new blower motor, once you have it wired up, make sure to test if through all the cycles. Though it is not a difficult job, It is not a job you want to do twice.