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Apologies for the delay here. Diagnosed it to my satisfaction, but the fix isn't fun. Turns out the issue was the short in the FR button. The button is integrated in the handle, so if there's an issue with it, the only way to fix it is to replace the handle itself.
I managed to stop the symptom by disconnecting the electrical connection from the handle to the car. Handle still works and the keyless unlock still works on that door. It just doesn’t lock when you hit the button, but it hadn’t been working anyway because of the short. I may replace the handle someday, but it’s an expense I don’t feel really adds much to the car so it’s low priority.
Interesting lesson here: If you find that your car is saying "Key Not Recognized" while you're inside with the key and the car *on*, it’s likely one of the keyless entry buttons is being activated. Apparently the error message was originally meant to convey that someone was hitting the button without the key in their pocket.
You can diagnose the issue with iCarScan by looking at the data stream. It’ll show all five buttons (incl. trunk) and tell you the signal strength of the antennas. I’d start there to see what kind of oddities you can find.
Ken
Ken,
Thanks for all of your insight on this issue. I have this problem in my 2011 Cayenne Turbo. You say that you can still unlock the door with the remote, or keyless entry, but can you lock that door after snipping the wire? I'm confused.
I tried finding the problem with my Durametric, but couldn't see anything. The Durametric has a section for each door, but when I tried I couldn't establish communication. If anyone with a Durametric has any insight as to how to see the issue, it would be appreciated.
Can you be more specific about the iCarScan OBD II reader that you're using? Is it this model? https://www.obd2tool.com/goods-10333...-easydiag.html Do you pay $39.95 / year to keep it working for each car model?
Ken,
Thanks for all of your insight on this issue. I have this problem in my 2011 Cayenne Turbo. You say that you can still unlock the door with the remote, or keyless entry, but can you lock that door after snipping the wire? I'm confused.
I tried finding the problem with my Durametric, but couldn't see anything. The Durametric has a section for each door, but when I tried I couldn't establish communication. If anyone with a Durametric has any insight as to how to see the issue, it would be appreciated.
Can you be more specific about the iCarScan OBD II reader that you're using? Is it this model? https://www.obd2tool.com/goods-10333...-easydiag.html Do you pay $39.95 / year to keep it working for each car model?
The car's lock/unlock mechanism will still work totally normally. The *only* thing that changes when you disconnect a door handle the way I describe is the keyless *lock* functionality will no longer work. Just the button on the door handle that locks the car will no longer do anything. Since the problem is that button itself is shorting, you've solved the problem by disconnecting it.
The keyless *unlock* still works, as does the regular remote, buttons inside the car, etc. The door itself works normally.
On the iCarScan, I'm not sure off the top of my head. I have a different model, but I'm not sure if the linked one is an updated version. I'd search around for the threads where it's discussed in more detail. I would probably start by troubleshooting your Durametric first, though, because that should be able to read the feed from the door handles (like you describe).
The car's lock/unlock mechanism will still work totally normally. The *only* thing that changes when you disconnect a door handle the way I describe is the keyless *lock* functionality will no longer work. Just the button on the door handle that locks the car will no longer do anything. Since the problem is that button itself is shorting, you've solved the problem by disconnecting it.
The keyless *unlock* still works, as does the regular remote, buttons inside the car, etc. The door itself works normally.
On the iCarScan, I'm not sure off the top of my head. I have a different model, but I'm not sure if the linked one is an updated version. I'd search around for the threads where it's discussed in more detail. I would probably start by troubleshooting your Durametric first, though, because that should be able to read the feed from the door handles (like you describe).
OK thanks. So the remote control and the lock button on the center console can still lock and unlock that door. It's confusing to describe the lock/unlock button as "keyless" lock/unlock, as all 3 electronic lock/unlock methods are keyless. It's a royal pain to use a key with a Cayenne. You only do so in an emergency, when the electronic function isn't working (dead battery, etc.).
Durametric has been a disappointment, to say the least. The interface is confusing, and I constantly find functions that don't work. The airbag functionality doesn't work at all (can't connect... software locks up), and the door functionality is similarly useless. I contacted Durametric about the airbag feature not working (I had a fault I needed to clear), sent them a log file, but never heard back despite repeated attempts to get an answer. I ended up buying a $129 Launch CRP123 scanner which was able to reset the airbag fault. I won't bother Durametric for this issue. I probably should have splurged for the high-end Launch x431, but that costs $700 to $1200, depending on the particular version.
<RANT> Porsche is missing an opportunity to build brand loyalty by not selling access to PIWIS. Restricting the ability to repair to dealerships is a classic example of what Fred Reichheld calls "bad profits" (in his book "The Ultimate Question: Driving Good Profits and True Growth"). Bad profits are things you do that earn more profit now, but at the cost of long-term customer loyalty. Sure, only a small subset of Porsche owners have a garage full of tools and like to wrench on their cars. But we're the influencers. Fred Reichheld is one of the 2 guys who developed the Net Promoter Score (NPS), where you ask your customers "would you recommend this product/brand to your friends or colleagues?", then subtract the detracters from the promoters. I would guess that most Rennlisters are Porsche promoters, but we would be solid 10 out of 10 promoters if Porsche really supported our right to repair. Most of us are ready help sell another Porsche or two by word of mouth recommendation to our friends (that's how I got started with P cars - a friend who is a PCA instructor / Rennlister). Porsche is in a life and death battle with Tesla right now, and while Teslas are really cool, there is nearly zero ability to repair or modify a Tesla, and that's unlikely to change. </RANT>
It's confusing to describe the lock/unlock button as "keyless" lock/unlock, as all 3 electronic lock/unlock methods are keyless.
Agreed! That's what VW named the feature, unfortunately for us humans. KESSY = KEyless aceSs SYstem. When you hit the button on the key, I guess the thought process is you're using the key?
FWIW, I don't think you need anything more than $150 iCarScan to get the data stream from the locking system. Not personally familiar with your Launch CRP123, so I couldn't tell you if that can pull it off.
Agreed! That's what VW named the feature, unfortunately for us humans. KESSY = KEyless aceSs SYstem. When you hit the button on the key, I guess the thought process is you're using the key?
FWIW, I don't think you need anything more than $150 iCarScan to get the data stream from the locking system. Not personally familiar with your Launch CRP123, so I couldn't tell you if that can pull it off.
Well, the $155 iCarScan uses the razor blade approach. You only get the functionality for each car for one year, and you have to pay $39.95 per year to keep it working.
The CRP123 supports reading live data streams, but only from the engine ECUs.
. It comes with 1 year of free software updates, but it will keep functioning beyond that. After that it's $75 per year to get updates. It claims to have full electronic diagnoses capability, like their more expensive x431 units, and live data stream viewing for all functions. If it works, I'll keep it. Otherwise I'll return it. I'll let you know.
I am having the same problem with a 2016 Turbo S. with 25,000 miles... It was overwashed in LA for 4 years but I live in az and only wash once a month........I have new batteries in fob...
Great info.......................One time it made me take the key out and re- install 3 times before it worked........... If my wife get stuck with this event..........THIS 175,000 MSRP WAGON WILL BE GONE..............
FAR TOO MANY ISSUES........
Great info and I will work on i before I give up.......
It looks like the Launch CRP Touch PRO Elite scanner is able to read the necessary codes, although it labels it as "closing button" and not lock. So it looks like the problem is with my front right door.
By the way, when I first hooked up this scanner I found a TON of DTC codes, many of which had to do with undervoltages. I just replaced the battery with a new unit, but the issues I'm having seem to be draining the battery, and even with a CTEK 5 amp maintainer hooked up I'm only able to stay at 12.5 volts. I can't imagine why this issue is pulling so much current, but I'm an electrical engineer so I'll figure that out if it persists after getting the door button issue (key not recognized) fixed. All but 6 codes were able to be cleared completely (not recurring right away). In addition to the codes above, I'm getting a couple of codes relating to the alarm siren, which I swapped out with a used (eBay) alarm a couple of months ago. I guess I should have ponied up the dough for a new one from Porsche.
It looks like the Launch CRP Touch PRO Elite scanner is able to read the necessary codes, although it labels it as "closing button" and not lock. So it looks like the problem is with my front right door.
Issue located! FR was the one that was giving me trouble as well.
You need a special tool but I made one out of an old screwdriver, bending the tip and doing a little grinding to make it smaller.
Insert the tool in this hole, grab a plastic tab and pull towards you. This releases the small plastic section at the rear of the handle. Once that is removed you can slide the handle towards the rear of the car, then remove it.
Snip the green wire (connects to pin 3) on the handle side. I cut it twice, removing a small section so it wouldn't accidentally reconnect. Worked like a charm! Thanks to kvec and everyone else for your insights. This was driving me crazy.
I'm sure it would, but you would have to get it in the right color to match your Cayenne. I just don't think the door unlock button is a necessary feature at all. With Porsche Entry and Drive, if you're near the car with your key fob, you just pull the handle once to unlock, and a second time to open the door.