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Thanks, I'm going to try tear mine out and see if it's clogged maybe or the cap diaphragm ripped.
Update: Replaced entire oil separator unit, was a breeze in getting to it. Seemed like it ran so much better with the brand new part. This feeling was short lived however...
The engine light didn't go away on its own after a couple of days of driving. I reset the CEL manually with x431. 3 days later, CEL is back.. I'm going to have to get actual professional diagnosis done here. This light is really passing me off. I will defeat it....
Wonder if this is just some sort of an electrical issue. For this I'll need to go to a specialist as I'm not great at wiring diagrams.
IIR the 2010 CS uses the same 4.8 V8 engine as the 2011.
haven't heard of many throttle body's going bad but the gasket itself is worth replacing and is only a few $. Clean throttle body and replace gasket - See if that helps.
likely not a gasket issue. May be that the throttle body is not opening sufficiently due to internal errors on the tracing or dirt in near the blade. The map is expecting to see less vacuum than it sees hence it gets all wonky. TB is not a terribly expensive part.
likely not a gasket issue. May be that the throttle body is not opening sufficiently due to internal errors on the tracing or dirt in near the blade. The map is expecting to see less vacuum than it sees hence it gets all wonky. TB is not a terribly expensive part.
For TB itself, I'm thinking I could run the car without all the ducts and watch the throttle to see if it opens all the way.
As there is no maf, you can absolutely do that, but I'm not sure that will give you an answer as its more so the position of the throttle at various points as compared to what the flow should be, so its hard to know if the blade is in the right position. I get you don't want to just fire the parts cannon at it, but for $175 at FCP, I might just give it a shot.
As there is no maf, you can absolutely do that, but I'm not sure that will give you an answer as its more so the position of the throttle at various points as compared to what the flow should be, so its hard to know if the blade is in the right position. I get you don't want to just fire the parts cannon at it, but for $175 at FCP, I might just give it a shot.
Exactly! I've already replaced a bunch of stuff that worked or seemed to work for others, just not me...
Wonder if recalibration the TB is possible and would work. But judging from the service article I found online, thinking that Porsche techs would do that if it were possible.
Another thing is... if I order from FCP, all good, but not sure if my Launch x.431 would be able to program in the new TB.
I have had the CEL come on again, and changed the gas cap to the Audi Q7 gas cap. The Audi Q7 gas cap clicks and seems to tighten up better than the Porsche gas cap. The light has been gone and no problems whatsoever for 1+ month.
Exactly! I've already replaced a bunch of stuff that worked or seemed to work for others, just not me...
Wonder if recalibration the TB is possible and would work. But judging from the service article I found online, thinking that Porsche techs would do that if it were possible.
Another thing is... if I order from FCP, all good, but not sure if my Launch x.431 would be able to program in the new TB.
I finally got it sorted. Don't laugh........
I cleaned the TBody again, I guess better this time, because now the the live data for Mass Air Flow correction no longer shows -13% or -31% when idling. It's right at 0-4%
Yes sir I do! I replaced the purge valve and the sensor and to no avail. I replaced gas cap and it is all fine now. Gas cap wouldn’t “click” and I replaced it. I think the seal on the gas cap has been worn out after 110k miles and has been causing a leak.
Can you describe what your cap sounded like when it would NOT “click” (bad/replaced cap) and after it DID “click” (new cap) and it resolved the p0068 and p1071 codes? I Have same problem my gas cap closes and seems to lock in as you turn right and then releases back a 1/4n or so but no sharp “click” just a duller light “thud” as it reaches the max rotation the right before settling back 1/4in to the left. Honestly can’t tell if cap is bad or not. Much appreciated.
I'm going to revive this thread for help resolving my P0068 code that my 2013 CS 4.8 threw last night.
Not knowing too much about what is what under the hood, I did discover that there appears to be a valve that is whistling pretty badly. If I grab the top of the apparent offender, it squeals differently or stops for a moment.
Who knows what is the easiest way to rectify this?
09-08-2022, 02:22 AM
