Another 4,400 miles goes by, so another oil change yesterday. Ho-hum.
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Another 4,400 miles goes by, so another oil change yesterday. Ho-hum.
The oil change warning comes with 1,000 miles and then reminds me every time I go to turn the truck on. As I had time this past Sunday, and with winter on the way and a dry day to boot, with the oil change warning at 600 miles, I put the truck up on the 2x10 planks that I had cut and screwed/nailed three high to get the clearance I need to get under to remove the one front tray and drain the oil.
I always think that the job is going to be another PITA but had realized yesterday that when I take off the 10 10mm bolts that hold on the front plastic skid plate, then put a big long 4x4 on the rear tray so it keeps it on the ground enough for me to slide my drain pan-which is just a 10 qt aluminum pot that I squeezed together a bit to make two sharp pour-points on each end of the pot, there is no need to remove any more of the undertray bolts and getting to the 6mm allen bolt to drain the oil is not all that hard. Using a cordless drill to zing the 10mm undertray bolts and put them back on helps too.
Then it is just using the big socket to take off the oil filter, replacing it and the green o-ring from the Mann oil filter, replacing the crush washer at the drain, putting the drain plug back in, filling with the Total Ineo 5W-30 and the job is done. It probably took me 30-45 minutes as this must have been the 5th or 6th time I have now changed the oil in this truck and between having done many in the 2012 Touareg I had and the wife's 2015 Treg TDI, it is a simple job.
I should be good for the remainder of the winter but it all depends on how many times I'll make the 250 mile roundtrip to go snowmobiling/snowbiking this upcoming winter.
Either way, as I bought a whole bunch of oil change kits from iDParts.com when they go on sale, with the kids at like $82.95, our trucks are always ready for the next oil change.
I always think that the job is going to be another PITA but had realized yesterday that when I take off the 10 10mm bolts that hold on the front plastic skid plate, then put a big long 4x4 on the rear tray so it keeps it on the ground enough for me to slide my drain pan-which is just a 10 qt aluminum pot that I squeezed together a bit to make two sharp pour-points on each end of the pot, there is no need to remove any more of the undertray bolts and getting to the 6mm allen bolt to drain the oil is not all that hard. Using a cordless drill to zing the 10mm undertray bolts and put them back on helps too.
Then it is just using the big socket to take off the oil filter, replacing it and the green o-ring from the Mann oil filter, replacing the crush washer at the drain, putting the drain plug back in, filling with the Total Ineo 5W-30 and the job is done. It probably took me 30-45 minutes as this must have been the 5th or 6th time I have now changed the oil in this truck and between having done many in the 2012 Touareg I had and the wife's 2015 Treg TDI, it is a simple job.
I should be good for the remainder of the winter but it all depends on how many times I'll make the 250 mile roundtrip to go snowmobiling/snowbiking this upcoming winter.
Either way, as I bought a whole bunch of oil change kits from iDParts.com when they go on sale, with the kids at like $82.95, our trucks are always ready for the next oil change.
#3
Yeah, I just paid the dealership to change the oil because I haven't settled on which tool I want to reset the light but, that isn't happening again. So next oil change I'm going to install a fumoto valve with a nipple for a drain hose so, it doesn't pour all over the crossmember. Then I've got to get a plan together for an access panel in the under tray. 5K miles is too frequent to screw around with that pan every time.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Oh yeah, I did reset the reminder/warning, with the iCarsoft.
Has Fumoto solved the crossmember being in the way? I think I had seen some fitting that was angled to clear somewhere, just that it was sort of pricey as opposed to me turning the 6mm allen wrench and a few nitrile gloves. I do like the idea of the drain valve and had bought one for a TDI Touareg but it would not fit and clear the same crossmember.
A panel is going to be tough as the joint between the two panels is right where one would need to put the access.
Has Fumoto solved the crossmember being in the way? I think I had seen some fitting that was angled to clear somewhere, just that it was sort of pricey as opposed to me turning the 6mm allen wrench and a few nitrile gloves. I do like the idea of the drain valve and had bought one for a TDI Touareg but it would not fit and clear the same crossmember.
A panel is going to be tough as the joint between the two panels is right where one would need to put the access.
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dndodd (03-08-2021)
#6
Oh yeah, I did reset the reminder/warning, with the iCarsoft.
Has Fumoto solved the crossmember being in the way? I think I had seen some fitting that was angled to clear somewhere, just that it was sort of pricey as opposed to me turning the 6mm allen wrench and a few nitrile gloves. I do like the idea of the drain valve and had bought one for a TDI Touareg but it would not fit and clear the same crossmember.
A panel is going to be tough as the joint between the two panels is right where one would need to put the access.
Has Fumoto solved the crossmember being in the way? I think I had seen some fitting that was angled to clear somewhere, just that it was sort of pricey as opposed to me turning the 6mm allen wrench and a few nitrile gloves. I do like the idea of the drain valve and had bought one for a TDI Touareg but it would not fit and clear the same crossmember.
A panel is going to be tough as the joint between the two panels is right where one would need to put the access.
I was looking at the POR V2.0 from them. It appears they are now able to register the battery and are working on being able to code at some point as well. Here is an email I got from them:
Thanks for your email.
1.It appears the main difference between this and the POR II is the ability to register the battery, is that correct? That’s is the only difference in the documentation I noticed.
A:Yes,the difference is the BMS. POR V 2.0 can also support data print.
2. Do you have any plans for this tool or any tool to support coding in the future? I’d love to have a tool that can enable/disable features the factory tools can things like when the mirrors fold/unfold, turn off seat belt warnings, etc…
A:Yes,we are working on it.
3. Does this tool have the ability to record data?
A:yes.
1.It appears the main difference between this and the POR II is the ability to register the battery, is that correct? That’s is the only difference in the documentation I noticed.
A:Yes,the difference is the BMS. POR V 2.0 can also support data print.
2. Do you have any plans for this tool or any tool to support coding in the future? I’d love to have a tool that can enable/disable features the factory tools can things like when the mirrors fold/unfold, turn off seat belt warnings, etc…
A:Yes,we are working on it.
3. Does this tool have the ability to record data?
A:yes.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm hoping with the Fumoto I might be able to offset the access panel away from the seam and use a drain line off the valve . I haven't looked at it close enough to know for sure though. Even if it doesn't work out with an access door in the pan having the fumoto and a drain hose will be a big improvement.
I was looking at the POR V2.0 from them. It appears they are now able to register the battery and are working on being able to code at some point as well. Here is an email I got from them:
I was looking at the POR V2.0 from them. It appears they are now able to register the battery and are working on being able to code at some point as well. Here is an email I got from them:
That would work.
As long as one could get a hand into the panel to flip the oil drain lever and one had a line/hose to route the oil down and out, that would be excellent.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Changing the oil on the CD is, by far and away, the messiest oil change I've ever done. It gets *everywhere*. Does the Fumoto valve really help with that?
#9
http://www.fumotousa.com/bsx-series-valves.php
*This link is not the correct valve for the cayenne just an image representing what the valves that accept hoses look like.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I might have to buy the adapter as soon as someone posts the link up for it.
#11
Three Wheelin'
I'm doing the oil change tomorrow or wednesday, when the rest of my parts get here. I'll take a pic of the valve. I don't even use the hose with it, it clears the crossmember when draining without it.
#13
Imagine, instead of having to turn a flat headed bolt with an allen head recessed into it and then holding it while black, warm to hot oil is dripping all over your hand and maybe even down your arm, you can just push up and then 1/4 turn a lever and have spent oil drain into a tube into the container of your choice.
I might have to buy the adapter as soon as someone posts the link up for it.
I might have to buy the adapter as soon as someone posts the link up for it.
#15
I've been using the Mightyvac to suck the oil out the empty dipstick tube. Takes some practice to get the hose situated correctly in the sump but I get a full 8+ qts out every time. I'm getting too old to go crawling under cars.