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Installed OEM fogs and added LED H11s. Also got side swiped by a hit and run pickup.
Dent in the top, nice straight seam vertically and some white paint transfer. Paint transfer/damage. Locals love a white pickup. Right height is wrong for anything sedan shaped and if you don't have a pickup, you're subhuman.
no dash cam footage, nice time to realize the memory car was formatted to 1/8th its size so only last night and this morning.
Guess who gets to do a door transplant?
...oh, also went back with a new wiring harness and redid the steering wheel mod. Cleared the airbag light, thankfully.
Second hand is now metal and coated in white phosphorescent paint.
I know, why not go to a body shop and all? Door is 565 shipped. Knowledge to exchange internals is mine. Deductable is 500, local body shops refuse business due to a six month backlog, and I was quoted 3400 for paintless dent repair on this door and two dents on a other. This door was where the P/O had a small child that liked to brace the door against anything they could...
i can't see if the wheel arch got creased - if it hasn't i think most of that will come off with polishing compound - a hail dent company might be able to fix that top dent - sorry about people being crappy
There is a verticle crease in the metal. The paint transfer includes removal down to metal on my door. It is what it is, and I did go back and ask myself 'did you run into someone or back into them?' I don't think so, true, I back into a lot of spots, but that is a habit of over a decade. I am overly quick only when going forward.
Bad days happen, hope the other driver made out OK. Really.
Finally got around to cloning my 2011 PCM 3.1 Toshiba IDE drive to a SSD.
I had all the parts and a stand-alone cloning station already waiting in a box for 3 years already. Happy the drive did not quit on me :-)
Work was less than I expected, less than an hour and everything works perfectly.
Carried out the door skin swap; the Run Channel re-installation did not go according to plan. Cannot find any details on how to properly slot in the weather stripping/run channel into place with the two plastic 'hard points' and how they tie into the metal door flashing. New rubber on the way at least, so we'll see.
the 'Run Channel' install did not go according to plan. I've ordered new as a replacement, but the installation is...not something I found details on, the metal flashing needs to be unbolted to slot in plastic hard points in the run channels replacement door skin. No, not perfect, but not beat in as you can see, run channel can **** up the reinstall.
In the middle of wrapping my 14 CTTS and decided to put 958.2 turn signal mirrors on while the door panels are off. Direct swap with ~45 seconds of coding in the door modules. Eventual plan is to retrofit topview now that I have the correct mirror bases.
Do you have any links or guides for the mirror swap?
They're a direct swap on the 2014. Just have to install the facelift mirrors and enable the turn signals in the front door modules with PIWIS or another device like Launch that can do coding. The turn signal comes over the can bus so there are no extra wires to run.
One issue - LCA is not working. I'm getting a random short to ground in the driver indicator lamp in the mirrors that I haven't taken the time to figure out yet. Door switch to enable LCA is dead. I haven't had time to pull the door panel again to verify wiring. I know the LCA lamps are driven directly by the LCA rear bumper modules. It's pssoble something changed with the way the lamp signal is sent on the facelift.
I didn't look at wiring diagrams/door modules for anything other than 2014. If your car is older, you might have to also replace the door modules to enable. I'd check in the door modules for the turn signal option before buying mirrors.
08-16-2024, 07:27 PM
