Question about replacing wheel lug bolts
#16
Three Wheelin'
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I guess I am going to have a different take.... It appears that all you are doing is swapping out the bolts and I can't imagine that if one bolt is removed that it impacts the way the wheel is held in place in any way whatsoever .... So, it seems to me that if you took out one old bolt and replaced it with a new one and then repeated that process around the wheel that you are going to cause any problems -- I guess I would do it in an alternate bolt approach but I am not sure that is even necessary....
Now if you are ALSO swapping wheels then obviously this approach would not work![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Now if you are ALSO swapping wheels then obviously this approach would not work
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#17
Drifting
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Greatly appreciate all the helpful responses!
In the end I got ambitious and jacked up the vehicle anyway to remove the front wheels in order to go ahead and clean out the cowl drains. They were draining fine but had quite a bit of debris in them actually. All clean now.
But I have no doubt based on the responses here that I could have replaced the bolts one at a time with the vehicle on the ground without harming anything . The new black set looks great!
Thanks again everyone.
In the end I got ambitious and jacked up the vehicle anyway to remove the front wheels in order to go ahead and clean out the cowl drains. They were draining fine but had quite a bit of debris in them actually. All clean now.
But I have no doubt based on the responses here that I could have replaced the bolts one at a time with the vehicle on the ground without harming anything . The new black set looks great!
Thanks again everyone.
#18
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The hot setup for the cowl drains is to actually remove the rubber piece entirely. I believe there is even a Porsche SIB that suggests this.. You can do it with the wheels on - I was going to - and when I got in there I found it had already been done.. (and very little crap around the nice open hole..)
#19
RL Community Team
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The hot setup for the cowl drains is to actually remove the rubber piece entirely. I believe there is even a Porsche SIB that suggests this.. You can do it with the wheels on - I was going to - and when I got in there I found it had already been done.. (and very little crap around the nice open hole..)
![](https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1124/20170526_120339_f625a0ea08113e0fd3efca79baa84218976552f0.jpg)
Junk peeking out of the hole where the drain grommet goes
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1124/20170526_120355_hdr_9545cc3f5549e49c9cf5716ebbe5c06093db4251.jpg)
Debris that came out of that hole with a bit of coaxing
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
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The hot setup for the cowl drains is to actually remove the rubber piece entirely. I believe there is even a Porsche SIB that suggests this.. You can do it with the wheels on - I was going to - and when I got in there I found it had already been done.. (and very little crap around the nice open hole..)
So I trimmed the passenger side one the same way. Next time I'm in there I may just go ahead and remove them all together based on the info you've provided.
My AC drains are draining fine (front & rear - 4 zone).
How about the rocker panel drains? Any need to check/clean those on a 958? I removed and checked them on my 957 CTT once. Not sure if the 958 is the same setup and in need of any occasional cleaning? I've never looked.
#21
Rennlist Member
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Loosen the lugs on all 4 wheels.
Jack up one wheel (say driver's rear).
Remove all lugs and swap wheels.
Put lugs back in and tighten until fully seated (as stated in post above).
Drop vehicle and tighten with torque wrench. I think the torque spec is 118 ft-lbs. but I usually do 120 just in case my wrench is off or something.
Repeat on remaining wheels.
I would recommend that you use some of the lug nut sockets that have a protective plastic coating so they don't scuff the wheels.
Jack up one wheel (say driver's rear).
Remove all lugs and swap wheels.
Put lugs back in and tighten until fully seated (as stated in post above).
Drop vehicle and tighten with torque wrench. I think the torque spec is 118 ft-lbs. but I usually do 120 just in case my wrench is off or something.
Repeat on remaining wheels.
I would recommend that you use some of the lug nut sockets that have a protective plastic coating so they don't scuff the wheels.
not that I dont trust the poster, just double checking..
thank you
#22
RL Community Team
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