The great debate about torque wrenches. I'd had a general click-style Pittsburgh HF one but bought a higher rated one for lug bolts and a digital one for finer low-torque applications. I kinda prefer the old "click-style" as it seems you hit a limit of the torque you can apply with a definite detent. With the digital one (a more expensive Delco), I tested in a vise.It beeps approaching the limit and has a higher pitch at the limit--but it seems you can go beyond the limit. The digital readout tells you the max torque applied. I think I'd rather have the physical limit of the click-style. Is one more accurate than the other? I dunno but on the digital one, I found that I stopped tightening about 7% below the limit for fear of overtightening. I'd rather lose a little oil than crack a case.

On a side note: Last time I changed the oil I had 14 belly pan bolts (10mm head w T30). Changed oil last night & I'm down to 12. The 958 TT had been to the dealer twice in between for service (turbos & new plugs). Where can I buy replacement belly pan bolts?

 

I think the electronic style is going to be more precise in general, unless you get your click style one calibrated. That said, we're not assembling aircraft here. either one will be fine.

 

The risk with over torquing theses plugs is the cracking of the transfer case itself. It is just now getting notoriety because the dealers and owners are starting to perform fluid changes, and not paying attention, using a out of call torque wrench, or doing it by feel. Some owners have repaired the crack using JB Weld. Reasonable solution.

The "Click" we don't want to hear is the "crack" of the case.

 

 

Ok, just changed the oil and was preparing to change the differential gear oil (x2) and the transfer case fluid.... with the stuff I bought last year and just remembered why I didn't do it last year: never settled the question if I could reuse the differential plugs and transfer case plugs. We reuse the oil drain plugs with a new crush washer, why would the diff & t-case be any different if the washers can be replaced?

In case I'm off base, the differential plug part number seems to be 955-332-057-00, about $15 each x 4. Is there a washer part number in the event we want to reuse the same plug?
Is there a part number for the transfer case plugs? ECS tuning has a part number Mfg Part #95530111501
ECS Part #ES#1445371 How about washer part number? Thanks in advance.

 

The transfer case uses tapered plugs with a sealant applied at the factory. They are VERY LOW TORQUE - and over-torquing them WILL CRACK the transfer case cover. That is a BAD THING. It's suggested that new plugs is the way to go on these, and only use a 3" long wrench to tighten them up (most people don't have a torque wrench that is reliable at as low a torque as is spec'd for these.) I haven't done the diffs so dunno if they use a gasket or a tapered plug. If there is no crush-washer/gasket listed, it's likely they also use tapered plugs with sealant on them.

 

No washers; the differential plugs have an o-ring seal on the plugs which can usually be reused if they are not split. Otherwise you're ordering a new plug itself to get the o-ring, or you can match up an aftermarket o-ring.

 

This is supposedly the seal by itself (no new plug) - $4 instead of $15:
95532137900

https://www.gaudinporscheparts.com/o...ng-95532137900

26 ft-lb for the differential drain plugs by the way...

 

 

Thanks for the info. The part number is for a Transmission seal O-ring. I called Gaudin to see if that was true and if I really needed new plugs when doing the maintenance. They said there's special Porsche loc-tite sauce on the plugs that seal the diff, so I bit the bullet. Gaudin did have the best price I could find though (no PCA discount tho + $13 shipping)..

Plug, differential 955-332-057-00 Gaudin $12.39
Plug, T-case 955-301-115-01 Gaudin $14.75

So now I've got the plugs ordered, I've already got the fluid. I'm running out of excuses not to do this.

 

When I did mine the first time I bought one new plug for the drain and reused the better of the 2 original plugs on the fill port. Next time around I'll simply clean the plugs and use some Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant.

 

 

good thread and instructions. Easiest fluid change I've ever done. I also reused the plugs. Wirewheeled the red gunk off and used some permatex sealant. no leaks.

The ravenol bottle design is fantastic for this. I intend to change the fluid every 10k miles, given how cheap and easy it is.

One item of confusion. On the transfercase fluid change counter in icarscan...do you reset that when you do the fluid or does it auto reset based on measuring accumulated particles in oil?

 

can you screen record the icarscan thing you are referring to?

 

WM 0335IN DIAGNOSTIC MAINTENANCE: RESETTING DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM AND
SERVICE INTERVAL (CAYENNE, CAYENNE S, CAYENNE S E-HYBRID, CAYENNE
TURBO, CAYENNE (3.0), CAYENNE GTS & CAYENNE TURBO S) > RESETTING
SERVICE INTERVAL > READING OUT TRANSFER GEAR WEAR INTEGRATOR
Information
The transmission wear integrator oil must be checked during every intermediate
maintenance/maintenance.
1. Start PIWIS Tester II 9818 and follow the instructions on the Tester.
2. Select the vehicle type and start the PIDT.
3. Select the All-wheel menu.
4. Select the Actual values, input signals menu.
5. Select the T_wear integrators menu. Press [F12] to continue.
Read out the value for V40 transmission wear integrator - oil .
If this value is greater than 145 kWh , the oil in the transfer gear must be changed →
Changing oil for transfer gear. If the value is lower, no further action is required.
6.
7. If the oil in the transfer gear has been changed, the value must be deleted and reset to zero by
pressing [F8].



So it looks like this parameter indicates whether or not you need to change your transfer gear oil.