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Just bought this vehicle and am taking it in for a change tomorrow. I've been told that Mobile 1 no longer works. That they spun off a cheaper brand and call it Mobile 1. Now I am supposed to pay extra to buy Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40 European formula.
The car has developed a slight oil leak. ANd I think it may be the lower tube on the inter cooler. I'll check that when it's on the lift.
What oil should I get? Mobile 1 0-40w "European formula" or something else?
Also- Is it worth while for me to invest in a cretain air filter like 2 k&n filters?
Use Porsche Approved 0w-40 or 5w-40. That's it. Asking for advice here about what brand to buy etc. is like asking what color you should order your car in.
Just bought this vehicle and am taking it in for a change tomorrow. I've been told that Mobile 1 no longer works. That they spun off a cheaper brand and call it Mobile 1. Now I am supposed to pay extra to buy Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40 European formula.
The car has developed a slight oil leak. ANd I think it may be the lower tube on the inter cooler. I'll check that when it's on the lift.
What oil should I get? Mobile 1 0-40w "European formula" or something else?
Also- Is it worth while for me to invest in a cretain air filter like 2 k&n filters?
You can buy the M1 euro at Wal Mart for about $27 per 5qt jug. Cheap as any synthetic. Said to break down too quickly in the CTT, not the best choice.
The drivers side lower intercooler tube does accumulate some oil and needs to be drained on occasion. Learned about that one here on RL!
I bought Porsche A40 approved Castrol syntec 0w-40. Seems to be working. This is probably not the best oil choice either since I suspect it is mineral oil base. I think it holds up better than the M1 though. Redline makes great oils for the Cayenne, or Joe Gibbs. Dozens of choices and reasons why or why not...
I would NEVER EVER, EVER use a K&N "filter" on anything I owned. You might as well just feed the engine sand...
You can buy the M1 euro at Wal Mart for about $27 per 5qt jug. Cheap as any synthetic. Said to break down too quickly in the CTT, not the best choice.
The drivers side lower intercooler tube does accumulate some oil and needs to be drained on occasion. Learned about that one here on RL!
I bought Porsche A40 approved Castrol syntec 0w-40. Seems to be working. This is probably not the best oil choice either since I suspect it is mineral oil base. I think it holds up better than the M1 though. Redline makes great oils for the Cayenne, or Joe Gibbs. Dozens of choices and reasons why or why not...
I would NEVER EVER, EVER use a K&N "filter" on anything I owned. You might as well just feed the engine sand...
WOW- So you guys don't like the K&N air filters? I figured that they would be great for a boosted car. Any other choice that you do like?
Originally Posted by Torre
Use Porsche Approved 0w-40 or 5w-40. That's it. Asking for advice here about what brand to buy etc. is like asking what color you should order your car in.
I race corvettes and they are Much different. I just learned not to use a K&N air filter. So I figured that you guys woudl know a good oil to use. Like I didn't know we could run a 5w-40w. I'm thinking that perhaps a 5w-40w may help in oil consumption.
Originally Posted by Petza914
Motul xcess 8100 5W/40 which is Porsche A40 approved.
Motul makes some very good oil. Thank you.
WHere can I find a list of Porsche A40 recomended oils for thsi motor?
I use K&Ns with the hydrophobic pre-filter on all my Porsches. On a Fabspeed on my Supercharged 997, on an Evoms on my other 997, on a custom intake on my supercharged 928, on the dual Dellortos on my 914, on a HHR on my Cayenne, and on my GMC Sierra c3. I do Blackstone UOA on all my oil changes and have never had silica come back high. I've also never had a MAF failure. On the forced induction engines they make a noticeable difference in top end power and on all engines improve throttle response. Supercharged 928 RUF Supercharged 997 997 C2S 914
Most people will post anecdotal evidence - "I think it's working" "working fine so far.." "I heard.."
What's sadly missing in those posts is any evidence. I know evidence is anathema to many people ("My opinion counts for as much as your knowledge.." but to me it's really pretty vital to forming an intelligent decision.)
Can we assume that Porsche actually requires the oil manufacturers to meet certain standards and certify to Porsche that their oil meets certain standards before giving the oil an A40 approval? I'm willing to make that leap of faith. I'm not so willing to follow anecdotal evidence - basically opinions.
Hence - Torri's and Bigbuzuki's suggestion to use any A40 approved oil is a good one IMHO.
Unless you're willing to pay an oil testing service to:
1 - Analyze a "virgin" (unused) sample of an oil
2 - Analyze several used samples of the same oil
3 - Have the testing company give their opinion on what they see as significant changes in the oil - hopefully by someone with a degree in Mechanical Engineering and Tribilogy (WIKIPEDIA: Tribology is the study of science and engineering of interacting surfaces in relative motion. It includes the study and application of the principles of friction, lubrication and wear.)
4 - Understand what the Tribilogist is telling you
Then you have data to make an intelligent recommendation. I have on occasion - done just that - but it's on important vehicles to me - motorcycles. In that case - the manufacturer's specifications for oil were quite vague - and changed over time. I wanted a better handle on what I should use. In the case of a Porsche engine - we have a nice big company - Porsche - with people who do this sort of thing as part of their everyday job - so I'm going to let them tell me what oils are suitable to use.
If you want to drive yourself crazy - then go to https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm - there are guys out there who do way more than is sane in discussing oil. It's a site that will suck you in for hours and then spit you out more confused than ever.
Believe Porsche. If it says "A40" on it - it's fine to use in your engine. You may want to change it more often than recommended - that will make you feel good - and in the overall scheme of things isn't hugely detrimental to the environment since most oil is now recycled. It just wastes money.
I use K&Ns with the hydrophobic pre-filter on all my Porsches. On a Fabspeed on my Supercharged 997, on an Evoms on my other 997, on a custom intake on my supercharged 928, on the dual Dellortos on my 914, on a HHR on my Cayenne, and on my GMC Sierra c3. I do Blackstone UOA on all my oil changes and have never had silica come back high. I've also never had a MAF failure. On the forced induction engines they make a noticeable difference in top end power and on all engines improve throttle response.
Beautiful engine pics snipped.
The difference between you and the vast majority of people - you have some idea what you're doing - and looking at your pretty pictures - your K&N filters are undoubtedly serviced correctly and frequently.
That works for you.
What I've seen usually happen with K&N filters - after the excitement and mandatory hood open displays of the K&N filter are done and over with - many people lose interest in their filters. They are then neglected to the point of blockage by dirt, then cleaned and over-oiled (the reason the MAF's go bad.)
Their vehicles may also be driven in different conditions than yours are - which I have to assume by the modifications shown - are serious track vehicles. There isn't a lot of blowing sand on the track. I was very happy I had fairly new stock filters on my Cayenne when I crossed the Mohave desert a few weeks ago - and the wind kicked up - causing sand-storms.
I've seen a number of well documented reports by operators of industrial engines and equipment (which have expensive stock filters and take large quantities of oil, making this economically valuable) that demonstrated that K&N filters had shortcomings in filtering fine silica. The tests were backed up by oil analysis reports and in some cases by engine teardowns and rebuilds. The companies ran these tests hoping they could save money by using reusable filters and extended oil change intervals. Turns out - they couldn't.
These engines were being run in high-silica environments. Without knowing the conditions your engines were run at - having low silica in an oil analysis isn't terribly significant. If there was no silica in the operating environment - then running no filter at all would still result in a low silica oil test result.
Your engine - your choice. The stock air filters on a Cayenne V8 are HUGE - and with forced induction - unless a filter increases boost - it's hard to understand how any engine operating parameter would be changed. It's easy for an engineer to get more power out of a boosted engine - up the boost (although that may have a bad effect on engine life.)
As I said - your engine - your choice - but I won't run a K&N on anything I own, and on one bike that did have one when I bought it - it was removed immediately and replaced with a factory filter.
The difference between you and the vast majority of people - you have some idea what you're doing - and looking at your pretty pictures - your K&N filters are undoubtedly serviced correctly and frequently.
That works for you.
What I've seen usually happen with K&N filters - after the excitement and mandatory hood open displays of the K&N filter are done and over with - many people lose interest in their filters. They are then neglected to the point of blockage by dirt, then cleaned and over-oiled (the reason the MAF's go bad.)
Their vehicles may also be driven in different conditions than yours are - which I have to assume by the modifications shown - are serious track vehicles. There isn't a lot of blowing sand on the track. I was very happy I had fairly new stock filters on my Cayenne when I crossed the Mohave desert a few weeks ago - and the wind kicked up - causing sand-storms.
I've seen a number of well documented reports by operators of industrial engines and equipment (which have expensive stock filters and take large quantities of oil, making this economically valuable) that demonstrated that K&N filters had shortcomings in filtering fine silica. The tests were backed up by oil analysis reports and in some cases by engine teardowns and rebuilds. The companies ran these tests hoping they could save money by using reusable filters and extended oil change intervals. Turns out - they couldn't.
These engines were being run in high-silica environments. Without knowing the conditions your engines were run at - having low silica in an oil analysis isn't terribly significant. If there was no silica in the operating environment - then running no filter at all would still result in a low silica oil test result.
Your engine - your choice. The stock air filters on a Cayenne V8 are HUGE - and with forced induction - unless a filter increases boost - it's hard to understand how any engine operating parameter would be changed. It's easy for an engineer to get more power out of a boosted engine - up the boost (although that may have a bad effect on engine life.)
As I said - your engine - your choice - but I won't run a K&N on anything I own, and on one bike that did have one when I bought it - it was removed immediately and replaced with a factory filter.
Valid points. None of my vehicles are tracked, but I'm in SC where it's not especially dusty and neither the RUF, 928, nor 914 even see much rain.
When I clean and reoil a filter I then use almost half a roll of paper towels that get stuffed down inside of it and two layers rolled around the outside if it, and it sits like that for 24 hours before installation back onto the car.
I used to use Mobil 1 5W/40 Turbo Diesel on my 997s, because jt contained higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorus than other Mobil 1 oils, but looking at the TAN and TBN numbers, even in as few as 4,000 miles it was showing a reduction in viscosity and break down of the anti-wear additive package. I then switched to the Motul and it's better than the Mobil 1 in this regard. So I bought quite a bit of it. I've zinc switched to Joe Gibbs Racing Driven DT40 in the 997s and it's the best of the 3 on the UOA reports, so I'm using up the remaining Motul in the Cayenne, and will then switch that one over to the DT40 as well, purely for ease of inventory reasons. If I needed to use an A40 approved oil for warranty or another reason, it would be the Motul, not the Mobil 1.
The difference between you and the vast majority of people - you have some idea what you're doing - and looking at your pretty pictures - your K&N filters are undoubtedly serviced correctly and frequently.
That works for you.
What I've seen usually happen with K&N filters - after the excitement and mandatory hood open displays of the K&N filter are done and over with - many people lose interest in their filters. They are then neglected to the point of blockage by dirt, then cleaned and over-oiled (the reason the MAF's go bad.)
Their vehicles may also be driven in different conditions than yours are - which I have to assume by the modifications shown - are serious track vehicles. There isn't a lot of blowing sand on the track. I was very happy I had fairly new stock filters on my Cayenne when I crossed the Mohave desert a few weeks ago - and the wind kicked up - causing sand-storms.
I've seen a number of well documented reports by operators of industrial engines and equipment (which have expensive stock filters and take large quantities of oil, making this economically valuable) that demonstrated that K&N filters had shortcomings in filtering fine silica. The tests were backed up by oil analysis reports and in some cases by engine teardowns and rebuilds. The companies ran these tests hoping they could save money by using reusable filters and extended oil change intervals. Turns out - they couldn't.
These engines were being run in high-silica environments. Without knowing the conditions your engines were run at - having low silica in an oil analysis isn't terribly significant. If there was no silica in the operating environment - then running no filter at all would still result in a low silica oil test result.
Your engine - your choice. The stock air filters on a Cayenne V8 are HUGE - and with forced induction - unless a filter increases boost - it's hard to understand how any engine operating parameter would be changed. It's easy for an engineer to get more power out of a boosted engine - up the boost (although that may have a bad effect on engine life.)
As I said - your engine - your choice - but I won't run a K&N on anything I own, and on one bike that did have one when I bought it - it was removed immediately and replaced with a factory filter.
You crossed the Mohave Desert in your Cayenne? That is so freaking I LOVE HEARING ABOUT STUFF LIKE THIS!
My buddies gave me a hard way to go because I took mine off road. Nothing too major but enough to find it's limits. (on purpose) Still feels weird when you give it throttle and the truck doesn't move, then slowly it begins to keep climbing. I'm also an old school jeep guy.
Most of my driving is in an urban environment. I figured low silica count. And thought the K&N would give me a bit of extra boost.
Originally Posted by Petza914
Valid points. None of my vehicles are tracked, but I'm in SC where it's not especially dusty and neither the RUF, 928, nor 914 even see much rain.
When I clean and reoil a filter I then use almost half a roll of paper towels that get stuffed down inside of it and two layers rolled around the outside if it, and it sits like that for 24 hours before installation back onto the car.
I used to use Mobil 1 5W/40 Turbo Diesel on my 997s, because jt contained higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorus than other Mobil 1 oils, but looking at the TAN and TBN numbers, even in as few as 4,000 miles it was showing a reduction in viscosity and break down of the anti-wear additive package. I then switched to the Motul and it's better than the Mobil 1 in this regard. So I bought quite a bit of it. I've zinc switched to Joe Gibbs Racing Driven DT40 in the 997s and it's the best of the 3 on the UOA reports, so I'm using up the remaining Motul in the Cayenne, and will then switch that one over to the DT40 as well, purely for ease of inventory reasons. If I needed to use an A40 approved oil for warranty or another reason, it would be the Motul, not the Mobil 1.
Sound slike Motul may be the way to go. I want to change the oil today and I've never heard of Joe Gibbs oil so I guess I can't get any today.
Sound slike Motul may be the way to go. I want to change the oil today and I've never heard of Joe Gibbs oil so I guess I can't get any today.
I'm not sure you'll find the Motul xcess locally either - I get mine from Amazon, but if you order today, you could change your oil Sunday if you're a Prime member
Amazon carries the JGR DT40 also. Joe Gibbs Racing is what Jake Raby recommends and specifies for the M96/M97 911 motors. He's the guy (together with Charles Navarro of LN Engineering) that analyzed all the weak points of those motors and developed the upgrades like the IMS Solution for the failing IMS bearings, the nickasil cylinder wall coatings for the bore scoring issues, etc. I've taken his M97 101 online class and his hands-on 102 engine building class. He is also starting to do some stuff with Cayennes, so I may be enrolling in those in the future too.
You crossed the Mohave Desert in your Cayenne? That is so freaking I LOVE HEARING ABOUT STUFF LIKE THIS!
Sorry - should have pointed out - that was on I-15 most of the way. Offroading was limited to exploring some of the deserted towns along the way - and most of them still had some remaining pavement of sorts. The thing is - there are fairly frequent sand storms along the route - and we ran into one briefly. Never got to the point of having to stop - but it did make me think about the air filters I was running.
I'm not sure you'll find the Motul xcess locally either - I get mine from Amazon, but if you order today, you could change your oil Sunday if you're a Prime member
Amazon carries the JGR DT40 also. Joe Gibbs Racing is what Jake Raby recommends and specifies for the M96/M97 911 motors. He's the guy (together with Charles Navarro of LN Engineering) that analyzed all the weak points of those motors and developed the upgrades like the IMS Solution for the failing IMS bearings, the nickasil cylinder wall coatings for the bore scoring issues, etc. I've taken his M97 101 online class and his hands-on 102 engine building class. He is also starting to do some stuff with Cayennes, so I may be enrolling in those in the future too.
Can not find Motul anywhere around here. What other recommendations for oil that I can purchase local? Is Mobile 1 euro brand really that bad? Would you switch to 5w40w or stay at 0w40w? We usually drop into the teens here in Louisville KY.
Originally Posted by deilenberger
Sorry - should have pointed out - that was on I-15 most of the way. Offroading was limited to exploring some of the deserted towns along the way - and most of them still had some remaining pavement of sorts. The thing is - there are fairly frequent sand storms along the route - and we ran into one briefly. Never got to the point of having to stop - but it did make me think about the air filters I was running.
12-16-2016, 02:38 AM
Recomend oil for 06 CTTS with 115k
I LOVE HEARING ABOUT STUFF LIKE THIS!
What other recommendations for oil that I can purchase local? Is Mobile 1 euro brand really that bad? Would you switch to 5w40w or stay at 0w40w? We usually drop into the teens here in Louisville KY.