Air Suspension Headaches/Issues
#1
Air Suspension Headaches/Issues
Hello guys,
I have some issues with the 955CS Air suspension and would need your help/advice.
The suspension was working ok, then suddenly I got the Air Suspension Fault Work Shop Message appeared (amber). Then couple days later, I get the Red Message.
I notice that my compressor stopped working and the front was sitting lower:
I checked the height sensors (they are okay)
Checked Compressor, it works with 12V input. So I ordered the rebuild kit and addressed that while I was at it.
Still, it doesn't work (compressor doesn't kicked on).
Check the Fuse/Relay box underneath the Driver Seat and surely, the 40A was blown. Replaced it, still doesn't work.
Now, I'm at the point of weather the control module is bad (which I highly doubt) or could it be any other electrical parts (relays? wiring)
I do have one notorious problem is the clogged drainage that cause water to run into the driverside & passenger side and the car was sat outside in heavy rain for a good bit.
Please advise,
Kev
I have some issues with the 955CS Air suspension and would need your help/advice.
The suspension was working ok, then suddenly I got the Air Suspension Fault Work Shop Message appeared (amber). Then couple days later, I get the Red Message.
I notice that my compressor stopped working and the front was sitting lower:
I checked the height sensors (they are okay)
Checked Compressor, it works with 12V input. So I ordered the rebuild kit and addressed that while I was at it.
Still, it doesn't work (compressor doesn't kicked on).
Check the Fuse/Relay box underneath the Driver Seat and surely, the 40A was blown. Replaced it, still doesn't work.
Now, I'm at the point of weather the control module is bad (which I highly doubt) or could it be any other electrical parts (relays? wiring)
I do have one notorious problem is the clogged drainage that cause water to run into the driverside & passenger side and the car was sat outside in heavy rain for a good bit.
Please advise,
Kev
#2
Three Wheelin'
Would need to know what that code is driving your red warning light. No point in troubleshooting all that stuff if the car is throwing a code that causes the ECU not to engage the air compressor, and that code is for some failed sensor somewhere.
Red warnings with height suspension mean the car is going to disable it. You shouldn't expect the air compressor to come on while the code is still active.
Red warnings with height suspension mean the car is going to disable it. You shouldn't expect the air compressor to come on while the code is still active.
#3
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
With the cold and humid weather upon us, the rear suspension on my GTS is acting up and now looks like a jacked up '69 Camaro or better yet, a Feline in heat.
The compressor raises and lowers the front suspension but the rear is stuck at terrain level. Ordered this morning two rear pressure holding valves #955 358 730 02. Also checked VW dealer and the exact same part that fits the Touareg but with VW part number (7L0616814B) is 50% more expensive than Porsche.
Parts guy at Porsche dealership tells me that failure of these valves is common. Seeing that this was the culprit for kjbu's suspension issues, we'll start with replacing these valves and see what happens.
The compressor raises and lowers the front suspension but the rear is stuck at terrain level. Ordered this morning two rear pressure holding valves #955 358 730 02. Also checked VW dealer and the exact same part that fits the Touareg but with VW part number (7L0616814B) is 50% more expensive than Porsche.
Parts guy at Porsche dealership tells me that failure of these valves is common. Seeing that this was the culprit for kjbu's suspension issues, we'll start with replacing these valves and see what happens.
#4
Three Wheelin'
4tw_garage, at least go in, clear all of the codes and then drive it down the street and back. If that doesn't work you may need to do the calibration routine if you have Durametric.
#5
Yes, one of those was the problem on my 2004.
I took it out, filled with oil and burned the hell out of it.
After that it was open :-)
But don't know if that destroyed (burned) some rubber-seals or something inside. Have not seen the inside content. Maybe one of you can open a broken one and see? Pictures wanted :-)
Anyway, my air suspension is working perfect now after that oil-burn process.
I took it out, filled with oil and burned the hell out of it.
After that it was open :-)
But don't know if that destroyed (burned) some rubber-seals or something inside. Have not seen the inside content. Maybe one of you can open a broken one and see? Pictures wanted :-)
Anyway, my air suspension is working perfect now after that oil-burn process.
#6
Okay, so a lil update here:
Changed the fused. Changed the L3 Relay for the compressor. It's now kicking on and pumping. Car was able to raise to normal level. However, I'm still getting the warning message about air suspension faulty work shop as well as pressure accumulator charging when I first started the car.
After a lil while, I then can able to adjust the height. However, it takes a VERY long time to raise it. And I can only raise 1 level at a time before having to wait for a good while.
Hooked up the computer at the shop (not a Durametric but a professional AUSTEL Shop Computer), trying to clear out the codes as well as reset/recalibrate and I'm seeing the following codes:
1437 -Control Position not learned. I think this is the code injected by the scanner when I tried to calibrate (but failed)
1310 - Level Control Module
1299 - Gateway
907 - Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module
Car battery was drained once so we recharged it back up. Also, could it be because the Control Unit Vehicle Electrical System?
Please advise.
Thanks,
Kev
Changed the fused. Changed the L3 Relay for the compressor. It's now kicking on and pumping. Car was able to raise to normal level. However, I'm still getting the warning message about air suspension faulty work shop as well as pressure accumulator charging when I first started the car.
After a lil while, I then can able to adjust the height. However, it takes a VERY long time to raise it. And I can only raise 1 level at a time before having to wait for a good while.
Hooked up the computer at the shop (not a Durametric but a professional AUSTEL Shop Computer), trying to clear out the codes as well as reset/recalibrate and I'm seeing the following codes:
1437 -Control Position not learned. I think this is the code injected by the scanner when I tried to calibrate (but failed)
1310 - Level Control Module
1299 - Gateway
907 - Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module
Car battery was drained once so we recharged it back up. Also, could it be because the Control Unit Vehicle Electrical System?
Please advise.
Thanks,
Kev
#7
Intermediate
Those codes were not there before you tried to re-calibrate / erase the codes, right?
I suggest to use a Durametric or PIWIS or you might end up doing more damage than fixing things up... remember that this cars are pretty temperamental when it comes to scanners and coding.
Having a good battery is also important. Bad batteries give all kind of problems in the Cayenne.
As for the suspension problem, it seems that you have an air leak somewhere. This air leak made the compressor overwork, which ended blowing the fuse... The temp sensor in the compressor might be bad as well.
Good luck with the repair.
I suggest to use a Durametric or PIWIS or you might end up doing more damage than fixing things up... remember that this cars are pretty temperamental when it comes to scanners and coding.
Having a good battery is also important. Bad batteries give all kind of problems in the Cayenne.
As for the suspension problem, it seems that you have an air leak somewhere. This air leak made the compressor overwork, which ended blowing the fuse... The temp sensor in the compressor might be bad as well.
Good luck with the repair.
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#8
Okay, so a lil update here:
Changed the fused. Changed the L3 Relay for the compressor. It's now kicking on and pumping. Car was able to raise to normal level. However, I'm still getting the warning message about air suspension faulty work shop as well as pressure accumulator charging when I first started the car.
After a lil while, I then can able to adjust the height. However, it takes a VERY long time to raise it. And I can only raise 1 level at a time before having to wait for a good while.
Hooked up the computer at the shop (not a Durametric but a professional AUSTEL Shop Computer), trying to clear out the codes as well as reset/recalibrate and I'm seeing the following codes:
1437 -Control Position not learned. I think this is the code injected by the scanner when I tried to calibrate (but failed)
1310 - Level Control Module
1299 - Gateway
907 - Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module
Car battery was drained once so we recharged it back up. Also, could it be because the Control Unit Vehicle Electrical System?
Please advise.
Thanks,
Kev
Changed the fused. Changed the L3 Relay for the compressor. It's now kicking on and pumping. Car was able to raise to normal level. However, I'm still getting the warning message about air suspension faulty work shop as well as pressure accumulator charging when I first started the car.
After a lil while, I then can able to adjust the height. However, it takes a VERY long time to raise it. And I can only raise 1 level at a time before having to wait for a good while.
Hooked up the computer at the shop (not a Durametric but a professional AUSTEL Shop Computer), trying to clear out the codes as well as reset/recalibrate and I'm seeing the following codes:
1437 -Control Position not learned. I think this is the code injected by the scanner when I tried to calibrate (but failed)
1310 - Level Control Module
1299 - Gateway
907 - Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module
Car battery was drained once so we recharged it back up. Also, could it be because the Control Unit Vehicle Electrical System?
Please advise.
Thanks,
Kev
You'll also get that charge error if the tank was empty and it needed to run for a long time at startup. Once cleared that should stay away, otherwise I'd be looking for a leak.
#9
thanks guys, looks like I have to order a Durametrics after all. Off topic: Should I get the Pro or just the Enthusiast?
Back on topic:
I'm thinking that I may have a leak. Normally, on a full tank, how many level can it raise the car before having the compressor kick on? 2?
Also, I may need a new battery, car is 10yrs old on original battery. Should I stick with OEM or is there a good aftermarket I can use? I'm used to Yellow Tops on my other cars but now sure if it's compatible with this. (Changing battery on this car is a PITA for sure).
Thanks,
Kev
Back on topic:
I'm thinking that I may have a leak. Normally, on a full tank, how many level can it raise the car before having the compressor kick on? 2?
Also, I may need a new battery, car is 10yrs old on original battery. Should I stick with OEM or is there a good aftermarket I can use? I'm used to Yellow Tops on my other cars but now sure if it's compatible with this. (Changing battery on this car is a PITA for sure).
Thanks,
Kev
#10
Rennlist Member
thanks guys, looks like I have to order a Durametrics after all. Off topic: Should I get the Pro or just the Enthusiast?
Back on topic:
I'm thinking that I may have a leak. Normally, on a full tank, how many level can it raise the car before having the compressor kick on? 2?
Also, I may need a new battery, car is 10yrs old on original battery. Should I stick with OEM or is there a good aftermarket I can use? I'm used to Yellow Tops on my other cars but now sure if it's compatible with this. (Changing battery on this car is a PITA for sure).
Thanks,
Kev
Back on topic:
I'm thinking that I may have a leak. Normally, on a full tank, how many level can it raise the car before having the compressor kick on? 2?
Also, I may need a new battery, car is 10yrs old on original battery. Should I stick with OEM or is there a good aftermarket I can use? I'm used to Yellow Tops on my other cars but now sure if it's compatible with this. (Changing battery on this car is a PITA for sure).
Thanks,
Kev
There is an Interstate battery in my CS. An auto store battery with a vent port will work. Expect to spend in $200 range for decent quality.
Last edited by v10rick; 03-08-2016 at 04:42 PM.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Stay away from Optima batteries, they've become junk and are assembled in Mexico now. They're are a few good standard and AGM (cost a little more) batteries out there. Bosch makes a standard and AGM battery for the Cayenne. Your looking for a Group 49 battery, the regular Bosch is the S5, the AGM is the S6. I see an S6 on Amazon Prime for $220, and Pep boys, a great price. Your right about the price, my Audi/VW contact says $196 for the valve from VW, $145 from Audi, and my Porsche dealer (Sonnen) says $101.65
Last edited by hahnmgh63; 03-08-2016 at 10:27 PM.
#13
Okay, after a while, here' some updates and even more headaches.
1. Replaced batteries (2x) the current one is the new Bosch AGM. Doesn't solve the issue so it's not low voltage.
2. Bought the Durametrics Enthusiast. When I try to go into adaptation and try to read, the first box said: "This channel does not support adaptation". It doesn't matter what I do, I still cannot get past that stage:
a. Clear all codes. Still show 1437 (due to no calibration data)
b. Tried with both modes: ignition ON and Engine running, same result
c. Reset, tried a different computer, same result.
At this point, I've no clue what to do next. Car is still having the Workshop error when started up. But after driving, I was able to raise and lower the car fine (though raising takes a longer time than usual, it's running straight from the compressor).
Please advise.
1. Replaced batteries (2x) the current one is the new Bosch AGM. Doesn't solve the issue so it's not low voltage.
2. Bought the Durametrics Enthusiast. When I try to go into adaptation and try to read, the first box said: "This channel does not support adaptation". It doesn't matter what I do, I still cannot get past that stage:
a. Clear all codes. Still show 1437 (due to no calibration data)
b. Tried with both modes: ignition ON and Engine running, same result
c. Reset, tried a different computer, same result.
At this point, I've no clue what to do next. Car is still having the Workshop error when started up. But after driving, I was able to raise and lower the car fine (though raising takes a longer time than usual, it's running straight from the compressor).
Please advise.
#14
I'm having the same problem. A few seconds after I click on "Read" it comes back with an error, "This channel does not support adaptation." The rear suspension is all uneven and I need to level everything out. If anyone can assist, it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.
#15
Nordschleife Master
I'm having the same problem. A few seconds after I click on "Read" it comes back with an error, "This channel does not support adaptation." The rear suspension is all uneven and I need to level everything out. If anyone can assist, it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.