hi rennlisters

what kind of coolant are you putting in the 955 turbo? I just started towing the
boat to the lake and realized i should also check coolant level as the temperture is starting to creep up. As a side note did anyone notice that the shift patterns of the cayenne change dramatically when the trailer is connected?

 

If you have a tow module, it adjusts all sorts of stuff when the trailer is connected.

Use only the Porsche coolant; it's pink. If you mix in anything else (other than distilled water), you're going to end up with a gooey mess.

Does anyone know if the Porsche coolant is just relabeled from another brand (Pentosin)?

 

I am sure there is a parent brand, but for the amount needed I just buy the stuff from the dealer and be done with it. Remember to use only distilled water to mix it 50/50.

 

is there any reason I can't drain the coolant and fill with distiller water and water wetter? I live in Miami FL where I will never need to worry about freezing. My motivation to do this is I have a 2006 s with 40k on the clock. Coolant pipes have not been done. If they go before I sell the truck I would be avoiding damaging the "seals"? I understand can be damaged on the torq converter when coolant runs down the back.

 

It's just G13 from VW and Audi. It's backwards compatible with G12++, G12+, and every previous coolant before that.

You can buy Genuine Audi G13 from ECS for 20 bucks or so for a 1 gallon container. It's the same stuff Porsche uses.

 

If you're going to take the name literally, then it's called both anti-freeze and anti-boil.

 

Knowing that the coolant temp runs at a steady 180 degrees, and knowing that a mixture of 50/50 coolant and water MIGHT raise the boil point say 15 degrees (which water wetter does too). I fail to see your point? A closed pressurized system would require something like 250 degrees to boil.

I run a race car in 24 hour events regularly with nothing but water, using coolant is not allowed......so can you elaborate please?

 

Normal operating temp range for the Cayenne is 180-220 for water temp. There will be sections in the motor with much hotter metal temps than that. 180 marks where the thermostat starts to open, and it's not fully opened until 220. Fans don't kick on until 200 degrees if the HVAC is off. Normal boiling point for G13 with 50/50 mix is 275 degrees F at atmospheric pressure. So, figure over 300 degrees under pressure. There are a lot of places in your motor where the coolant will exceed the temp of your overall engine temp.

If you have any type of impurities in the water (mg, cl, etc), it will lower the boiling point.

Your engine and internal parts will begin to corrode with straight water. No idea how water wetter does in preventing corrosion and oxidation.

What's good for the race car isn't always good for the street car.

 

I am not a mechanic, nor an engineer but I am going to disagree with you here on a few things:

1. I have never seen any coolant when mixed yields a boil point above around 229F. Many manufacturers love to thought a high number which is a 100% undiluted figure. That falls off VERY rapidly when diluted. A number like you quoted 275F is just like the stuff used in our Honda van so I ask you to check your info.

2. Temps I assume are read in the head or upon exit from the block, when at its highest. So when my Ceyenne reads 180 during towing, I don't think it gets any hotter anywhere in its cycle. If I am wrong about this than I stand corrected, but logic tells me that Porsche will read temp upon exit or in the head.....like my Hondas.

3. Distiller water will not create corrosion unless it's tap water that's mislabeled. If your talking about lubrication and preventing damage to seals.... That's what water wetter (or dawn dish soap for the old school folks) will do.

I also believe that the more "coolant" you add to water, the less ability you have to dissipate heat when passing through the radiator.

 

1. http://rrhh.seat.com/content/dam/pub...oolant_tte.pdf

2. Water coming out of the heads is still the average of the hottest and coolest parts of the fluid. As your motor heat cycles, it's not a uniform heating pattern. This is especially true if you have a Turbo.

3. If you run just distilled water + a wetting agent, you're going to corrode your motor. Water wetter is just a surfactant. You need some type of rust inhibitor to act as a buffering solution. Even then, the buffering power isn't the same as standard anti-freeze. Maybe you do run a rust inhibitor, and just didn't mention it.

You only run water on the track for safety reasons. Not because it's good for the motor. If you get just a little bit of buildup in the radiator or heater core from corrosion, all that surface area from running water and a surfactant will be completely negated. And, your corrosion problems will only grow.

 

1. http://www.blauparts.com/vw/vw_fluid...ze_fluid.shtml


I am pretty sure the page you posted is a misleading boiling point. Look at the specs of "mixed" and "undiluted". They are worlds apart.
I am calling "BS" on the SEAT info.

2. You brought up "boiling point" originally which is a non issue if leaving out coolant. I spent my time addressing boiling point here......now if the reason is for #3...

3. If the issue is corrosion/buffer and these agents are not in water wetter, are they available as an additive and do they not harm torq converter seals. ( the whole reason I am looking at this switch)

Yes I aware of why we run race cars with no coolant.

 

Miamirice, just do your coolant pipes and while you are in there replace the coolant Ts with metal ones. They will fail. Sounds like you have the skills, so for just the price of parts you are good to go.

 

You can always try emptying out the cooling system to convert it to air-cooled.

 

It's just a PIA and $1000 on something I am not convinced I want to do. I am paying rent to store a car that needs a motor. So until that's done, I can't see doing the pipes. I am also toying with the idea of a 2010 CTT. So I was really just thinking about this as a 30 minute solution/band-aid.


FWIW- redlines website says water wetter has all the anti corrosive properties of coolant......so I still believe that g13 diluted offers nothing that water and water wetter does other than ANTI-freeze properties.

 

I think you missed that part where it says "for racing" or "reduced anti-freeze levels in warmer climates."

I highly doubt you'll find redline advocating that you use this as a replacement for anti-freeze.