Conditioning my car for the Arctic.
#1
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Conditioning my car for the Arctic.
I've been winter driving my 955 for years now and she's been brilliant. This year, I have a contract in northern Labrador Canada, no service other than what I can do myself, I'm going to go over her with a fine tooth comb, I've kept her in tip top shape, but I'm wondering if there's anything extra I should do as it's going to be my DD in the arctic for the next 6 months.
#2
Drifting
I put an oil pan warmer on mine. The smallest one as there is very little flat spots on the oil pan. Hear is my thread asking about block heaters.
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...t=block+heater
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...t=block+heater
#3
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Oil pan heater is on the short list, that's a good call and thanks for the thread link. New plugs and fluids, with a 70% coolant water ratio. Switching from 5w40, to 0w40. My battery is new last year, and I'm thinking of doing coils just because.
#4
Trucker
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I don't know anything about Labrador, but I have a group of folks that work for me in Fairbanks and up to Deadhorse with many vehicles and trucks. And I go up there every January for 4-5 days The Vehicle prep follows:
+ oil pan heaters
+ battery blankets (heaters)
++ new battery with high CCA. We go with AGM instead of lead-acid since in super cold and during a major recharge (ie. if you run the batteries down) the in-rush current damages the lead plates.
+ drop the viscosity in all the oils for lower temp and run synthetic
++ change back late in spring.
+ we run coolant heaters (really block heater)
+ flush the coolant and fill for appropriate temp and make sure that the system is properly bled.
+ never run the fuel tank low and buy quality fuel
+ have extra bulbs...at -40 or colder when you first turn on your lights the filaments get a "jolt" --> shorter life...
Do you have heated seat?
Our vehicles are parked outside and plugged in, and we do not idle them all night except when it is steady below -40.
PM me if you have any Q's
+ oil pan heaters
+ battery blankets (heaters)
++ new battery with high CCA. We go with AGM instead of lead-acid since in super cold and during a major recharge (ie. if you run the batteries down) the in-rush current damages the lead plates.
+ drop the viscosity in all the oils for lower temp and run synthetic
++ change back late in spring.
+ we run coolant heaters (really block heater)
+ flush the coolant and fill for appropriate temp and make sure that the system is properly bled.
+ never run the fuel tank low and buy quality fuel
+ have extra bulbs...at -40 or colder when you first turn on your lights the filaments get a "jolt" --> shorter life...
Do you have heated seat?
Our vehicles are parked outside and plugged in, and we do not idle them all night except when it is steady below -40.
PM me if you have any Q's
#5
Three Wheelin'
I had a friend who drove his Honda up to Alaskan Prudhoe Bay along the "ice road truckers" route last summer. He was advised to have two full sized spare tires.
#6
Studded tires
Second charged up battery in the trunk
Booster cables
Tow rope
Heavy duty ice scraper
Shovel
Metal traction tracks or bag of crushed stone to put under tires if stuck
Watch "Top Gear Polar Special", credit to their Icelandic team!
Second charged up battery in the trunk
Booster cables
Tow rope
Heavy duty ice scraper
Shovel
Metal traction tracks or bag of crushed stone to put under tires if stuck
Watch "Top Gear Polar Special", credit to their Icelandic team!
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#8
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#9
Trucker
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And Satellite phone... I don't know about Labrador...but in Alaska...slightly north of (Fairbanks) North Pole Alaska there is no cell phone coverage until 20 miles south of Deadhorse...
Arctic gear
Flash lights
Power bars
Water
Cans of Spam
Copies of Mad magazine or Excellence Porsche price guide.
Arctic gear
Flash lights
Power bars
Water
Cans of Spam
Copies of Mad magazine or Excellence Porsche price guide.
Last edited by Igooz; 11-18-2013 at 10:05 PM.
#10
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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Extra serp belt. I would check vis range of all fluids (diffs, trans case, & power steering). I have had hydraulic systems on some of my construction equipment fleet freeze up here in Jersey during a really cold blast of winter. Best of luck
#11
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T minus two days until I leave. I'm flushing and replacing all the fluids, diff, transmission, brake etc. Block heater is in, Lower oil viscosity more concentrated coolant. The trans Labrador Highway should be a blast!
#15
Insufficient pan warmer is little better than none. When the wattage is matched to the pan capacity, they're designed to keep the oil at a steady 125F (52C). In cases of limited adhesion area, use more than one pad. I needed 250w on one of my tractors, but didn't have a space big enough to stick a single 250. There was however, room elsewhere on the pan for a pair of 125s.
Also, don't forget the tranny. There's a nice flat spot easily accessible right above the rear underpanel of my 958. There might be such a place on your 955. But because of moisture and road salt problems, I'd advise against a conventional multiple tap adapter. Cut off all three 3-prong plugs, and splice the cut ends of the three cords into an aftermarket weather-proof three pronged plug.
(this is assuming you buy the 110 volt pads). Wolverine also sells pan heaters in 240v if that's what you need.
//greg//
Also, don't forget the tranny. There's a nice flat spot easily accessible right above the rear underpanel of my 958. There might be such a place on your 955. But because of moisture and road salt problems, I'd advise against a conventional multiple tap adapter. Cut off all three 3-prong plugs, and splice the cut ends of the three cords into an aftermarket weather-proof three pronged plug.
(this is assuming you buy the 110 volt pads). Wolverine also sells pan heaters in 240v if that's what you need.
//greg//
Last edited by grohgreg; 11-24-2013 at 06:36 PM.