Survey on cardan shaft and mileage
04-01-2013, 09:42 AM
#31
Drifting
Am I right to understand that the Turbo S driveshaft part # has superseded all others? 955-421-020-25 I guess I'll do the Flex disc at the same time as it was recommended by some. I'm at 65K on a '06 CTTS and a visual of the bearing support looks good when I push and tug on it but it sounds like it's days are already numbered.
04-01-2013, 11:00 AM
#32
Race Director
Thread Starter
Am I right to understand that the Turbo S driveshaft part # has superseded all others? 955-421-020-25 I guess I'll do the Flex disc at the same time as it was recommended by some. I'm at 65K on a '06 CTTS and a visual of the bearing support looks good when I push and tug on it but it sounds like it's days are already numbered.
04-11-2013, 09:53 PM
#38
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'04 CTT, just had it replaced with just under 64k miles. Began failing while towing back from the track last weekend; made for a bit of a white knuckle trip but fortunately didn't have too far to go while feathering the throttle to keep the vibrations down. Glad to have CPO warranty! 
04-12-2013, 11:57 AM
#41
Race Director
Thread Starter
I replaced it (myself) last w/e @ 76K mi. Original shaft middle donut didn't look too bad but I know it's the bearing that determines when it's going to go.
Most of the project wasn't too bad but that rear shaft "coupling" into the rear diff. input just didn't want to let go, I banged, pulled, pried every way I could think of to get that thing to break free (about 3 hrs. worth of cussing at it), finally did as another RL'er did and put it back (somewhat) together, lowered the rear on it's wheels and raised the front wheels off the floor and used the engine to break it loose. It worked (less than 5 sec. I'd say). Then I had to take it back apart, install the new and reassemble everything again. What should have been a 2 - 2.5 hr job took me about 7 hrs.
My suggestion, if you're in a area where they use salt on the roads and you have a higher mileage vehicle let a shop do this job unless you have access to a full size lift where you can really pull down on the old shaft.
Glad it's done though.
BTW, the big rubber donut between the tranny output flange and the driveshaft looked to be in fine shape and is quite stout, I did not replace it.
Most of the project wasn't too bad but that rear shaft "coupling" into the rear diff. input just didn't want to let go, I banged, pulled, pried every way I could think of to get that thing to break free (about 3 hrs. worth of cussing at it), finally did as another RL'er did and put it back (somewhat) together, lowered the rear on it's wheels and raised the front wheels off the floor and used the engine to break it loose. It worked (less than 5 sec. I'd say). Then I had to take it back apart, install the new and reassemble everything again. What should have been a 2 - 2.5 hr job took me about 7 hrs.
My suggestion, if you're in a area where they use salt on the roads and you have a higher mileage vehicle let a shop do this job unless you have access to a full size lift where you can really pull down on the old shaft.
Glad it's done though.
BTW, the big rubber donut between the tranny output flange and the driveshaft looked to be in fine shape and is quite stout, I did not replace it.
04-15-2013, 02:34 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
horrible banging sound (only on full throttle or repetitive bumps and medium throttle) started yesterday on '06 CTTS at 166,600. I suspect this shaft. i'll know soon.
