You guys have scared the bejebus out of me...
#61
Burning Brakes
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Shawn, 9k mile pig in San Antonio Texas 29k........2003 CS. The true beta model............
http://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/2114105692.html
2003 Porsche Cayenne S
Price: 29980
Mileage: 8500
Stock No: A60638BH
Vin: WP1AB29P13LA60638
Engine: 4#5L #275# DOHC aluminum water-cooled 32-valve 8-cyl engine
Transmission: Automatic
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
you can ping a porsche dealer to see the TSBs or work thats been done it.
http://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/2114105692.html
2003 Porsche Cayenne S
Price: 29980
Mileage: 8500
Stock No: A60638BH
Vin: WP1AB29P13LA60638
Engine: 4#5L #275# DOHC aluminum water-cooled 32-valve 8-cyl engine
Transmission: Automatic
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
you can ping a porsche dealer to see the TSBs or work thats been done it.
#63
Race Director
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Personally I'd stay away from that one. Not enough miles on it to have fixed all the potential issues and no warranty left to cover them when they do pop up.
#64
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Shawn, Live in Havertown, just south of Philly. Have an 06S bought CPO from the local dealer with 45K miles. Love my truck, the only issue I have is the brakes are loud. Have new pads in my office the EBC made for me(I ama director at a major automotive parts and service company) If you want to go for a ride in mine let me know if you are in town. I had a 2010 V6 loaner when I had my brakes checked(they are just loud) and my 06 S is a faster car and more fun to drive. You need to drive them both before you make a decision.
I've decided to widen my net at the bottom. My thinking is that if I'm likely to be putting chunks of change into the car, I might as well spend as little up front as possible. I found an '04 CS with 80k for $17. Even if I end up putting $5k into it, I'm still ahead of buying one for $30k and putting nothing into it.
#65
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Appreciated. I've already driven an S, need to try a V6. I know the V6 is the less troublesome engine, but the power in the CS I drove was nice. At this point, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a CS without driving the V6 if the right deal came along; I probably wouldn't feel the same if the reverse was true.
I noticed that there are Turbos at the top of my price range. Other than speed and looks, what are the plusses? What are the minusses? Can they tow?
I noticed that there are Turbos at the top of my price range. Other than speed and looks, what are the plusses? What are the minusses? Can they tow?
Of course there is also the 450HP twin turbo motor that tows GREAT!! No more unreliable than the CS and in some cases will actually get better mileage. (and in some cases worse)
#66
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Not to rain on anyone's parade, but the high mileage on these cars scare me. I have owned a Chevy Tahoe which is a great tow machine; cheaper upfront; and cheaper to maintain for over ten years. I am not down on the Cayenne, in fact I just bought an 09 GTS last week, but the repairs etc will kill you...Just my thoughts...GR
Last edited by GR997S; 01-25-2011 at 08:01 PM.
#67
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Shawn -- I can't say I agree with you logic. The idea that you are going to put 5k into the car so you will start out with a cheaper one ???
If you can get a CS for 30k with 31k on it -- you are dealing with a totally different animal than one with 80k on it for 17k.
Personally I would look for one with 50 - 60k on it. You can find these with most of the problems addressed -- The cars are in good shape and with this milage you can get lucky with all the maintenance items.
I would also go on the higher side on milage if price is a problem to get a CPO car from a dealer. You will own a car that you can drive out to 100k ......and have a pleasant ownership experience.
If you can get a CS for 30k with 31k on it -- you are dealing with a totally different animal than one with 80k on it for 17k.
Personally I would look for one with 50 - 60k on it. You can find these with most of the problems addressed -- The cars are in good shape and with this milage you can get lucky with all the maintenance items.
I would also go on the higher side on milage if price is a problem to get a CPO car from a dealer. You will own a car that you can drive out to 100k ......and have a pleasant ownership experience.
#68
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Personally I would look for one with 50 - 60k on it. You can find these with most of the problems addressed -- The cars are in good shape and with this milage you can get lucky with all the maintenance items. I would also go on the higher side on milage if price is a problem to get a CPO car from a dealer. You will own a car that you can drive out to 100k ......and have a pleasant ownership experience.
I can't say I agree with you logic. The idea that you are going to put 5k into the car so you will start out with a cheaper one ???
Code:
Car 1 Car 2 ----- ----- Year 2004 2006 Miles 70000 45000 Price 20000 25000 Wrnty 0 3000 ----- ----- Tot$ 20000 28000 Paym$ 380 540 Repr$ 2000 100 (Coolant Tubes) Repr$ 1500 100 (Cardan Shaft) ----- ----- Repr$ 3500 200 Loan$ 22800 32400 Tot$ 26300 32600
Of course, there will be stuff wearing out as time goes by, but if I put 70k miles on the car in five years, then I'm going to be at 140k and 115k, respectively. I'm going to hit 100k miles with either one, and that's when warranties expire and stuff starts wearing out. So no savings there.
#69
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So, it seems to me that if I get a higher mileage car and pay repair costs out of pocket, I'll save money up front and over the life of the loan.
I'm going to hit 100k miles with either one, and that's when warranties expire and stuff starts wearing out. So no savings there.
I'm going to hit 100k miles with either one, and that's when warranties expire and stuff starts wearing out. So no savings there.
My experience has been that most of my cars have been cheaper to maintain over 100k than they were below 100k. Most of the things that were going to wear out or break tend to happen earlier rather than later. Then they get replaced with updated parts and tend to have a longer service life. (not always, but most of the time.)
#70
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That's been my experience as well: I drove an '89 Taurus SHO out to 170k, and after about 110K - where I replaced pretty much everything in the suspension - it was trouble free (if increasingly tired) until the day I sold it.
#71
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Well -- I have owned a lot of cars an none of them drove as nice at 80K + as they did at 40K.
You left out resale and the CPO is no deductible -- if you want to get technical.
So your really at 4k on your model (at least) -- and thats with no additional warranty work in two years - thats not going to happen.
I'm not trying to argue with you -- but its not worth the 4k to take a two year older car with almost twice the milage and no coverage
You left out resale and the CPO is no deductible -- if you want to get technical.
So your really at 4k on your model (at least) -- and thats with no additional warranty work in two years - thats not going to happen.
I'm not trying to argue with you -- but its not worth the 4k to take a two year older car with almost twice the milage and no coverage
#72
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My Audi S4 drove better at 165k than it did at 40k. It's all in how you take care of it.
Passengers commented all the time that they could not believe the car had that many miles and looked and drove like a new car.
I think people start getting antsy when the miles go up. Then they start to neglect the car and start preparing their excuses to get a new one. Modern cars are very well built and should last a long time if maintained properly.
#73
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Resale is not a consideration. I drive cars until they're ready for the crusher or I give them away. I've given away five cars and dropped off another four at the junkyard.
A CPO is going to cost a hell of a lot more than $3k; I lowballed the hell out of that. Bumper-to-bumper is going to cost a thousands; either in the price of the car, or in the cost of an extended warranty. In my experience, most of the little niggling things that make a car annoying, but don't affect drivability, start to happen after the 100k miles mark, after which the CPO won't exist anyway.
and the CPO is no deductible -- if you want to get technical. So your really at 4k on your model (at least) -- and thats with no additional warranty work in two years - thats not going to happen.
#74
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Well I was in your shoes a few years back. I bought a '05 CS with 90000km's on it. I spent a lot of time on this website before hand researching and asking some questions, I received a mixed bag of answers but decided to buy one anyways. So in early 2009 I picked one up that I could afford despite the warnings of expensive repairs. Within the first 2 months I did the coils myself, no big deal I was expecting that issue. About a year later I replaced the wiper assembly after they seized up solid and did a lock mechanism on the driver door. Just shortly after that on a Saturday morning while backing out of my garage, a lovely red fluid appeared from under the vehicle. I knew what it was right away but, again, I was expecting the dreaded coolant pipes to go. I had the CS towed in and the coolant pipes replaced. O.K that should be the end of my big issues, I change the oil every 10000km's and take fantastic care of this vehicle. Low and behold in August 2010 i start the vehicle up to a massive banging, I quickly shut it down and again have it towed in. To my surprise I was told I had a bad lifter and that the motor should be replaced, I ended up selling the vehicle with full disclosure to someone for a massive loss. Now don't get me wrong, it was the best SUV I had ever driven and I absolutely loved it, but, unless you have a good buffer of cash for repairs I would stay away. Later on in life I will buy another one but only with warranty. I know have an FX45 and it serves its purpose but is not on the same level as a Cayenne. I ended up With the FX after talking to my mechanic, I was going to buy an X5 4.8 and was talking to him about what to get next. I asked him his thoughts on the X5 and then asked him whether I should get Japanese or German, his comment was "I have made my living for 15 years working on Germans and exotics and every vehicle in my driveway is Japanese". Needless to say that was enough for me. In closing, to me the CS was a great vehicle and I would buy one again, just make sure you're in the right demographic to afford it.
Last edited by tonga3; 01-26-2011 at 08:53 AM. Reason: Addition of info