Mark Brillo

Had the CTT-S checked at the dealership about 2 weeks ago.. CEL cleared (reset), then came back again today.. is this normal? CEL is not blinking, still gets full boost (up to 0,8 bar)

The previous issue was: Mechanical fault in EVAP canister purge valve (does not close fully) - Is this code something that can be "set" via durametric?

Also, would a durametric cable/software give a specific and/or detailed information of what's causing the CEL compared to using the OBD-II code reader in Autozone? Was hoping that this is the same issue as before (re: EVAP canister purge valve). I am deliberating if I need the durametric cable to reset this, or go to the dealership to reset (hopefully free of change - again), and go to autozone to read the code if I get the CEL again.

Thanks in advance...

jdcorbitt3

Did you replace the purge valve? If not, that is your problem. The Pelican parts forum has more info on it. as flr resetting codes, a $120 code checker from Advance Auto is what I use.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...p7hZElyc0QQJYw

John

mudman2

+1 easy job, there is a DIY somewhere

EnigmaWmn

My purge valve was replaced at least twice and was one of the CEL causes. So yeah, I'd just replace it.

Mark Brillo

thanks for all the info/responses.. i think this is the culprit.. i had two or three occasions where i had rough starts ('symptoms' mentioned on the pelican forum - thanks jdcorbitt3!) and was worried that it's due to the coil packs.

unfortunately, i am mechanically challenged and no tools to use.. in the diagrams, it seems like an easy fix but again, looking at the car's engine bay i have no idea where to start and i'm worried i can't put it all back in (in dis-assembling/assembling a desktop PC, i always end up having 1-2 extra screws not put back - but the PC works!)

so resetting the CEL (as previously done) didn't really fix it.. i assumed that this valve closing/opening is like a switch (0/1) to turn-off/on via the PIWIS.

Question: is it safe to still drive the car? will it cause any other problem (ot other components) if I continue to drive it?

mudman2

Not quite

The valve maintains pressure in the fuel system when the fuel cap is removed to add fuel. When its not working starting, especially after filling up can be a real issue although it will start eventually

The valve is basically a vacuum pipe with a mechanical non return valve. The pipes run down the top of the right cylinder bank to the rear of the engine, the valve is at the front. It comes pre assembled with new pipes

Mark Brillo

@ mudman2, can i buy just the valve? or as you've mentioned (comes pre-assemled with new pipes), which means the valve and the pipes (?). was looking at suncoastparts.com and didn't find this part..

anyone has the part number for this?

thank you all!!

mudman2

No its molded with the pipe unfortunately, i will post the PN

mudman2

DIY Instructions courtesy of Firehawk

you will need to remove the throttle design cover
pull up it comes right off. then you will need to remove the 4 t 30 torx screws on the drivers side coil cover.
then that cover will pull up.
Use a large flat blade screw driver or a penny to remove the 1/4 twist locks that hold down the drivers side engine compartment cover (the big black one) there should be 4 1/4 ttwists
Then remove the rearblack panel, 1 1/4 twist in the center and 2 on the pass side of it. Remove the panel
the purge valve is in the fron of the engine between the head and the intake on the drivers side .
Looks like a black cylinder little bit bigger then a film canister with a hose on one end to the front and the back is a hard black plastic line that runs along the intake and comes up in the back and goes to a rubber hose on the fire wall.
Un plug the valve and push it off its bracket, undo the clamp with a pair of plairs and pull the hose off (sometimes you need gently grab the hose with the pliars and twist to loosen it up from the valve, you can damage the valve just not the hose.
In the rear you will need to do the same, the rear hose never comes off easy I think they glue it on, use you pliars to crush the plastic line where the hose is over it. once it is crushed enough it will come off. The line is pushed into 2-3 gold clips along the intake, it will pull right out of them, You also may need to unplug the injectors on the drivers side bank just to make it easier to route.
Really I promise you its a lot easier then my 2 page explanation shows .


Part Number = 948 110 202 01

I did this using these instructions they are perfect

mudman2

Better link inc photos

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...41-error-code/

Mark Brillo

THANK YOU VERY MUCH mudman2!!! I'll order this part first, and go from there :-)

Mark Brillo

Since the instructions takes me to (almost) in the coils [EDIT: i guess not really, it's just taking out the throttle cover)], is it best to replace those with the updated coils? [EDIT: I'll ask to see how much the charge is to get the coils and plugs replaced] I'm thinking of replacing the plugs as well since I'm at it.. my wife though says just to take it to the dealership or a mechanic that knows this better than I am (had shown her the pics/illustration), I may cause some more problems than fixing this one. I'll see how this goes (DIY, or mechanic).

or, since the coils and plugs don't give me problems yet, do I just have this valve fixed? I was thinking that since they (either dealership or indie mech) are already there, would it save me money to have the coils and plugs replaced at the same time? or would the dealership would still charge me for separate labor hours for valve, then separate for coils and separate for plugs?

A bit of history: I got this car (06 CTT-S) with only the 20k oil change done in the porsche/maintenance book. It's not a CPO (not from a Porsche Dealership). As soon as I got it, I had the oil changed. Was advised to do the 40k miles service, but another dealership said that wait until I got to 40k miles then do that service (car is at 31k right now)

User 4221

Great writeup Mudman!

This thread should save many people the $300+ repair bill at the dealer.

Mark Brillo

just called the dealership.. it's from $220 to $270 repair (ouch!!)

Mark Brillo

are these the same part for Turbo-S, Turbo and non-turbo 955's? Got this from PorscheOEMParts.com