immacul8cs

we are not worthy

Slow Guy

Thanks for the info Porsche52. I wouldn't have done it before and now I definitely won't do it myself.

Renn 951

+1. Thanks for all the positive contributions to this forum, Porsche52 - it's great to have a "pig whisperer" hanging around!

Vino

Amen to that, Jeff Rocks!!

GT3 Racer

The Durametric 6.0 software measures ATF Temp in C.

Best money I ever spent while owning Porsches.

The_Rapid_1

I know this is an old post, but that is the best how to description I think I've ever seen
Thanks and well done.

Now as it is so old, I am holding out for a long shot that either Porsche52 is still around or if anyone else can answer me 1 (maybe 2 ish lol) question on the gearbox topping up procedure please.
Porsche52 said "Warm up transmission in lower load range. Switch all transmission ranges several times while doing so. (P,R,N,D 2nd and 1st)",
So does that mean using the off road switch on the left of the console and if so how many clicks, (I dont have the rear diff lock so only two forward clicks possible), if that is the way to do it, do you only do it in that position, IE the P<R N<D<2nd<1ST, and as it states 1st and 2nd I obviously have to put it into manual, so there is no attempt to try going any higher in manual like 3rd, or does the car not let you do that ?

Basically I have already done the oil and filter change a week ago and now would like to set the oil exactly, as when I did the change I DID misinterpret the instructions I was following, as in when they said warm up to operating temp, I had made sure I measured the temp when I pulled in to start the job and it was about 60 C, so thats where I set my level. Now after driving for a while (and only driving slowly) some changes are a bit clunky and juddery, especially if I race it a LITTLE bit in manual nipping out and round some roundabouts (done in rush hour traffic literally 4 roundabouts on the trot)) then back into slow auto driving.
So not only did I get the temp setting wrong (and can appreciate how with the oil expanding with heat I may be low in level now) , but didn't go into the manual gears, and certainly didn't go through any gears in low range (Porsche52 actually states Low LOAD not range so that is whats confusing me, whether he means low ratio range, or the lower gears only 1 and 2 in manual).settings.

So basically any info on what gears to cycle through in either high or low range ratio settings while hitting electronically read gear oil temp at 40 c.

Many Thanks
Steve

hopsis

Simple answer, it doesn't matter if You have low range toggled on or off. Low range is done outside the transmission. And when You cycle those gears, You're standing on the brakes so the wheels aren't moving anyway. You can cycle all the gears You can get but the manual gears won't do much with no speed impulse from output speed sensor so it's basically P, R, N, D, M1, M2. Low load is correct, do everything with engine idling and electric consumers and aircon off.

That 40C is also the correct temperature.

The_Rapid_1

Hi Hopsis,
Thanks for the reply, and sorry for the slow reply.
Anyway that all makes perfect sense, have now done it all as advised here, and car drives much smoother.
ALTHOUGH, while doing it on the scan tool I used there was an option to reset the throttle body. Now although I wasn't happy with some rough gear changes, I always had in the back of my mind it wasn't necessarily all gearbox, and the car felt jerky when touching the throttle and maybe confused about changing gear rather than all being the gearbox, so now I am thinking it was maybe more to do with the throttle body not giving the correct info the the brains of the car, anybody have any thoughts on this ? Also I seem to remember once when surfing the web there was a video or info on a way to reset the throttle body without a scan tool (I dont have access to the tool all the time), something about turning the car on with the pedal held down and maybe something else ???
I mention this because everyday for the last week the car has felt great to drive everyday, but yesterday MAYBE it seemed like it did some of its jerking again. Again any help or info greatly appreciated.
Oh and maybe one last cheeky ask, is there a way to reset the gearbox (to learn my driving style) from the "adjustments" (cant remember the correct word but know what i mean lol) it has learnt so far, WITHOUT a scan tool, as couldn't see anything in the tool I was using (some expensive Snap-on thing) but it did have force settings on it so must talk quite deep to the car, and I can get access to it again.
Thanks
Steve

jeff spahn

The jerkiness from your transmission is the valve body. It needs to be replaced. Should have done it when you had the pan off. Common issue with cayenne 955. RevMaxx is a popular supplier of a rebuilt (better) valve body. About $600 or so plus core charge. since you have changed your trans fluid before you were 95% there. Just do as before and just take out valve body and put in rebuilt one before you button it back up. Long needle nose pliers help getting the upper connector off.

I did it, wasn't bad. made a huge difference.

Klaird928

I have replaced the valve body in mine as well because of the jerking and super hard shifts. It can definitely be done. I did mine in my driveway. It is very simple to swap out the valve body. The hard part is putting the fluid back in. Just follow the previous instructions and everything will be fine. I have about 20000 on my swap and fluid change. I did not have the duremetric to check the temperature but I did use other means. I have had no issues.

quight

I've also done the revshift upgrade. About 50k kms on it and it's still silky.
one word of advice when doing any long interval fluid change: make sure you can loosen the fill plug before you drain the fluid. Nothing worse than getting it all apart and not being able to fill it again.

mtnrat

I have 100,000 km on my revmax valve body. Not a difficult job. Just messy. The durametric can show the tranny temp for getting the right level at 40 degees C.

The_Rapid_1

Hi all
Well ive been driving it for another week now, and all seems fine, think I was just imagining things or bumps in road I was mistaking for roughness, so for now I think I'll leave it as is, at least until im definite somethings not right lol.
Doing the oil change was easy in itself, WHEN you know what to do lol, so on that for future reference a few of you are saying you've done the valve body, so obviously I know what im looking at inside the box, but how do you actually go that last 5% and replace the valve body, is there any how to's or videos anywhere on it, or is it like just undo 4 bolts pull down and fit the new one in reverse lol.
And one last question you are all talking about a "Revshift" upgrade, I am actually in the UK, is there a UK equivalent you know of or does the Revshift ship to the UK ?

Thanks guys
Steve

Klaird928

Without a doubt the hardest part is adding the fluid but the second hardest part is holding the new valve body with one hand and trying to get the bolts started with the other. It is very obvious when you take the pan off what you have to do to swap out the valve body.

The_Rapid_1

And that is why I give a hand to someone else actually doing the work lol (my son, who is a mechanic).

Steve