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Emission CEL odd issue

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Old 08-15-2024, 02:09 AM
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Sunny955S
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Default Emission CEL odd issue

For a while now (few thousand miles) our 04 955 S has had a CEL on. I scanned it with the durametric a while ago and it was an emissions leak detected. If I remember right it was P 0455 or something, I’m not able to scan it till this weekend but I’m sure you call can help me out with these symptoms to confirm.
Car runs fine (it has all up to date on maintenance etc...) and just recently got a new fuel pumps and filter and lines in the tank and a new fuel cap.
The only 2 symptoms it has
1: ONLY ONCE during a longer trip we took it ran very poorly (like a coil pack failed, stumbling, idle rough, low power, but after a bit of driving it cleared up and is not repeatable.
2: When we fill the tank up and go to start it, she idles extremely poorly for a few seconds and sometimes dies and has to be started a few times, then clears up
No gas smells

my guess is that the emissions purge valve is stuck open and when we fill it up it forces all the gas fumed into the engine all at once or something? IDK!
I remember when I looked up the code a while back it was telling me to replace the valve at the front of the intake that has the hose that runs to the back under the intake.
from what i gather this is an issue with the Purge valve. So here is a big question
Is this 955-605-241-01 part for $50 bucks the same part as 948 110 202 01 but that is $190 aftermarket, the only thing i can tell is the hard line is not included. I would be fine with that if that is the case, i have fuel safe line i can use.

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by Sunny955S; 08-15-2024 at 02:31 AM.
Old 08-15-2024, 09:00 AM
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Petza914
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Purge valve is my guess as well
Old 08-15-2024, 12:12 PM
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Klaird928
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Definitely the purge valve. I replaced mine with a purge valve for a Camaro. I bought the connection with it and repinned the connection to use the original wires. I have never had another issue with starting.
Old 08-15-2024, 01:00 PM
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Jfrahm
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I would try cleaning it with carb cleaner and then dripping in some Marvel or spraying WD40 or something before replacing it. If you have a habit of topping off the gas tank, stop.
Old 08-16-2024, 01:20 AM
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Sunny955S
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[QUOTE=Jfrahm;19598411]No offense, but that's not good advice.

Last edited by Sunny955S; 08-16-2024 at 02:14 AM.
Old 08-16-2024, 09:37 AM
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Petza914
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[QUOTE=Sunny955S;19599414]
Originally Posted by Jfrahm
No offense, but that's not good advice.
Nice edit from your original response
Old 08-16-2024, 09:58 AM
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Sunny955S
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I'm trying to be nice, but im not interested in hacks and non reliable repairs in any way. If i wanted that type of advice i would just go to Facebook.
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Old 08-16-2024, 12:41 PM
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rechtien
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Originally Posted by Sunny955S
I'm trying to be nice, but im not interested in hacks and non reliable repairs in any way. If i wanted that type of advice i would just go to Facebook.

It is a perfectly fine repair. It exercises and lubricates the purgre valve. First tine i saw it was on UZ series toyota engines. Use a little 9v battery to exercises the valve a few times while spraying wd40. You can hear the audible click improve. Re-install. Good to go.

You did come here for advice, try not to shart on the advice given.
Old 08-16-2024, 12:53 PM
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Jfrahm
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Yes I have cleaned a lot of fuel injectors also. Idle control valves. Carburetors. No need to throw out a good OEM part because it has some grunge in it. If cleaning does not address the issue, then replace.
But some people only want validation for their own ideas, not helpful suggestions that might differ (not IMO a wise approach to life).

Old 08-16-2024, 03:14 PM
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Sunny955S
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If I was forced to spend $350 plus for the fix, I would try and fix it before replacing it. BUT the cost to replace it with a quality part and know I’m not going to have to deal with it again is not worth the few bucks at the $60 price point. and it would be great to know .. I’ll find out soon enough... if the part # 06D133517C Alternate 06D133517B, 95560524100, 95560524101 will also work. I do not care about the hard line. I have the ability to work around that.
I am not the person to be bothered with "bad advice" about using WD-40 as a lubricant.... it’s a solvent that is to prevent moisture, it turns gummy and collects and traps debris more than others. it’s just bad advice to use that junk. I do appreciate the effort though. Sorry if I come across as a stern or cross, and I would have prefixed my OP with that for context that I’m not looking to try and "fix" it with some solvent. If this was my 85 Honda accord I would do that but the cayenne still has a robustness I’m trying to preserve as the most reliable car I have ever owned and the cheapest regardless or part swaps vs. fixing existing.
Back when I fixed the other purge solenoid or whatever it’s called (the Y looking POS in the back of the intake) I cut the hard line. So I am more than happy to patch in a new valve with some soft line fuel rated without taking things apart to do this repair.
I'm also a firm believer in doing things correctly or an improvement like actually sending my injectors out to be professionally cycle cleaned and flow benched vs some snake oil in tank waste of $.
I did not mean any harm by what i said, i am sorry for that, my bad.
I do have a pulse modulator and a ultra sonic cleaner, maybe ill eat my words here and put it though a bath of Lacquer thinner or seafoam. IDK but you do have me thinking, but for sure im not going to use wd-40, that part just threw me off your advice because to me its a red flag signal that so many other BAD ADVICE SHADE TREE HACKS say about so many thing.
a $29 swap would be amazing.
Purge Valve (A8 Q7 CC Passat Phaeton Touareg Cayenne, N80)
Old 08-16-2024, 04:00 PM
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If you are concerned about the cost of a part it stands to reason that saving all the cost of the part with a simple cleaning would make sense. But whatever. In these days of cheap counterfeit and knockoff parts I trust the factory part that came on the car as far as is practicable. The similar part on my S8 is fine at 145K and the one on my A8 lasted at least until I sold the car at 200K.

Liking or not liking WD40 seems to be a religious issue. I have not found it to get gummy or to attract debris more than any other product I might spray on my lathe. In this instance I suggest it as a friendly way to get a stronger cleaning solvent washed off the part. Unlike a fuel injector there isn't a liquid flowing through to clear out the Seafoam, which might be OK but I've left WD40 on and in stored fuel injectors for years without trouble so I have experience that suggests it's a reasonable thing to do.
In the 928 world WD40 is the historically suggested spray to clean the IAC (air valve for idle control), which is wedged under the intake and not easily serviceable. So it sounds like an OK choice for a canister purge valve.

The company asserts WD40 is a lubricant:
https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
At any rate do as you like, but suggestions you don't like are not necessarily bad suggestions. Particularly if they are based on your misunderstandings about the chemicals involved.
I also have an ultrasonic cleaner, it's IMO a fine idea to try to use it to clean this valve.
Cheers, -Joel.
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Old 08-16-2024, 04:36 PM
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While DW40 "is a lubricant" because it does lubricate things,using WD-40 on a job that specifically needs lubrication will not yield the results desired or required.
Will it lubricate a dry erase sponge to remove a stuff on a car... YES but so will other things.
Look i honestly DNGAS what you use it on. I'm not going to debate this further, not why im here. Thanks for the input but it still is a red flag.
Old 08-17-2024, 05:06 PM
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JUST LIKE I THOUGHT
complete waste of time to try and revive it.
i can blow air though it going both ways. even after 20 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner, what the problem is that the mechanics of it are trashed. Im ordering the bosch part and the correct harness adapter.
If its a leak, then there is no chance of salvaging this part.
it ohmed out at 21.9 so its still "good" but just frozen, i assume its rusted / oxidized from the moisture over 20+ years from the ethanol fuel fumes as they flash off first. I could hear it tick if i put it to my year but not enough.
I will cut it apart out of curiosity later.

Old 08-17-2024, 05:28 PM
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AND BTW, the exact BOSCH part number on the valve is 0280142398 but the exact replacement part is 0280142399, if you use this part number it has the correct wiring harness connection. Got it on rock auto for $43.43 shipped. cheapest place, some local stores have it for about $98.
Took a few minutes of searching and cross-referencing parts but there you have it. a direct replacement using some fuel safe line and ditching the hard line.
Old 08-18-2024, 11:19 AM
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